WARNING: This route is probably no longer safe/E2 5b.The concretion jug is now mostly gone and the thread is missing.

Nono 08/Jul/17 2nd
fuzzysheep01 08/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Might have valued reading the UKC entry before doing this one - definite E3 5b now, with groundfall certain from crux moves without concretion for protection and holds. There is another thread about 3m above the broken one and it is possible to find decent gear under the ivy in the corner - just needs uncovering. Some really nice moves in upper half.

Tom Brierley Gore 02/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Wish I had seen the warning before attempting this one... Found the start tough and then was rather confused once over the roof with no thread to be seen. Looks like run-out to well past decking height until the peg - I decided against it and reverse climbed with difficulty to retrieve gear. Could be reclaimed with some fixed gear but it's a free solo with ropes in it's current state.

Hidden 10/Jun/17 Lead
WillAndrew 02/Apr/17 Lead dnf

WARNING: This route is probably no longer safe/E2 5b. I moved up to the "substantial concretion and thread" which instantly pulled off resulting in a near ground-fall; luckily a seemingly poor horizontal #2 nut below held. Abseiled down to retrieve gear and the concretion jug is now mostly gone, I would not trust anything that is left of it. I removed (well, broke) the remains of the thread with a bodyweight test. Thanks for the catch Kate!

with KatePG
Stanners 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S

hard going both physically (at the start) and mentally. Very bold looking at skimming the ground if you fluff moving to the peg as I doubt that thread would hold. Brilliant route, just got to trust those concretions!

with Jeff Jackson
aptius 08/Oct/16 TR β

After Rob's (impressive) lead. Tricky and sustained - if it's not physically demanding, it's psychologically demanding (and sometimes both at the same time). Was very happy to have the comfort of a top-rope!

with Rob
tobydunford 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Oli
Hidden 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
steve phillips 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with David
nakedave 29/Jul/16 2nd
tomhull 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Carl Watkins 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Sam T
Hidden 07/May/16 2nd dog
Hidden 07/May/16 Lead dog
ripper 12/Mar/16 Lead dog

Start was horrible - sandy, slimy and damp all at the same time, so quite a struggle. Top was loose. Middle bit nice though. Matt hated it - cursed the whole way up

with Matt Chap
jungle 05/Sep/15 2nd
with Rob Smart, Paul Mcarthy
stpauliblade 21/Jun/15 2nd
Luuuuuke 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with martin
gingerbex 16/Jun/15 2nd
alastairbegley 16/Jun/15 Lead dnf

backed off then went home due to not feeling well. Managed to down climb so preserved the on sight for next time.

leigh 07/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with Kev
leigh 07/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Glad to have finally got clean!

with Kev
hutchay 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
miriamclaire 06/Jun/15 2nd
with hutchay
Ash Sayers 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
poeter210 27/Jul/14 2nd dog
with Robert, adrian voss
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Julie Carroll 21/Jul/14 2nd
with Dave Thompson
Dave Thompson 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
evhall 13/Jul/14 Lead β

I put a new cord through the concretion above the overhang - there is a bomber 00 size cam which protects the move through the overhang - lovely wall climbing above

with Steve P, Dave F
NancyJones 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Justin T 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Nancy
richiebongo 02/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Jon Didymus
Didymus 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

had to down climb to the ground for a breather!

with Rich
BareBears 21/Jun/14 2nd dog

First attempt at seconding an E2 5b. Fun!

with Dale
Dean Russell 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Dale ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S

My favourite route of the day probably because it was pushing me. Sustained 5b moves and pumpy, with the hardest move threw the overhang which I had to down climb because the first time I got the sequence wrong. Spaced protection but enough. With an awkward abseil which Dan found all very exciting just another day in the office :)

with Dan
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead O/S
BFG ?/Jul/13 Lead
BFG ?/Jul/13 Lead
Pete Rigby 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 18/May/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
Simon Allcock 14/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Wilki
Ollie B 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with P.O'Neill
Russtygibbons 02/Jul/12 TR RP
richardashe 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Might have went slightly too high but don't think it affected me too much. Wouldn't really give it that grade, bit lower.

ASchwirtz 01/Jul/12 2nd O/S
leon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
leigh 27/May/12 Lead dog

Epic for me!

with Tim
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead O/S
ian d f 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Helen B
Goose4 26/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Helnorris 21/Mar/12 2nd
stvredmond 21/Mar/12 Lead

ok climbing though I grabbed on to a flake and thought my belly was wasnt though, it was the flake :D. worth doing and is so pumpy at the start

MikeLell 07/Jan/12 2nd
with Dave
Hidden ??/2012 -
Tim M 09/Sep/11 Lead O/S

A deliciously well concealed booby trap, presumably by the Shorn Cliff Beast: The knot on the lower off tat had been 1/2 chewed through and one of the loose ends of the fisherman's was chewed off completely. Zero chance of it holding. Hidden the other side of a large trunk, it was an almost perfect job. Nice one beast!

with Emma
climbergg 09/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd
riddle 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
GarethHall 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Richard Hall 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Good route. Would be E1 if the holds looked as good ad they are.

with Max Benzie
iforwms 23/Jul/11 TR O/S
with Herman
crossdressingrodney 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/May/11 Lead
Tim Sparrow 01/May/11 Lead
with Ned
nniff 01/May/11 2nd
Hidden ?/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
3 Names 10/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Herman Oosthuizen ??/2011 -
with ifor
peaches69 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S

E2 5b my arse, more like E3 5b, easy climbing but bold as folk with gear from the 1970's?????!!!! i've climbed hit an run, same grade same crag and that is safe in comparison!! quite comfy but grade needs re-thinkin?!?!?!?!?

marclloyd77 17/Oct/10 2nd
Matt Johnson 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Really enjoyed this one

Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt
colkurtz 15/Aug/10 2nd
with Robb
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead
bjlsmith 09/Aug/10 2nd

What a struggle - required lots of coaxing!

with Misha and SMC
Misha 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Very nice face climbing on concretions. Didn't clip either of the pegs as there's sufficient natural gear. It's not that run out and it's not that hard on the bits that are run out (crux is going over the overhang I think), so quite an easy E2. Epic effort from Ben but he got to the top eventually.

with Ben
Danos 13/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Rich
Paul Bowen 22/May/10 Lead rpt
Paul Bowen 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with rob jenkins, John Crane
Greg Pittam 18/Apr/10 2nd β
with Raff
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
jgordon75 18/Oct/09 2nd
Owen W-G 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S

One of the insitu threads on worryingly thin cord, could do with replacing.

with Jim
Hidden 31/Aug/09 TR O/S
Kirill 31/Aug/09 TR dog

2 rests on the rope

with Tim
Hidden 31/Aug/09 TR
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
catt 20/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Very good. Hard, bold start and sustained and bold above. A very cool lead from Will.

with Will
Wilbur 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S

My second E2. Bit bold and run out but not too scary.. Cool holds.

with Iain
gripped01 ??/2009 Lead O/S
just one more 23/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Svenn G
Bristoldave 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Amy
amy S 28/Jun/08 2nd
with Bristoldave
Hidden 10/May/08 2nd
Circus 26/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Not as safe as the guide would have you believe.

Mark Davies PK 26/Oct/07 2nd rpt
with Adam (circus)
Clarky10 05/Aug/07 2nd O/S
SamStokes 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Loved This one the concretions rule!

Tim W 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
DrGav 28/Apr/07 Lead β

Fun climb, not too run-out

with Dave
David Martin 28/Apr/07 Lead β
with DrGav
sam8oy 06/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with John
bpmclimb 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Great climb - some of the concretions look a bit temporary

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 11/Mar/07 2nd
Bux 18/Jul/06 2nd rpt
with Harry and Sam
Jez 07/Jul/06 Lead O/S
3 Names ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Tim Hussain
Bux ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Will
gimmer ?/May/05 2nd
with Matt Telfer
BruceW ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Jen
Hidden 18/Jun/04 2nd O/S
chris sm 16/Jun/04 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
Mark Davies PK ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Jude
Wil Treasure ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S

Broke a foothold. Pleasant, and low in the grade. "Enjoyable and safe" may be a little misleading, enjoyable yes, but it does feel a little runout.

with Malcolm
Hidden 14/May/03 Lead O/S
cem 22/Mar/03 Lead β

With some prior knowledge, having backed off it seven months earlier

with Rob Smithies, Neil Northrop
simon kimber ??/2003 Lead O/S
cem 11/Aug/02 Lead dnf
with James Gregory
goi.ashmore 29/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
pezzerrr 01/Sep/01 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Roget 11/Sep/99 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 06/Feb/99 Lead
Jim Brooke 06/Feb/99 2nd O/S
with Rich
guy xavier percival 12/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with rod
chris sm ?/Sep/97 2nd
with Paul Osborn
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High E3
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Votes cast 29
Votes cast 26
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