Rockfax Description
Well named - an expedition up the tall slabs and walls to the right of the main buttress of Trollfestningen. Needs a decent dry spell to sort the many wet streaks that cover the lower slab after rain/from melting snow on the big half-height terrace. The route is reported to be bold and have its fair share of loose rock.
Approach - Trend right from the usual approach to reach a ledge right of hanging block. Move right to an easy groove.
1) N3, 25m. Slant right up the easy groove then step left and belay below a conspicuous 'tongue' of rock.
2) N6-, 45m. Climb slabs to reach the start of a thin diagonal crack. Follow this to a vertical crack, the start of which is often wet. Climb the steep slab next to the crack for a couple of metres then follow the crack to a good belay below a fine groove in the next slab. On the first ascent this pitch was avoided by heading out right and back left up grassy terrain.
3) N5+, 50m. The groove gives a fine pitch on great rock.
4) N5, 25m. Exit the groove, pad left up slabs to a tree belay.
5) 55m. Walk up to the start of the steeper rock in the back left corner of the huge bay/ledge system.
6) N5, 55m. Take a line diagonally right through the overlaps. There is tricky route finding especially towards the end of the pitch and it is usually wet, dirty and hard.
7) N3, 50m. Follow the grass ledge right - bush and peg belay.
8) N4, 50m. Continue right then up to a ledge below an off-width.
9) N5+, 30m. Climb the off-width then the left groove above to grassy rock. Belay on the third grass ledge below a roof.
10) N5, 55m. Follow the groove to grass ledges and a tree belay.
11) N6, 40m. A left-facing corner gains a slab. Climb this to a hand-crack. Continue up the slab above to below the next crack.
12) N6, 30m. More good crack climbing leads to an off-width section with chockstones. Up this (easier on the left) and through a final overhang to a ledge at the end of everything.
Descent - Abseiling back down the face is one option, but a better and safer idea is to traverse the ridge rightwards and descend into Trolldalen down vague paths on the eastern side then head down the valley - around 5 hours - see p.269. © Rockfax

FA. (Top two pitches only with no explanation how they got there) Jukka Leinonen, Hannu-Pekka Hypp?nen 7/8.7.2011. ,FA. (The bottom 10 pitches) Jukka Leinonen, Hannu-Pekka Hypp?nen 15/16.7.2014.,FA. (Pitch two as described) Jukka Leinonen, Ville Ojansivu.

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Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

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