UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
A fine long pitch. Start at a lone bolt line that heads up the tallest section of the cliff. Climb with difficulty up the initial groove/wall to a ledge and continue to below the right end of the overhang at two thirds height. Take the leftwards leading line above the overhang to a lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An engaging sustained climb, with an airy finish up the highest part of the wall. Good value.
Climb the right side of the shallow scoop, and wall above, past three bolt runners to a small ledge. Move up easily to the larger ledge above (bolt) then continue up the tricky slim ramp (bolt) to a bolt at the base of the prominent orange scar. Climb a short crack past a peg and a bolt until level with the right end of a narrow overhang. Clip a bolt just above then climb across and up left to better holds and a final bolt runner. Finish directly up to a new double ring abseil station at the end of the good rock.

Originally E2 5c (with three bolts). The line was retro-bolted in 2012.

G A Jenkin, A Tallant, direct start 12/6/1991 (indirect with M Ward, P Jarvis, 12/6/1991) 12/Jun/1991.

Ticklists

New Quarry Sport Climbs - Bristol , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , New Quarry Sport , Avon Gorge Sport Routes , Avon GORGEous

Feedback

User Date Notes
RichPacker 22 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Suggest clipsticking the first bolt or having a pad, the start is polished and slippery. Really enjoyable climbing though.
Show beta
βeta: Suggest clipsticking the first bolt or having a pad, the start is polished and slippery. Really enjoyable climbing though.
jake1108 1 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First hangar came off during the climb. Nut pinged off into oblivion. Left the hangar on the shelf below the climb if anyone going has a spare nut.
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βeta: First hangar came off during the climb. Nut pinged off into oblivion. Left the hangar on the shelf below the climb if anyone going has a spare nut.
leburnett88 19 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The first bolt hanger is now missing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first bolt hanger is now missing
MarkH55 28 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The first bolt hanger fell off, its back on but only hand tight
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first bolt hanger fell off, its back on but only hand tight

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
New Andy Test Add

Grade: 6b ***
(Testing)

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