UKC

16m. Varied and absorbing. Climb the open groove to a pair of peg runners (wires down on the left and immediately above). Pull up leftwards (various gear) then step out right onto the overhang to reach a peg runner and in-situ thread just above. Climb the right-side of the prominent elongated hole past a bolt runner (and good wire above) then finish delicately, with a quicker pulse, on much smoother rock to a shared double ring abseil station.

Originally E2 5b. Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with an extra peg added in 2012. Abseil station re-located to the left.

G A Jenkin, M Ward 12/Feb/1989


ClimberDateStyle
Andrew Sloan 27/Oct/17 2nd O/S

Pete inadvertently finished at the left abseil station, I don't think any difference to the grade.

with pete
Jim blackford 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Low in the grade e1, rather good though. Climbing just further right to finish on right hand abseil point looked worthwhile

guy xavier percival 16/Aug/17 Lead O/S
TGHB 15/Jun/17 TR dog

Very fun route, look forward to giving it a tick

DanJennings 15/Jun/17 2nd
Wendy Watthews 15/Jun/17 Lead rpt
JoeCoxson 26/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Well protected after the first pegs

with Mr G, Wendy Matthews
Wendy Watthews 26/Feb/17 Lead

On joes gear

with Mr G, joe c
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead rpt
felixizzy 14/Apr/15 Lead β

On Lewis' gear til the pegs then o/s from there up. Really nice climbing with good rests.

with Lewis
Hidden 04/Jan/15 2nd rpt
evhall 04/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Tom P
LucasHarazin 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Jess Broadhurst
just one more 19/Apr/14 -
with Max B
pheotleyr 29/Mar/14 Lead rpt

Without preplaced gear this time. Even though I wasn't fully recovered from being sick, this felt soft for E1 5b.

with Jana
pheotleyr 15/Oct/13 Lead β

Led on Ben's gear. Lots of upper end 5a climbing, no proper 5b climbing I thought. And reasonably protected. Seemed pretty soft for E1 to me, but the preplaced gear might have helped.

with Ben
Cheese Monkey 15/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Went left at hole first, re-lead it properly!

with Peter
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Stanners 04/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Pleasantly surpising route for new quarry trad! Found it quite technical getting to the thread but only 5b.

Mark Davies PK 04/Jul/13 2nd rpt

E1 5b now

with Stanners
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/12 TR O/S
Didymus 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Judging by the cobwebs a neglected route but surprisingly nice climbing and solid rock for NQ. There are some good wires and micro-wires but the rotten tat and corroded pegs and mangled bolts needs replacing. Worth E2 in current state, maybe E1 if refitted?

with Rich
Bristoldave 09/May/09 Lead O/S
KRB 30/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Martin Bridges
Paz 20/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with KF
Hidden 12/Jan/05 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
with Ady Short
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/01 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2001 -
gimmer ??/2001 -

Snapped in-situ wire (by hand!)

Hidden ??/2000 -
crimpaway ??/1999 Lead
chris sm 04/Jun/98 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
lowersharpnose 02/Aug/95 Lead O/S

The easiest E2 in the gorge? More like HVS.

with Adam
AndySL 17/Jun/93 Lead β
with Mark
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 11
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set