Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Summer 2022
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
A very important sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag.
A meandering excursion through the yellow steepness culminating in one of the best E6 pitches around.
1. 15m. 4c. The Moon pitch 1.
2. 30m. 5c.Traverse right under The Moon along cramped ledges to join The Cow. Follow the (Judas) Cow to the Moon/Cow belay.
3. 10m. 5b/c. Step down from the belay and reverse Creeping Lemma pitch 2 rightwards towards ledges atop the promontory. Belay on the traverse before the apex of the promontory and below an amazing golden groove left of Dogs of War.
4. 43m. 6a. (Direct). A magnificent pitch which can also be gained from the promontory of The Sind/Creeping Lemma. Very pumpy funky climbing. The rock is softish in places but protection is adequate providing a large rack is carried. Climb directly up the golden groove to two peg runners. Steep and committing moves (crux) leads to a spike and rest on the left. Continue up the slab/groove and finish direct past a precarious block to the top.
4a. 43m 6a. (Original description). Climb up, easy but dangerous, to an overlap 6m left of Dogs of War. Move left and go round the overlap. Move up an insecure groove on flakes and small fins, to two very poor pegs on the right. Carry on, on sloping holds, until a long reach back right, on good rock, to an inverted groove. This leads gingerly over a block to the top.
Stevie Haston, Ray Kay and Chris Dale, June 1986, pitch 2 climbed previously by Stevie Haston and Leigh McGinley 1981.Second ascent Craig Smith and Johnny Dawes 16/6/86.
Direct Start to pitch 4 by Mike Twid Turner and Louise Thomas 1990s.
1. 15m. 4c. The Moon pitch 1.
2. 30m. 5c.Traverse right under The Moon along cramped ledges to join The Cow. Follow the (Judas) Cow to the Moon/Cow belay.
3. 10m. 5b/c. Step down from the belay and reverse Creeping Lemma pitch 2 rightwards towards ledges atop the promontory. Belay on the traverse before the apex of the promontory and below an amazing golden groove left of Dogs of War.
4. 43m. 6a. (Direct). A magnificent pitch which can also be gained from the promontory of The Sind/Creeping Lemma. Very pumpy funky climbing. The rock is softish in places but protection is adequate providing a large rack is carried. Climb directly up the golden groove to two peg runners. Steep and committing moves (crux) leads to a spike and rest on the left. Continue up the slab/groove and finish direct past a precarious block to the top.
4a. 43m 6a. (Original description). Climb up, easy but dangerous, to an overlap 6m left of Dogs of War. Move left and go round the overlap. Move up an insecure groove on flakes and small fins, to two very poor pegs on the right. Carry on, on sloping holds, until a long reach back right, on good rock, to an inverted groove. This leads gingerly over a block to the top.
Stevie Haston, Ray Kay and Chris Dale, June 1986, pitch 2 climbed previously by Stevie Haston and Leigh McGinley 1981.Second ascent Craig Smith and Johnny Dawes 16/6/86.
Direct Start to pitch 4 by Mike Twid Turner and Louise Thomas 1990s.
Ticklists
Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , James' 2015 Summer.
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Route of Interest
Bar Fly
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)