700 feet. Very severe. Rubbers. Start: at the left side of the main buttress, at the foot of a
subsidiary rib (cairn) and some 120 feet below a large grass ledge.
First ascent 23rd July, 1944. R. J. Birkett, T.H.G. Dwyer.
(1) 120 feet. Moderate climbing to the large grass ledge.
(2) 80 feet. Traverse over grass to the right hand edge of the ledge,
small cairn and belay.
(3) 20 feet. Climb the wall on to a rib and into a corner.
(4) 25 feet. Keep moving right round another corner and on to a
slightly higher ledge, then traverse to the foot of a steep wall.
(5) 60 feet. Start up the right hand side of the wall and at about 15 feet
traverse left a few feet then straight up on good holds to a grass
ledge. Good belay on a rock ledge 6 feet above the grass ledge.
(6) 55 feet. ' The Red Wall.' From the grass ledge traverse right a
few feet then climb the steep wall, on to the rib on the right ;
this move on to the rib is made from below an overhang and is delicate
and exposed. From the rib ascend steep but easier rocks to
a grass ledge. Good belay.
(7) 45 feet. Up the short crack above. Traverse along a juniper ledge
to a large rock ledge with good belay above.
(8) 40 feet. Descend the chimney below for 10 feet then traverse right
on good holds to a prominent block.
(9) 45 feet. The Abseil. A loop is arranged round a knob of rock
some 10 feet to the right of the block. A 40 feet abseil is
made from here, bearing slightly right and over a steep bulge,
landing in a grassy corner immediately at the bottom left, of a
steep slabby wall.
(10) 85 feet. The wall is ascended starting a few feet to the right of an
angular corner, the pitch inclines to the right till the overhang is
reached. This is climbed direct on adequate holds. Belay on a
small grassy ledge above.
(11) 40 feet. Straight up rather broken rock for 20 feet, then an upward
traverse right leads into a large grassy corner. Belay 6 feet above.
(12) 35 feet. The wall above is ascended, some 20 feet and to the right
a conspicuous cube of rock is reached, a difficult step is then taken
to the right then up into a corner. A 5 feet traverse (delicate) left
leads to the top of the pitch and at the foot of a V-chimney on
Bower's climb. Good belay. (This pitch appears to be Kirkus'
variation of Bower's climb).
(13) 30 feet. Pitch 7 of Bower's climb.
(14) 60 feet. Pitch 8 of Bower's climb.