33m. A good climb that takes a line of grooves and slabs just R of Map of the Problematique on the Main Level of Penmaenbach Quarry.

Follow Map past its first bolt then bear R to gain the groove. Follow it to a ledge with a small patch of poor rock above. Pass this carefully (bolt above can be clipped first) and make difficult moves to get established in the groove. Follow the groove with continuous interest to the upper slab. Finish more easily just R of the black streak. (14 BR, threadable 2 B lower off).

H. Walmsley, C. Calow 24/Nov/2016

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
fizzychewitt 15 May TR
michael burrows 15 May Lead O/S 70m rope required for this, we had a 60 so lowered to the escape old power off and abseiled from there
70m rope required for this, we had a 60 so lowered to the escape old power off and abseiled from there
geoff b 29 Apr Lead Interesting bridging & slabby climbing. Generously protected.
with The Forrest
Interesting bridging & slabby climbing. Generously protected.
with The Forrest
Haziebaby 19 Apr Lead β Best climb of the day. On limit of what I can climb . Sustained once into the groove. Lots of beta from Leo who onsited it with a fall. Buet views ????
Best climb of the day. On limit of what I can climb . Sustained once into the groove. Lots of beta from Leo who onsited it with a fall. Buet views ????
Hidden 28 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
RockWest 19 Aug, 2018 Lead
Arlo rogers 31 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Mark Reeves 6 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
pauline_chester 9 Mar, 2018 TR dog Awkward section at start and also at bulge midway up. Had to rest there, in the end, the way I did it was to put left hand on the horizontal hold and go up with right
Awkward section at start and also at bulge midway up. Had to rest there, in the end, the way I did it was to put left hand on the horizontal hold and go up with right
Angry old man 29 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Basil
with Basil
Basil 29 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
JackM92 15 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Whizzer 10 Aug, 2017 Lead Well named good route
Well named good route
Glyn Davidson 6 Jun, 2017 TR O/S Don't know what it was about this but I didn't enjoy it. Just didn't enjoy the moves. Felt more desperate than technical I guess? Not sure, can't quite put my finger on it.
with Dan77
Don't know what it was about this but I didn't enjoy it. Just didn't enjoy the moves. Felt more desperate than technical I guess? Not sure, can't quite put my finger on it.
with Dan77
Dan77 6 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2017 Lead
pauldrew 24 May, 2017 Lead
Dave Rumney 24 May, 2017 Lead
pete johnson 11 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Steve Long 11 May, 2017 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 15 Dec, 2016 2nd rpt Showing it of to Mark. Nice and sheltered here after feeling cold in the wind at Twll Mawr doing A Winter's Tale. Very pleasant climbing conditions. Fleece enough, jacket not needed.
with Mark Hounslea
Showing it of to Mark. Nice and sheltered here after feeling cold in the wind at Twll Mawr doing A Winter's Tale. Very pleasant climbing conditions. Fleece enough, jacket not needed.
with Mark Hounslea
harold walmsley 24 Nov, 2016 Lead RP First ascent. Done on a cold day! Hands felt numb at the top of the groove. Hot aches at base of upper slab and after lower off. Not sure of stars or grade. Probably couldn't do 6c in the conditions, Chris thought at least 6b+ but it may feel like 6b on a better day. The crux moves to gain the main groove are hard to work out. I already had a sequence in mind but couldn't do it in the cold and had to figure out a different way. I thought 2* for the sustained quality moves in the main groove but Chris thought only 1*. The patch of poor rock and easier climbing top and bottom detract only a little for me but more for him perhaps?
First ascent. Done on a cold day! Hands felt numb at the top of the groove. Hot aches at base of upper slab and after lower off. Not sure of stars or grade. Probably couldn't do 6c in the conditions, Chris thought at least 6b+ but it may feel like 6b on a better day. The crux moves to gain the main groove are hard to work out. I already had a sequence in mind but couldn't do it in the cold and had to figure out a different way. I thought 2* for the sustained quality moves in the main groove but Chris thought only 1*. The patch of poor rock and easier climbing top and bottom detract only a little for me but more for him perhaps?
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
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Not Set