UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

28m.

Rockfax Description
Meander up the wall taking care with some fragile holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The route is at the left edge of the Quarryman Wall. It gives good climbing but some holds are fragile.

Approach by abseil (~33 m) from the belay station below the Combat Rock tunnel entrance. Abseil straight down the corner to a tree then bear R (looking in) down grooves to the starting ledge (solitary bolt).

Climb 2 m back up the groove then step R on to the wall and move R and up with difficulty (crux) to good holds on the L wall of a shallow corner. Move up on to the L rib and follow it until steps R lead to the ramp above the shallow corner. Follow a blocky crack then stride back L to the rib (care with flakes). Gain a square-cut handhold on the R and step R on the lip of the main overlap. Weave up the headwall to the lower off.

The crux can be avoided by an easier but looser line to the R. The route is then 6a/6a+.

Escape by reversing the Alcove approach (i.e. traverse L on ledges and flakes from the lower off to the ab point - easy but a quickdraw on rope hanging down from the Alcove stance and a red cam provide useful protection. The last person to lead the route can go all the way from the start to the Ab point in one pitch.

H. Walmsley, M. Hounslea 15/Dec/2016.

Ticklists

Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge! , All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6b & 6b+

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Route of Interest
The Rock Bottom Line P1

Grade: 6b ***
(Twll Mawr)

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