Rockfax Description
The left-hand side of the crest of the buttress by some good pitches before heading out right to escape up loose terrain. The description is from the first ascentionists, but the line on the topo MAY NOT be accurate, especially in the upper part,
1) N6-, 50m. Start 2m left of the right edge at the lowest point of the wall. Follow the crack to the ledge.
2) N5, 40m. Continue up the crack to the groove. After 30m traverse left to a grass balcony.
3) N6+/A1, 30m. Traverse 3m left, then climb the wall under the crack in the overhang (the middle one) and go up the crack to a groove and stance.
4) N6+, 45m. Climb 4m up the groove, then move left past the arete to a system of cracks, which lead to a ledge.
5) N5, 55m. Head diagonally left to the corner, follow it for 10m then traverse right to the next groove. Climb this to a stance with two old pegs.
6) N6+, 55m. Climb up the wall to a groove and go up this to a grassy ledge. Continue up the system of cracks to a hole then traverse left to small ledge.
7) N4, 65m. Climb the crack and wall above to grassy ledges. Move to a small stance on the right edge under a wall.
8) N4, 30m. Follow the ledge under the wall past the arete to a ramp with loose rock. Up this to a stance under dubious blocks.
9) N4, 40m. Gain a loose wall then climb it to grassy ledges. Continue to a stance under the wall with blocks.
10) N4, 30m. Head up to left edge and make an airy traverse left around the arete to a stance at foot of a groove.
11) N4, 40m. Go up the groove, then left and up a grassy wall to the crest of the ridge.
Descent - Head down grassy slope on the left to reach the sea. © Rockfax

FA. Filip Zahradnik, Radovan Kunc (Czech Republic) 20.6.2011 20/Jun/2011.

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