A strange climb weaving around the chimney to the right. Essentially a bad beta version of the chimney. Pull steeply up blocky terrain to start, then continue up the cracked arete to a handjam slot before stepping back into the chimney to finish. A 6a eliminate direct finish is possible.
10/05/18 - A large block has been trundled on the route before the final pull out of the chimney - not sure how this affects the grade but is suspected to make it easier!

C. Macadam 1984

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 23 Jul 2nd O/S
Kevin Woods 4 Jul Lead O/S
Alasdair Fulton 3 Jul Lead O/S Meh. Felt quote bold at the start, then loose, shit and escapable at the top.
with Gordon Lacey
Meh. Felt quote bold at the start, then loose, shit and escapable at the top.
with Gordon Lacey
John McKenna 2 Jul Lead O/S Probably E2 5c. Good moves at the bottom, forgettable after.
Probably E2 5c. Good moves at the bottom, forgettable after.
Hidden 2 Jul 2nd dog
Gordon Lacey 23 May Lead rpt
with Alan Dow
with Alan Dow
sas 25 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
with Gwyd
with Gwyd
bodovix 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S didn't feel as gubbed as i usually would after an E3,, will have to go for the right hand crack next time
didn't feel as gubbed as i usually would after an E3,, will have to go for the right hand crack next time
Hidden 4 Jun, 2018 Lead
Hugh Simons 17 May, 2018 Lead rpt Re-climbed since trundling the block, if climbed normally (going left at the top), it's about E2 5c now, would be worth E3 6a if the elimite top crack is taken.
Re-climbed since trundling the block, if climbed normally (going left at the top), it's about E2 5c now, would be worth E3 6a if the elimite top crack is taken.
Martin McKenna - UKC 17 May, 2018 Lead RP E2 5c, especially now it's lost the large block (thanks Hugh!)
E2 5c, especially now it's lost the large block (thanks Hugh!)
Hugh Simons 10 May, 2018 Lead G/U Took a fall pulling round the steep start when a hold broke on me which was rather annoying. Next go got through that bit fine, and the rest of the route was easy enough. Just at the bit in the chimney near the top where you can pull right in to the crack was a very large loose block, which thankfully didn't fall out when I pulled on it! On the ab down I did pull on it properly and the whole thing moved significantly. The obvious thing to do was trundle the whole thing so I did - the block was pretty big and would definitely have killed someone if it hit them. Not sure what this does to the route - but where there used to be a useable crimp on the block is now a big jug so I imagine it is easier than before. I may climb it again to confirm but it does need a clean!
Took a fall pulling round the steep start when a hold broke on me which was rather annoying. Next go got through that bit fine, and the rest of the route was easy enough. Just at the bit in the chimney near the top where you can pull right in to the crack was a very large loose block, which thankfully didn't fall out when I pulled on it! On the ab down I did pull on it properly and the whole thing moved significantly. The obvious thing to do was trundle the whole thing so I did - the block was pretty big and would definitely have killed someone if it hit them. Not sure what this does to the route - but where there used to be a useable crimp on the block is now a big jug so I imagine it is easier than before. I may climb it again to confirm but it does need a clean!
Martin McKenna - UKC 13 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S With the 6a eliminate at the top. Surprisingly good climbing!
with Iain
With the 6a eliminate at the top. Surprisingly good climbing!
with Iain
gurumed 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Gordon Lacey 29 Apr, 2017 2nd
Brian Pollock 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Nice route. Gear was adequate with a nice bouldery start on good holds.
with Gordon
Nice route. Gear was adequate with a nice bouldery start on good holds.
with Gordon
Hidden 13 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
dmacmorris 20 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Lovely route with great powerful moves thru the crux. TR while placing gear. Lead tomorrow?
with Iain Smith, Kevin Woods
Lovely route with great powerful moves thru the crux. TR while placing gear. Lead tomorrow?
with Iain Smith, Kevin Woods
Dr Toph 6 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt
sophiecb 6 Aug, 2013 2nd
with Dr Toph
with Dr Toph
Neil Adams 3 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Strange route but nice moves near the bottom
Strange route but nice moves near the bottom
Ross Barnes 29 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with James
with James
Hidden 31 Jul, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 7 Apr, 2012 2nd
Hidden 7 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
GraemeDiack ?Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
KeithAlexander ?Mar, 2012 2nd rpt
Denpov 4 Jul, 2011 TR RP Self-belay. Climbed it clean on my 3rd attempt. :o)
Self-belay. Climbed it clean on my 3rd attempt. :o)
mark1atkins ?Jul, 2011 Lead
redjerry ?Jul, 2011 TR O/S
Fraser 5 Jun, 2011 Lead β Felt quite stiff for the 5c warm-up! Lead with first 3 bits of gear insitu. PS Very reminiscent of La Turbie........NOT!
with Kev
Felt quite stiff for the 5c warm-up! Lead with first 3 bits of gear insitu. PS Very reminiscent of La Turbie........NOT!
with Kev
kevg 5 Jun, 2011 2nd
with Fraser
with Fraser
KeithAlexander ??, 2011 2nd β felt hard
felt hard
Dr Toph 11 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S Jason led it smoothly. The direct finish is unnecessary but quite doable - avoids going back into the grotty chimney.
Jason led it smoothly. The direct finish is unnecessary but quite doable - avoids going back into the grotty chimney.
jazzyjackson 11 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S I didnt see any visions of Monaco, plenty broken glass though, quite nice climbing.
I didnt see any visions of Monaco, plenty broken glass though, quite nice climbing.
andymoin 24 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S An awesome route, steep to start then eases after the crux; amazing body potions required for the highly angled crux, great gear. Fell on the crux, should have chilled out and taken my time, still hard but got it fine second time. Clean ground up.
An awesome route, steep to start then eases after the crux; amazing body potions required for the highly angled crux, great gear. Fell on the crux, should have chilled out and taken my time, still hard but got it fine second time. Clean ground up.
samrcowie 20 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ed
with Ed
dshortt ?Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Christopher Ravey
with Christopher Ravey
Greg Boswell 12 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
Greg Boswell 12 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
akhughes 12 Jun, 2007 2nd
with Greg B
with Greg B
a_hein ??, 2005 2nd O/S
Bruce Kerr 31 Mar, 1990 Lead
with geomac
with geomac
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 9
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set