Rockfax Description
Another cracking route and the easiest way out! Make a direct abseil to sloping ledges below the right-hand side of the wall.
1) 5a, 50m. Move up and left onto the grey wall, and traverse across this, rising slightly to pass below a tower. Moving into a groove to the left of the tower is steep and committing, but the climbing soon eases. Belay on blocks below the steep wall.
2) 5b, 24m. Traverse up and left across a break (soft sandy rock) to reach the slab and a change in the rock. Gain the sloping shelves on the left, usually on all fours, and wonder how to cross the 'gap'. Once across, The Moon belay is to your left.
3) 5c, 45m. Move left into the corner. Climb this to a slab and traverse left in a spectacular position (reverse parts of The Moon). At the end of the slab, undercut leftwards around a nose to the base of a loose section. Make your way carefully up the arete right of the rock scar as for The Castell Helen Girdle. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Steve Crowe 31/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

A great adventure

with KM
LBrown 14/Aug/17 AltLd

Shuffle shuffle. Didn't do top pitch. Did last pitch of the cow instead.

with Will
williap 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Led funky P2

with Liam
Misha 15/Jul/17 AltLd β

The epitome of trad ledge shuffling! Rich did P1 of The Sind to start (which I'd seconded earlier in the year as part of The Sins). He then led the P2 shuffle as well. Weird and tricky crux moves, I'd say 5c. I shuffled out on P3, steady but a bit worrying. I'd done the traverse going the other way as part of The Moon and the crux leftwards shuffle over the roof as part of Perygl (felt easier this time as just went straight for the side pulls rather than going up into the undercuts but still 5c). Carried on up P4 but the ropes jammed in a crack under a flake so had to downclimb from half way up P4 to sort them out before continuing. Fun route! Had time for another but the sea mist closed in.

Richard Kendrick 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Proper weird climbing/shuffling on the 2nd and 3rd pitch!

with Misha
BenRyle 31/May/17 Lead dnf

Got rained off before starting pitch 3, great first two (P1 of Sind) though! Especially second pitches crux.

with Philip (From Dresden)
Hidden 19/May/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/May/17 AltLd
Flavio 31/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Next time just ignore people when they ask you "what grade is this rock?" or "is this cliff good for abseiling?"

Hidden 31/Mar/17 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2017 -
Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
beagly77 ??/2017 -
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
joedean ??/2017 -
Ramon Marin 17/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 17/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

P2 and P4

with Ramon Marin
TomRiddelsdell 17/Sep/16 AltLd

I was feeling the pressure a little this being my first time at Gogarth and as an aspirant for the Climbers Club. I also don't make a habit of leading e2 very often. Lead pitch 1 which was pretty tame compared with the following 2 although finding protection is a little tricky with all the loose rock. The following pitches got much tougher with some mind blowing exposure. What an intro to the area!

Hidden 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Tom
harry_lewis 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Forgot how wild yellow walls is. With adventurous first pitch and led crux. Belayed in broken corner as we did it in four. Wouldn't recommend. Amazing route in all though with two crux moves, one committing and the other just plain wierd!

philhilo 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Baffled by the pitch grades. Started up 1st pitch of the Sind. Dave did 2nd '5b' pitch, seemed like hard 5c. I did top pitch which seemed like 5b, with the 'crux' being more like 5a?

with Dave rickerby
Rachel S 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Meant to start up the first pitch of the sind as recommended in the ground up guidebook but I abbed into the wrong place (used the wrong stakes at the top) so we only did the top 2 pitches. Odd experience to do the traverse pitch of the moon in reverse. Not sure which is harder but I defo thought this was scarier!

with Alison
Alison Cairns 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Missed out p1 (due to abbing in the wrong place). Rachel did P2 with the weird traverse move, then I got p3 - excellent committing moves across into the groove on the left. The finish felt a bit loose & run-up - I think some rock has fallen out of the corner.

Hidden 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
M_Robinson 12/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, so memorable! Led P2 The creeping bit proper had me going, good job I can fold up small!

Adam24B 12/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Lead 1+3, first pitch was well scary

Hidden ?/Jul/16 -
John Bunney 16/Jun/16 AltLd

We ran away! But will head back soon.

JamesWilliams 16/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

Pitch 1 of the Sind lead by bunny. Couldn't crack the crux of Pitch 2 so reversed back and abbed off due to it getting late and escaped up the last 2 pitches of the castell Helen girdle . Not quite an epic but close

Hidden 13/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
robpartridge 15/May/16 AltLd O/S
with Helen
jezb1 05/May/16 AltLd O/S

In 3, I did p2. Awesome route.

Mike Goldthorp 10/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Blissful sunny fun!

with Emma Twyford
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
tim newton 17/Oct/15 AltLd rpt
Rachel Slater 17/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, and crept.

Hidden 18/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
HAJ Francis ?/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
jiles 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Niels EW
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
ellis 21/Jun/14 AltLd

Paused to recover arms and confidence on crux of top pitch.

switch 21/Jun/14 AltLd
with Ellis
Rob Pitt 30/Apr/14 AltLd O/S


with Jo Bertalot
Neil ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Steve Long ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Steve Long ??/2014 -
Hidden 08/Sep/13 AltLd
The Grist 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Alan Barnes
tim newton 24/May/13 AltLd O/S
with rich gentry
Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd rpt
geoff b 05/May/13 Lead

Rich's first foray on to Yellow Walls; a good effort. I ended up leading the whole route as he couldn't suss out the step round the bulge.

with Reliable Rich
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
mark20 04/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Classic ledge shuffling

Alex Mason 23/Apr/13 2nd β

Had seconded P2 before. Led P2. Intention was to try yellow shark but the place was gopping!

with Callum Muskett
Adam Coles ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Did first pitch of Sind

Andrew Wilson 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S


Duncan Campbell 12/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led Pitch 2, though we abbed down to the belay shared with the sind from 5m climber's left of the Sind belay. A funky pitch with a cool crux. 3rd pitch is good with a hard section undercutting left. Hard E2?

with Farnsworth
C coldwell-storry 09/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Iron Mike
Pete Graham ?/May/12 AltLd
Martin Haworth 14/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Started up pitch 1 of Sind.Pitch 2 which John led felt as hard as pitch 3.

Brannock 14/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, Martin led pitch 1 up Synd and last pitch. Very Good route, *** None of the moves to desperate.

Liam FLeming 23/Mar/12 -
with stuart lade
Owain Llewelyn 15/Jan/12 AltLd
with Gareth E
Ollie B 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

P2, brilliant situations

with Fingers
Hidden ??/2012 -
geoff b 14/Aug/11 AltLd

What an interesting route. P1 wanders all over the face at an unbelievably easy grade but is dead tricky to protect for the 2nd (take 12 long slings). P2 is technical but well protected & P3 is a lovely finish.

Hidden 14/Aug/11 AltLd rpt
willoates 08/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

P2 harder crux moves than the moon, less sustained. all pitches were really good. repeat this

david morse 08/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

As good as the Moon, E2 if youre used to this wacky 3D style, maybe harder if not!

Owain Llewelyn 03/May/11 Lead

Brilliant, as good as The Moon. *****Beware of the vicious nesting gull at the stance, top of pitch 1 (3/5/11), apparently it has a very sharp beak! ******

with Dad
owenH ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Dave Rumney 22/Aug/10 AltLd
mike lawrence? 30/Jun/10 Lead

Found the 5b pitch harder than the 5c one. Fantastic climb.

with James the Navigator
centurion05 ??/2010 -
with dave g
nige 10/Sep/09 AltLd
with mark hounslea
Luke Brooks 09/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Francis
Glyn Davidson 19/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Ste pitch 1+3, me 2. Fantastic move around the corner. A great route. Well worth its stars :)

with Ste Davies
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2009 Lead

Tom particularly appreciated the traverse on the final pitch. In 2012 the final groove fell down (!), you now climb the arete to the right at a slightly higher standard (5a)

with Tom Ripley
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
pauldrew 20/Jun/08 Lead

Pitch 2, started up Sind and finished up The Moon

Brown 08/Jun/08 AltLd

Pitch up to Moon belay

with Ralph
Al Evans ??/2008 -
mux ?/Oct/07 AltLd
with Dave Almond
cem 29/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Led p 1 & 3

GuyM ??/2006 AltLd
with will
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 30/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
with Nic Sellers
WB 01/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden ??/2004 AltLd
Rich Kirby ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Hugh
Hidden ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
NeilGriffiths 13/May/01 AltLd
with Jim Burton, Adrian Pedley
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2000 2nd
pete johnson 17/Oct/99 AltLd O/S
with Dave Wills
Hidden 02/May/98 AltLd
Hidden 02/May/98 AltLd
Hidden 02/May/98 AltLd
Andy Edgar ??/1998 AltLd
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
crossleysm ??/1997 AltLd
PaulTanton ?/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
with Dave Taylor
Cowflinger ?/May/95 AltLd O/S
with Tim Emmett
frost ?/Aug/93 AltLd
pauldrew ??/1991 AltLd

Some time in early 90's

with Andy Croft
Hidden 20/May/90 Lead
michael burrows 08/Apr/90 AltLd O/S

and brian, led 3rd pitch

with ket
Seymore Butt ??/1990 AltLd
with Spuz
Hidden 18/Sep/88 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/87 AltLd
charlesmfrench 24/May/87 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 29/May/83 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1983 Lead O/S
with Neil MacCadie
Neil McA 21/Jun/82 AltLd O/S

Brilliant ledge shuffling. A must do. We didn't ab in until 8:30pm. nice evening light.

with Smeg
mikej 25/Sep/81 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Hidden ?/Apr/81 AltLd O/S
barny ??/1981 2nd


with Chris Massey
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Mick Tolley
duncan ?/Oct/80 AltLd O/S
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1977 2nd
with John Bogg
Steve Lewis 04/Sep/76 AltLd O/S
with Martin Crook, sharpie
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High E3
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Low E3
High E2
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Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
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High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 23
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