15m.
Fun, consistent climbing at the grade; follows jugs up a right-leaning arête, on a slightly past-vertical wall.
Begin on the face below a right-leaning arête and work up and left through some pockets, passing two bolts, getting to the arête sooner than later. Then just follow the arête up right past a few more bolts to the anchors. There are some hidden jugs on the other side of the arête that youre going to want to find. A little pumpy due to the steepness, but there are no moves difficult for the grade. Ignore a large percentage of the chalked pockets on the face to your right, theyre for an eliminate that follows the line without using the arête (New Release 5.12-)
Begin on the face below a right-leaning arête and work up and left through some pockets, passing two bolts, getting to the arête sooner than later. Then just follow the arête up right past a few more bolts to the anchors. There are some hidden jugs on the other side of the arête that youre going to want to find. A little pumpy due to the steepness, but there are no moves difficult for the grade. Ignore a large percentage of the chalked pockets on the face to your right, theyre for an eliminate that follows the line without using the arête (New Release 5.12-)
Leventhal, Oliphant, and Draper 1998.
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Route of Interest
Johnny Can't Lead
Grade: 5.11a ***
(Malibu Creek State Park)