UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 30/04/2021  

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Rockfax Description
The stand start to the prow is rather intense. Start with right hand in one of the scoops at head height and left on a small crimpy side-pull. Using stacked pads to reach the high pinch is cheating. A sneaky heel hook proves key at this grade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The futuristic prow from standing with left hand on small crimpy sidepull and right hand in one of the obvious scoops. If you can get your left heel on without stacking pads, fair play, but for most with a single pad this will feel hard for the grade.

Lisa Linville, Tom Rainbow.

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User Date Notes
tomrainbow 28 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Should be 7a 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Should be 7a

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Devon Bouldering Cover
Devon Bouldering (2024)
Rockfax
By Dave Henderson, Ben Stokes
Dartmoor Cover
Dartmoor (2017)
The Climbers' Club
By James Clapham
Guidebook correction for this climb
4 users have this on their wishlist

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High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
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Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mr. Dodd on Mr. Wilson
Mr. Wilson

Grade: f6C ***
(Tunhill Rocks)

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