UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for The Thin Edge of the Wedge and move onto the right-hand line. Easy climbing up shelly pockets leads to a black wall below a ledge. Execute an interesting move, then a mantel onto the ledge above with a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start as for The Thin Edge of the Wedge and at the first shared bolt move right. Easy climbing up shelly pockets bring you to a black wall just below ledge. An interesting move allows a mantel onto the ledge and shared lower-off. Fr5 climbing to one tricky move.

FA. Marti Hallett 30/Oct/2016.

Ticklists

Portland

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Watchman

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)

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