Rockfax Description
A man-eater of a pitch that is bold and committing. The gear is rather amusing, but if you fall, the joke will very much be on you. Start at a flat ledge near the top of the grassy rake line, about 40m below the top. From just above an overlap, traverse right above the gaping abyss, peg, to reach the base of a vague tottering groove. Move up this, exiting leftwards onto better rock, and another peg (try not to snigger). Continue up the sustained but never-desperate wall to reach a deep break, and bury a bunch of cams here and finally feel safe. Move left and head up on some great bubbly rock to reach the blind left-facing groove which is followed to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An enjoyable and yet terrorfying outing up the top of red walls. Not a route for failing on!

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Tom Livingstone 09/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with John Orr
Hidden ??/2017 -
Steve Long 30/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Great pitch. smallish cam placement next to first peg

geoff b 30/Sep/16 2nd

A lovely warm up on a warm Autumnal day. Never too run out or too desperate at any point but lots of thoughtful climbing & enough gear when you needed it.

Alex Mason 08/Jan/16 Lead O/S

Great Wall climbing in places. A run-out feel in a lot of places. Steady E4. Akin to Blue Peter on North Stack. 2nd peg is in great nick!

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 08/Jan/16 2nd O/S

Fantastic wall, engaging from start to finish with some superb sequences, good to start reading rock again, such a subtle skill.

Twid Turner ??/2016 -
LRob ??/2016 Lead
Hidden ??/2016 -
WB 29/Nov/14 Lead

Was meant to be climbing left hand red wall, but started in the wrong place, so no wonder the description didn't match. Got completely lost took an 8m fall when a foot hold snapped. Eventually got to a ledge. Where Mark took over for the final groove of schittlegruber. Interesting...

markalmack 29/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Started up this, finished up Schittlegruber due to Wills poor reading skills! I lead p2. Was fully gripped at all times.

Hidden 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
pete johnson 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
datoon ??/2012 Lead O/S
with K
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
pete johnson 15/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/11 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 11/Oct/10 2nd
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
switch ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Leanne
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
lukea 01/Nov/03 TR O/S
with Al
Steve Crowe 27/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with KM
phardman 28/Oct/95 2nd

Scary traverse at start

Al Evans 06/Aug/78 2nd
with Jim Moran
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High E5
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