UKC

Restricted Access

Bearacleave Wood is owned by the National Trust and contains some fantastic quality bouldering with something for everyone. Access problems have arisen recently at this and other bouldering areas on Dartmoor due mainly to excessive cleaning of boulders, but also some other issues. Please follow the Respect the Rock code as well as the following site specific access code of conduct:  

  • No new development - there are in excess of 700 exisiting lines across Bovey Woods as a whole and further development would mean more cleaning and removal of important mosses and lichens. This is a real concern to the landowners and continued development and new cleaning could result in loss of access.

  • Keep cleaning to a minimum. A completely clean boulder might look good to a climber, but to the landowner it looks a lot like environmental damage. Keep individual holds clean, don't strip entire faces of vegetation.

  • Chalk really stands out in the environment, so remove as much as possible from the rock before leaving a problem.

  • Please don't use this area for lantern sessions (night bouldering) - this has been a contributing factor in the developing access concerns of the landowner.

  • Take your litter home with you as well as any other litter in the area. This includes things like pieces of finger tape which can be easily forgotten.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 30/04/2021  

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Rockfax Description
A popular (by Bovey Woods' standards) and worthwhile traverse. Sit start at the jug and traverse left through Potty Mouth. The low flake on Potty Mouth is out at this grade. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Traverse the front of the Mushroom Block. Start on obvious low jug on right arete, climb left around the blunt arete and up the edge of Dog Days and Winter Haze. The starting jug of Potty Mouth is not used for feet at all. Good, despite the rule!

Steve Pack.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Bovey Woods

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Devon Bouldering Cover
Devon Bouldering (2024)
Rockfax
By Dave Henderson, Ben Stokes
Dartmoor Cover
Dartmoor (2017)
The Climbers' Club
By James Clapham
Guidebook correction for this climb
4 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High f6B
Mid f6B
Low f6B
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
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Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
F.E.A.R.

Grade: f6A+ ***
(Lynmouth)

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