20m.
With a new lease of life, the route gives enjoyable stress-free climbing with consistent good protection.
Start up the left side of the rib (small wire) and step across onto a ledge and a welcoming vertical nut slot ('hexs' useful). Climb the rib past two bolt runners to a slabby section (small wires) and the top of a projecting diamond-shaped block (bolt out on the left). From the niche above (hidden old peg), reach leftwards over the remaining bulge to another old peg (and good 1.5 + 2 cams) before traversing out left and stepping up onto a short slab. Finish past a final redundant peg to a shared double ring abseil station immediately above on the apex of the rib.
Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with two extra bolts added in 2012.
Start up the left side of the rib (small wire) and step across onto a ledge and a welcoming vertical nut slot ('hexs' useful). Climb the rib past two bolt runners to a slabby section (small wires) and the top of a projecting diamond-shaped block (bolt out on the left). From the niche above (hidden old peg), reach leftwards over the remaining bulge to another old peg (and good 1.5 + 2 cams) before traversing out left and stepping up onto a short slab. Finish past a final redundant peg to a shared double ring abseil station immediately above on the apex of the rib.
Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with two extra bolts added in 2012.
G A Jenkin, M Ward 4/3/1989 04/Mar/1989.
Ticklists
CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kiddie68 | 27 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Keep a Dragon Cam 1/Friend 0.5 to back up the hidden last peg, just above the final bulge | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Keep a Dragon Cam 1/Friend 0.5 to back up the hidden last peg, just above the final bulge |
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| tomdale | 14 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Is it a trad route, or just run-out sport? | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Is it a trad route, or just run-out sport? |
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Route of Interest
Great Central Route
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))