CMoore 08/May/17 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing. Dry. Rory nearly falling off at the crux on lead and windmilling both arms in the air to stay on was the highlight by far

with tunnah
Tom.Priestley 08/May/17 AltLd O/S

Led p 2,4,6. Quite run out in places!! Defo not E1. Brilliant and unlikely climbing tho. Tricams useful.

tunnah 08/May/17 AltLd
quickdrawmcraw 08/May/17 AltLd
with tom
Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
freudy_love 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
penny.orr 02/Jun/16 2nd

AMAZING and SCARY. Very cool route. We got a wee bit lost somewhere around the big roof.

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Much like everyone else I ended up going wrong somewhere along the line. In my case it was around the beginning of P5, which is quite poorly described, but in retrospect was quite clear in the topo. The variation we took was around the final crack of The Long Wait Direct, which seemed to involve endless slab climbing with exceptionally poor (i.e. no) protection that eventually led to the ledge w/ trees and a short walk right to the final corner of The Pause. Irrespective of this error, what we DID climb of The Long Reach would rank as one of my 'Top 3' E1s of all time.

Wendy Watthews 28/May/16 AltLd O/S

First summer route in Scotland after arriving in the car park at 4am from Bristol. Lead p2 and the pitch under the second roof. Pitch 2 was fantastically bold with a beautiful rainbow streak of quartz followed by an undercut leftwards traverse with a 7-8 meter runout above a pair of micros. Joe got slightly lost on the 4th pitch and ended up on the belay of Angel, this made my 5th pitch into more of a traverse under the roof. Lukey lead out the last two pitches to finish the day.

with Luke, joe c
Hidden 28/May/16 AltLd
JoeCoxson 28/May/16 AltLd O/S

Doesn't look 7 pitches from the floor, but it just keeps coming. Beautiful climbing on perfect granite. Lost the belay after leading the long reach pitch, ended up on the belay for Angel, but a short traverse put us back on route. The run-outs definitely require a cool mindset.

tmawer 26/May/16 AltLd dnf

A schoolboy error left us without the guide, but a photo on the phone of our route only, which, along with a pretty poor route description anyway, left us lacking the confidence that we were in the right place etc. etc. so abseiled off.... two very unhappy climbers!

with Mike Norbery
hamish2016 16/May/16 AltLd O/S

Excellent route! Approach pretty dry at the moment. Took the original line through the second overlap/hang - great fun on massive holds. SMC Scottish Rock description very accurate - follow the guide word for word and you won't get lost. Lead pitches 2, 4, 6, 7

with Robert Taylor
Roberttaylor 16/May/16 AltLd O/S

I led odd pitches, Hamish ran final two together (finished up final pitch of the Pause)

SallyReeves89 15/May/16 2nd

Bold and intimidating route on second! Good lead from the boys

with Colin, Kevin hall
Hidden 15/May/16 -
Colin Dyer 15/May/16 AltLd

Brilliant route. Every pitch is serious. The belay on pitch 3 is really crap, accept it and don't push too high looking for a better one. Helpful to have done The Pause prior to this.

Brian Pollock 23/Apr/16 AltLd dnf

rained off

James Smith 17/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Wow! What a great route! We came to scotland to climb winter routes and ended up doing this in t-shirts in beautiful sunny weather. Amazing, engaging climbing the whole way with good belays, a few wet streaks on the last two pitches added extra spice! I led the odd pitches, great job by matt on the others - this was his second ever e2!

with matt
Pat-H 02/Oct/15 2nd
with Masa
masa-alpin 02/Oct/15 Lead O/S

The first ever route in Etive Slab for both of us! Foggy start. In the upper part of P2, I mistook the line of Angel – very scary… Patrick then followed the proper line, because there was no gear to take out. Lead P4+5 in one go (unintentionally) in 60m, but maybe slightly too left than the proper line.

Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd
1202alarm 12/Jun/15 AltLd

Brilliant route brilliant weather no midges!

with Stu Green
stugreen75 12/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Even pitches. Great day out. Followed the topo which was accurate.

MonkeyDawson ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Simon Smith
plain kitten ??/2015 -
buzby78 13/Sep/14 AltLd
with Robbie
alice_loudon 03/Sep/14 2nd
with Niels
Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
jess ?/Sep/14 AltLd
with neill
Andrew Wilson 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Seems like we went off route and did some new climbing. Did the roof and slab of Angel and Matt led the final head wall direct from the trees to finish. We would say this deserves E4 5c. Reading other comments I think there must be a discrepancy between the guidebook description, the topo and the actual route. The problem seems to lie on the pitch after the long reach prior to the section through the last roof with the overhanging groove. I was slumped in the trees with a thousand yard stare after leading the slab! Felt like sixty degrees with no holds or gear!

with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Actually climbed first two pitches of this then various bits of other routes including long wait direct and a 5c pitch of Angel (nice one Andy) also covered some new ground and added a direct escape from tree lined ledge above angel belay. All in all an excellent 'new' line and we feel probably E4 5c.

with Andy Wilson
simon_D 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Joe
joesmith 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P1,3,5.Most of the best moves, are getting over the different overlaps (apart from 'the long reach'!)

with Simon Davidson
Alasdair Fulton 20/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Back on the slabs, and they delivered the goods as always. We did a "full" 30m pitch (as described) past the first major overlap (as per Swastika). Belayed at a "small ledge with flake crack" which took 3 small cams. I led left from there, past some sort of "quartz pocket" and up to a "grassy ledge". At this point we realised we were a good 30m left of where both Gary Latter's and the SMC guides photos topos show you breaking through the second "major" overlap. So, we went up to the overlap, traversed hard right for ~20m and belayed below a steep boulder section with a big jug, pulling over into a nice finger crack. Bottom line is - the photo topos, or the written topo are plain wrong as they don't even close to match. Bloody awesome route though ahhaha!

with James Sutton
KennyGeoghegan 01/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

Rained off at 3rd belay, felt hard although friction was poor!

with Andy
mike mo ??/2014 -
James Thacker ??/2014 -
LHumble ??/2014 Lead O/S
with David Griffin
scottyskier82 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
arose 26/May/13 AltLd

Brilliant. long exposed sections

Hidden 25/May/13 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 25/May/13 -
Hidden 01/Mar/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
captain ??/2013 -
Hidden 23/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 04/Jun/12 AltLd
Sam Parker 29/May/12 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead
Hidden 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 06/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Adam
valecoastclimber 03/May/12 AltLd O/S
gjd 29/Apr/12 AltLd rpt

I led pitches 1 and 3. We were off route after the 'long reach' and ended up finishing up the pause.

with Sam Burns
tomdude 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Wow wow wow

with Rich Abel
Rich A 27/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

with tom

Patzl ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/11 2nd dnf
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd
tim newton 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 16/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Unfortunately it turned out to be soaking, so we abseiled down from the top of the first pitch.

with Heather Fox
adie84 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
GraMc 16/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

fraking awsome!! some of the best moves ive done anywhere... got off route quite a few times, but still awsome

with graham pinkerton
Hidden 10/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Simon Yearsley ?/Sep/10 AltLd
with Chris Pasteur
buzby78 01/Jul/10 AltLd
jamiefoxen 30/May/10 Lead O/S

An immense climb, could be E2 if you consistantley took the least protected but more direct lines, there are a number of options in the SMC book.

with bob foster
jonnie3430 25/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Lukas
vanderz 10/May/10 AltLd O/S
Hardcore Pat 10/May/10 AltLd O/S

Odd leads.

with Chris Vanderz
jamestheyip 08/May/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic and varied climbing. Top traverse and overhang were wet and slimy but well protected.

with Peter
Andy Moles 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Couple of deviations. Deviation 1 took first/second pitches more direct via Pause belay, Deviation 2 forced a crazy bold lead from Ferdia, crossing the final overlap before the main headwall as for Angel then straight up the featureless slab above, probably worth E4 5c in its own right (25m runout with last gear below overlap). Great route, accidental variants included.

with Ferdia
ferdia 16/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

probably only on route for about 2.5 pitches. Included a 5c sectionof Angel with a 20m runout!!

colinthrelfall ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Shaw Brown 18/Sep/09 AltLd

A fantastic climb, had to a few detours to avoid damp patches but this seemed to add to the climb. A micro cam just below the long reach took a little of the fear factor away, but not much!

with Loz
sadams 12/Sep/09 AltLd
with Eric Hildrew
Sandy Simpson 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Absolutely outstanding missed out the finish as it was wet.

with brian duthie
Hidden ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
khartwig 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with Jim Macphail
jim.macp 01/Apr/09 -
tumbling wizard ??/2009 -
dave o 07/Sep/08 Lead

went wrong way for the last couple of pitches, ended up on long wait belay, then traversed accross to pause

with Julia H
Hidden 07/Sep/08 2nd
d conacher 13/Jul/08 AltLd
Captain Solo 13/Jul/08 AltLd
with Dougie
Hidden 14/May/08 AltLd O/S
DJayB 14/May/08 AltLd O/S

Took a slip on the "long reach" but somehow managed to stop myself slipping before the ropes came tight! Worldclass climbing!

Lawrie Brand 13/May/08 AltLd O/S

Brilliant bold climbing. Def E2 5b, not E1 5b as in stated in SMC selected climbs

with Al Goodridge
Hidden 12/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/06 Lead dnf
jim robertson ??/2006 -
john irving ??/2006 -

Every pitch demanded commitment, every pitch was sweet.

with Al Reid
whispering nic ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Swiss Tony
alan moore ??/2005 AltLd

Led the Reach pitch which seemed about Hard Severe. Had to go round the big roof on the top pitch.

Gudge ?/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
with Tim Darlow
brianrunner ??/2001 AltLd

This is a brilliant route. the first pitches up to the overlap are the slabs at their best.

with martina
Hidden 29/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
Bullybones ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
Dr Toph ??/1997 AltLd O/S

Was all going fine til we stupidly did the Pause traverse then had to take a diagonal line back left over the slabs above. One runner at 8m, had to reset belay there mid-pitch to allow rope to reach next belay. Then tried to finish up what would become Angel but had to TR right to rejoin TLR. Stupid/Epic type-2 fun.

with Ken Darkness
Duncan I ?/Aug/95 AltLd
with TobyJohnson
Hidden ?/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
auld al ?/May/95 AltLd O/S

we got lost at the top as well - think we done angel as some other parties - it certainly felt e3 5c and the hardest thing i had ever led

crossleysm ?/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
with Rob Cook
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd
Jon Read ?/Jul/93 AltLd O/S

Kev dropped the guide on pitch 3. We got lost!

with Kev Turner
Tom V ?/Jun/93 AltLd

took a very long falling slide on p4

with Glenn Watson
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 08/May/93 AltLd O/S
rob.grafton 24/May/92 Lead
with Bruce
innes ??/1991 AltLd O/S
pingora 05/May/90 AltLd O/S
with Nick
uphillnow ??/1990 -
graham lawrie ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1989 AltLd
Falko ??/1985 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
Lone Rider ??/1985 AltLd
Neil McA 06/Apr/84 AltLd O/S

Great route, tricky finding the correct exit at the top. The previous day we were on the Post face of 'Meggy' in Alpine conditions - Scotland at its best at this time of year.

with Richard White
neil3965 ?/Jun/80 AltLd
with Adam Kassyk
Hidden 19/May/80 Lead
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Bruce Kerr 03/Jun/79 2nd
with Chris Callow
Pedro50 03/Jun/78 AltLd O/S
with Wil Hurford, Robin Miller
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/78 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing, way runout!

with Alan Walmsley
Derek Ryden ??/1976 AltLd O/S

Brilliant. Run-out. Pre sticky rubber, and used a glove filled with dirt from the base of the cliff in lieu of chalk!

with Tom Barbour
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High E3
Mid E3
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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
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Votes cast 43
High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 40
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
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