Rockfax Description
Another cracking route and the easiest way out! Make a direct abseil to sloping ledges below the right-hand side of the wall.
1) 5a, 50m. Move up and left onto the grey wall, and traverse across this, rising slightly to pass below a tower. Moving into a groove to the left of the tower is steep and committing, but the climbing soon eases. Belay on blocks below the steep wall.
2) 5b, 24m. Traverse up and left across a break (soft sandy rock) to reach the slab and a change in the rock. Gain the sloping shelves on the left, usually on all fours, and wonder how to cross the 'gap'. Once across, The Moon belay is to your left.
3) 5c, 45m. Move left into the corner. Climb this to a slab and traverse left in a spectacular position (reverse parts of The Moon). At the end of the slab, undercut leftwards around a nose to the base of a loose section. Make your way carefully up the arete right of the rock scar as for The Castell Helen Girdle. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
LucaC 23 Aug AltLd O/S
with Dan
with Dan
Lenny 15 Aug AltLd O/S Sind start
with Liam
Sind start
with Liam
morganator 26 Jul AltLd O/S Great route. Did P1 of the Sind to access it
Great route. Did P1 of the Sind to access it
Martin Cooper 26 Jul AltLd
Hidden 24 Jun AltLd O/S
murray 24 Jun AltLd O/S "The move" on the second pitch had me stumped for a while, and the exposure is absolutely bonkers!
"The move" on the second pitch had me stumped for a while, and the exposure is absolutely bonkers!
Barry Harper 15 Jun AltLd O/S Pitch 2. Eventually used the flake up high that I thought might break off. Turned out to be ok. Bit of a tricky move for 5b I thought.
Pitch 2. Eventually used the flake up high that I thought might break off. Turned out to be ok. Bit of a tricky move for 5b I thought.
BC 6 Jun AltLd O/S P1 and p3. Hard to see where the 5c moves. A proper adventure across the zawn!
P1 and p3. Hard to see where the 5c moves. A proper adventure across the zawn!
John sealey 12 May AltLd O/S
with Dave Garry
with Dave Garry
Bristol_Quornstar 6 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Cracking outing with Stanners. Man I'm glad we don't have to relive that anytime soon!!!
Cracking outing with Stanners. Man I'm glad we don't have to relive that anytime soon!!!
Stanners 6 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Pitch 1 and 3. Pitches 2 and 3 were totally epic good climbing, but I may of been traversing too high on pitch 1 as it was feeling extremely dodgy at E3 5a/5b territory! Bonkers. Classic day out adventuring with mr Rhodes. (can see why lots do pitch 1 of the sind, very serious 1st pitch hard to route find)
Pitch 1 and 3. Pitches 2 and 3 were totally epic good climbing, but I may of been traversing too high on pitch 1 as it was feeling extremely dodgy at E3 5a/5b territory! Bonkers. Classic day out adventuring with mr Rhodes. (can see why lots do pitch 1 of the sind, very serious 1st pitch hard to route find)
Leo Woodhead 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S What a fun route, led pitches 1 and 3 - on the crux of pitch 2 (on second), I found myself on all fours, desperately seeking the blind holds. So much fun!
with Joe Hook
What a fun route, led pitches 1 and 3 - on the crux of pitch 2 (on second), I found myself on all fours, desperately seeking the blind holds. So much fun!
with Joe Hook
08nbrierley 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S Lead last pitch.
with Pete Cuthill, Jack
Lead last pitch.
with Pete Cuthill, Jack
Hidden 29 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
adamre12 28 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S P1 + 3. Absolutely amazing route, one of the best I've done at gogarth. P2 was the crux for me. P3 is easy enough if you commit.
with Sophie
P1 + 3. Absolutely amazing route, one of the best I've done at gogarth. P2 was the crux for me. P3 is easy enough if you commit.
with Sophie
Sophie Nunn 28 Apr, 2018 AltLd P2&4
P2&4
Hidden 21 Apr, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 25 Mar, 2018 2nd dog
markalmack 25 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S
with josh
with josh
benrhyd 25 Mar, 2018 AltLd dog Led p1 of the sind, dad led the rest. Struggled with the hard step across on p3 and ended up coming off.
with Vito, Adam Haynes
Led p1 of the sind, dad led the rest. Struggled with the hard step across on p3 and ended up coming off.
with Vito, Adam Haynes
Steve Crowe 31 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S A great adventure
with karin
A great adventure
with karin
LBrown 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd Shuffle shuffle. Didn't do top pitch. Did last pitch of the cow instead.
with Will
Shuffle shuffle. Didn't do top pitch. Did last pitch of the cow instead.
with Will
williap 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Led funky P2
with LBrown
Led funky P2
with LBrown
Misha 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd β The epitome of trad ledge shuffling! Rich did P1 of The Sind to start (which I'd seconded earlier in the year as part of The Sins). He then led the P2 shuffle as well. Weird and tricky crux moves, I'd say 5c. I shuffled out on P3, steady but a bit worrying. I'd done the traverse going the other way as part of The Moon and the crux leftwards shuffle over the roof as part of Perygl (felt easier this time as just went straight for the side pulls rather than going up into the undercuts but still 5c). Carried on up P4 but the ropes jammed in a crack under a flake so had to downclimb from half way up P4 to sort them out before continuing. Fun route! Had time for another but the sea mist closed in.
The epitome of trad ledge shuffling! Rich did P1 of The Sind to start (which I'd seconded earlier in the year as part of The Sins). He then led the P2 shuffle as well. Weird and tricky crux moves, I'd say 5c. I shuffled out on P3, steady but a bit worrying. I'd done the traverse going the other way as part of The Moon and the crux leftwards shuffle over the roof as part of Perygl (felt easier this time as just went straight for the side pulls rather than going up into the undercuts but still 5c). Carried on up P4 but the ropes jammed in a crack under a flake so had to downclimb from half way up P4 to sort them out before continuing. Fun route! Had time for another but the sea mist closed in.
Richard Kendrick 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Proper weird climbing/shuffling on the 2nd and 3rd pitch!
with Misha
Proper weird climbing/shuffling on the 2nd and 3rd pitch!
with Misha
BenRyle 31 May, 2017 Lead dnf Got rained off before starting pitch 3, great first two (P1 of Sind) though! Especially second pitches crux.
with Philip (From Dresden)
Got rained off before starting pitch 3, great first two (P1 of Sind) though! Especially second pitches crux.
with Philip (From Dresden)
Hidden 19 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 May, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 7 May, 2017 AltLd
Flavio 31 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Next time just ignore people when they ask you "what grade is this rock?" or "is this cliff good for abseiling?"
Next time just ignore people when they ask you "what grade is this rock?" or "is this cliff good for abseiling?"
JendeHoxar 31 Mar, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Frank the Husky ??, 2017 -
beagly77 ??, 2017 -
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
joedean ??, 2017 -
Ramon Marin 17 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Tom Livingstone
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 17 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S P2 and P4
with Ramon Marin
P2 and P4
with Ramon Marin
TomRiddelsdell 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd I was feeling the pressure a little this being my first time at Gogarth and as an aspirant for the Climbers Club. I also don't make a habit of leading e2 very often. Lead pitch 1 which was pretty tame compared with the following 2 although finding protection is a little tricky with all the loose rock. The following pitches got much tougher with some mind blowing exposure. What an intro to the area!
I was feeling the pressure a little this being my first time at Gogarth and as an aspirant for the Climbers Club. I also don't make a habit of leading e2 very often. Lead pitch 1 which was pretty tame compared with the following 2 although finding protection is a little tricky with all the loose rock. The following pitches got much tougher with some mind blowing exposure. What an intro to the area!
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Abi Chard 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 31 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 31 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Forgot how wild yellow walls is. With adventurous first pitch and led crux. Belayed in broken corner as we did it in four. Wouldn't recommend. Amazing route in all though with two crux moves, one committing and the other just plain wierd!
Forgot how wild yellow walls is. With adventurous first pitch and led crux. Belayed in broken corner as we did it in four. Wouldn't recommend. Amazing route in all though with two crux moves, one committing and the other just plain wierd!
philhilo 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Baffled by the pitch grades. Started up 1st pitch of the Sind. Dave did 2nd '5b' pitch, seemed like hard 5c. I did top pitch which seemed like 5b, with the 'crux' being more like 5a?
with Dave rickerby
Baffled by the pitch grades. Started up 1st pitch of the Sind. Dave did 2nd '5b' pitch, seemed like hard 5c. I did top pitch which seemed like 5b, with the 'crux' being more like 5a?
with Dave rickerby
Rachel S 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Meant to start up the first pitch of the sind as recommended in the ground up guidebook but I abbed into the wrong place (used the wrong stakes at the top) so we only did the top 2 pitches. Odd experience to do the traverse pitch of the moon in reverse. Not sure which is harder but I defo thought this was scarier!
Meant to start up the first pitch of the sind as recommended in the ground up guidebook but I abbed into the wrong place (used the wrong stakes at the top) so we only did the top 2 pitches. Odd experience to do the traverse pitch of the moon in reverse. Not sure which is harder but I defo thought this was scarier!
Alison Cairns 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Missed out p1 (due to abbing in the wrong place). Rachel did P2 with the weird traverse move, then I got p3 - excellent committing moves across into the groove on the left. The finish felt a bit loose & run-up - I think some rock has fallen out of the corner.
Missed out p1 (due to abbing in the wrong place). Rachel did P2 with the weird traverse move, then I got p3 - excellent committing moves across into the groove on the left. The finish felt a bit loose & run-up - I think some rock has fallen out of the corner.
JendeHoxar 13 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ed F
with Ed F
Hidden 13 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
M_Robinson 12 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Brilliant route, so memorable! Led P2 The creeping bit proper had me going, good job I can fold up small!
with Adam24B
Brilliant route, so memorable! Led P2 The creeping bit proper had me going, good job I can fold up small!
with Adam24B
Adam24B 12 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead 1+3, first pitch was well scary
Lead 1+3, first pitch was well scary
Malcolm Bass ?Jul, 2016 AltLd
with geezer
with geezer
Hidden ?Jul, 2016 -
John Bunney 16 Jun, 2016 AltLd We ran away! But will head back soon.
We ran away! But will head back soon.
JamesWilliams 16 Jun, 2016 AltLd dnf Pitch 1 of the Sind lead by bunny. Couldn't crack the crux of Pitch 2 so reversed back and abbed off due to it getting late and escaped up the last 2 pitches of the castell Helen girdle . Not quite an epic but close
Pitch 1 of the Sind lead by bunny. Couldn't crack the crux of Pitch 2 so reversed back and abbed off due to it getting late and escaped up the last 2 pitches of the castell Helen girdle . Not quite an epic but close
Hidden 13 Jun, 2016 AltLd rpt
robpartridge 15 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Helen
with Helen
jezb1 5 May, 2016 AltLd O/S In 3, I did p2. Awesome route.
In 3, I did p2. Awesome route.
Mike Goldthorp 10 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S Blissful sunny fun!
with Emma Twyford
Blissful sunny fun!
with Emma Twyford
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
tim newton 17 Oct, 2015 AltLd rpt
Rachel Slater 17 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P2, and crept.
with IainAM
Lead P2, and crept.
with IainAM
Hidden 18 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
HAJ Francis ?Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 -
jiles 13 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Niels EW
with Niels EW
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
ellis 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd Paused to recover arms and confidence on crux of top pitch.
Paused to recover arms and confidence on crux of top pitch.
Si Witcher 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with ellis
with ellis
Rob Pitt 30 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S p2
with Jo Bertalot
p2
with Jo Bertalot
Neil ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
Steve Long ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Steve Long ??, 2014 -
Hidden 8 Sep, 2013 AltLd
The Grist 9 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Alan Barnes
with Alan Barnes
tim newton 24 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
with rich gentry
with rich gentry
Hidden 6 May, 2013 AltLd rpt
geoff b 5 May, 2013 Lead Rich's first foray on to Yellow Walls; a good effort. I ended up leading the whole route as he couldn't suss out the step round the bulge.
with Reliable Rich
Rich's first foray on to Yellow Walls; a good effort. I ended up leading the whole route as he couldn't suss out the step round the bulge.
with Reliable Rich
Hidden 4 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
mark20 4 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2. Classic ledge shuffling
Led P2. Classic ledge shuffling
Alex Mason 23 Apr, 2013 2nd β Had seconded P2 before. Led P2. Intention was to try yellow shark but the place was gopping!
with Callum Muskett
Had seconded P2 before. Led P2. Intention was to try yellow shark but the place was gopping!
with Callum Muskett
Adam Coles ?Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Did first pitch of Sind
Did first pitch of Sind
Andrew Wilson 26 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S p2
p2
Duncan Campbell 12 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Led Pitch 2, though we abbed down to the belay shared with the sind from 5m climber's left of the Sind belay. A funky pitch with a cool crux. 3rd pitch is good with a hard section undercutting left. Hard E2?
with Farnsworth
Led Pitch 2, though we abbed down to the belay shared with the sind from 5m climber's left of the Sind belay. A funky pitch with a cool crux. 3rd pitch is good with a hard section undercutting left. Hard E2?
with Farnsworth
C coldwell-storry 9 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Iron Mike
with Iron Mike
Pete Graham ?May, 2012 AltLd
with malx
with malx
Martin Haworth 14 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Started up pitch 1 of Sind.Pitch 2 which John led felt as hard as pitch 3.
Started up pitch 1 of Sind.Pitch 2 which John led felt as hard as pitch 3.
Brannock 14 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2, Martin led pitch 1 up Synd and last pitch. Very Good route, *** None of the moves to desperate.
Lead pitch 2, Martin led pitch 1 up Synd and last pitch. Very Good route, *** None of the moves to desperate.
Liam FLeming 23 Mar, 2012 -
with stuart lade
with stuart lade
Owain Llewelyn 15 Jan, 2012 AltLd
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
Ollie B 14 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S P2, brilliant situations
with Fingers
P2, brilliant situations
with Fingers
Hidden ??, 2012 -
geoff b 14 Aug, 2011 AltLd What an interesting route. P1 wanders all over the face at an unbelievably easy grade but is dead tricky to protect for the 2nd (take 12 long slings). P2 is technical but well protected & P3 is a lovely finish.
What an interesting route. P1 wanders all over the face at an unbelievably easy grade but is dead tricky to protect for the 2nd (take 12 long slings). P2 is technical but well protected & P3 is a lovely finish.
MikePycroft 14 Aug, 2011 AltLd rpt Led p1 wild but not to hard P2 felt easier followed Geof in going high led p3 ackward but found good shoulder jam on crux
with geoff b
Led p1 wild but not to hard P2 felt easier followed Geof in going high led p3 ackward but found good shoulder jam on crux
with geoff b
willoates 8 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S P2 harder crux moves than the moon, less sustained. all pitches were really good. repeat this
P2 harder crux moves than the moon, less sustained. all pitches were really good. repeat this
david morse 8 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S As good as the Moon, E2 if youre used to this wacky 3D style, maybe harder if not!
As good as the Moon, E2 if youre used to this wacky 3D style, maybe harder if not!
Owain Llewelyn 3 May, 2011 Lead Brilliant, as good as The Moon. *****Beware of the vicious nesting gull at the stance, top of pitch 1 (3/5/11), apparently it has a very sharp beak! ******
with Dad
Brilliant, as good as The Moon. *****Beware of the vicious nesting gull at the stance, top of pitch 1 (3/5/11), apparently it has a very sharp beak! ******
with Dad
owenH ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Dave Rumney 22 Aug, 2010 AltLd
mike lawrence? 30 Jun, 2010 Lead Found the 5b pitch harder than the 5c one. Fantastic climb.
with James the Navigator
Found the 5b pitch harder than the 5c one. Fantastic climb.
with James the Navigator
centurion05 ??, 2010 -
with dave g
with dave g
nige 10 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Luke Brooks 9 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Francis
with Francis
Glyn Davidson 19 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S Ste pitch 1+3, me 2. Fantastic move around the corner. A great route. Well worth its stars :)
with Ste Davies
Ste pitch 1+3, me 2. Fantastic move around the corner. A great route. Well worth its stars :)
with Ste Davies
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2009 Lead Tom particularly appreciated the traverse on the final pitch. In 2012 the final groove fell down (!), you now climb the arete to the right at a slightly higher standard (5a)
with Tom Ripley
Tom particularly appreciated the traverse on the final pitch. In 2012 the final groove fell down (!), you now climb the arete to the right at a slightly higher standard (5a)
with Tom Ripley
Hidden ??, 2009 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
pauldrew 20 Jun, 2008 Lead Pitch 2, started up Sind and finished up The Moon
Pitch 2, started up Sind and finished up The Moon
Brown 8 Jun, 2008 AltLd Pitch up to Moon belay
with Ralph
Pitch up to Moon belay
with Ralph
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
mux ?Oct, 2007 AltLd
with Dave Almond
with Dave Almond
cem 29 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S Led p 1 & 3
with GrahamD
Led p 1 & 3
with GrahamD
Sut 22 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
GuyM ??, 2006 AltLd
with WB
with WB
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Tom Briggs 30 Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Nic Sellers
with Nic Sellers
WB 1 Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
with GuyM
with GuyM
Hidden ??, 2004 AltLd
Kev Little ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby ?Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2002 Lead
NeilGriffiths 13 May, 2001 AltLd
with Jim Burton, Adrian Pedley
with Jim Burton, Adrian Pedley
zero six ??, 2000 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??, 2000 2nd
pete johnson 17 Oct, 1999 AltLd O/S
with Dave Wills
with Dave Wills
steveb2006 2 May, 1998 AltLd Finish up The Moon due to a slow team on final pitch of Creeping Lemma-good combination. I pitch 2
Finish up The Moon due to a slow team on final pitch of Creeping Lemma-good combination. I pitch 2
MikePycroft 2 May, 1998 AltLd
MikePycroft 2 May, 1998 AltLd
Andy Edgar ??, 1998 AltLd
Ched ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
crossleysm ??, 1997 AltLd
PaulTanton ?Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Dave Taylor
with Dave Taylor
Cowflinger ?May, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Tim Emmett
with Tim Emmett
frost ?Aug, 1993 AltLd
with Steve Boote
with Steve Boote
pauldrew ??, 1991 AltLd Some time in early 90's
with Andy Croft
Some time in early 90's
with Andy Croft
steveb2006 20 May, 1990 Lead Success after a previous epic and long retreat. Lead all pitches. Good route
with Mervyn Dudley
Success after a previous epic and long retreat. Lead all pitches. Good route
with Mervyn Dudley
Brian Wilderspin 15 Apr, 1990 AltLd O/S
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
michael burrows 8 Apr, 1990 AltLd O/S and brian, led 3rd pitch
with ket
and brian, led 3rd pitch
with ket
Seymore Butt ??, 1990 AltLd
with Spuz
with Spuz
steveb2006 18 Sep, 1988 AltLd dnf A late start (after doing Big Groove). Cant get round the crux on 2nd pitch. 6pm. Long descent to sea level and traverse south in evening gloom to a tunnel and eventual long precarious scramble out in near darkness. 7.15 on top.
with Chris Grafton
A late start (after doing Big Groove). Cant get round the crux on 2nd pitch. 6pm. Long descent to sea level and traverse south in evening gloom to a tunnel and eventual long precarious scramble out in near darkness. 7.15 on top.
with Chris Grafton
Hidden ??, 1988 AltLd rpt
Hidden 16 Aug, 1987 AltLd
charlesmfrench 24 May, 1987 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
Hidden 29 May, 1983 AltLd
Ian Jones ??, 1983 Lead O/S
with Neil MacCadie
with Neil MacCadie
Neil McA 21 Jun, 1982 AltLd O/S Brilliant ledge shuffling. A must do. We didn't ab in until 8:30pm. nice evening light.
with Ian Jones
Brilliant ledge shuffling. A must do. We didn't ab in until 8:30pm. nice evening light.
with Ian Jones
mikej 25 Sep, 1981 AltLd
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Hidden ?Apr, 1981 AltLd O/S
barny ??, 1981 2nd Wow.
with Chris Massey
Wow.
with Chris Massey
cenotaphcorner ??, 1981 AltLd O/S
with David Stainthorpe
with David Stainthorpe
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
duncan ?Oct, 1980 AltLd O/S
Rick51 26 Jul, 1979 2nd Used a peg on last pitch
Used a peg on last pitch
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1977 2nd
with John Bogg
with John Bogg
Steve Lewis 4 Sep, 1976 AltLd O/S
with Martin Crook, sharpie
with Martin Crook, sharpie
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 30
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set