18m. Improbable and well protected climbing that finds an accessible path through an intimidating neighbourhood.
Climb the easy wide, white groove past a couple of old pegs to a small foot-ledge (bolt above). Step across to the left and move up with difficulty past a bolt runner to a resting place under the jagged overhang (8mm bolt and handy wire placement). Follow the series of blocks steeply up leftwards past a bolt runner to reach good handholds and a peg (with in-situ sling). With added protection from wires and cams continue much more easily up into the scoop above to reach a deep slot and finish with a hard reach past a bolt runner to a replacement double ring abseil station.

Re-cleaned and re-equipped 2012. An extra bolt added just below the abseil station.

G A Jenkin, M Knight, A Marquik 18/Aug/1991

guy xavier percival 20/Jan/16 Lead

Well Protected but intimidating

with Helen
Feeling bold 29/Jul/15 TR dnf

Got off the ground quicker on a repeat of this climb, hopefully with less rests but still not reaching top.

with Tom
Tom Brierley Gore 29/Jul/15 Lead rpt
Bates 12/May/15 Lead O/S
with Andy Brice
just one more 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Max B
LucasHarazin 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Definitely sport route around 6c. Only small runout at top.

pheotleyr 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Not quite a sports route I thought. Pulling through the overhanging blocks in the middle was hilarious. The finish is a bit chossy and I couldn't find a proper finishing hold after clipping the abseil station. Very soft for F6c, maybe rather F6b+? Or also very soft for E3 6a, more like E2 5c?

Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Chubbard 31/Jul/13 Lead O/S

The bottom bit is really good. The LO is in a bit of a funny place though. It should either be higher or lower.

with Derek
Tom Brierley Gore 28/Jul/13 Lead rpt
Feeling bold 24/Jul/13 TR dnf

Hung around to figure out the cruxy bit, 2/3's done.

with Tom
Garrouli 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Very scary pulling through the large, detached blocks!

with Ioanna
richiebongo 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Mostly a clip-up now. Very sustained and very good as long as the blocks stay in.

with Nick Smith
Tom Brierley Gore 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Nice climb worth a repeat, went the right way this time :P not quite sure if this is still supposed to be trad or not with all the bolts it has... there's still one runner and a bit of tat you have to use. A soft 6c possibly

Aaron Lines 13/Jan/13 Lead O/S


with martin
Tom Brierley Gore 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

i did it... but struggled and didn't read it very well and went right instead of left at the top (wrong way) but still possible. Managed to dislodge a few big chunks of rock i was standing on.

KRB 29/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Thoroughly enjoyed this one

with Martin Bridges
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
AndySL 07/Aug/94 Lead β

A bit loose.

with Mark
mattnuttall 24/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Matthieu Mounier
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