**** in the Glencoe Guide.

Fantastic Bold slab climbing at its very best.

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Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish Rock Climbs ****, Best slab climbs of the UK, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Summer Trip 2014, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, BMG Application Rock (Unofficial), Last of the Summer Climb, 3 and 4 star E2 5b routes in Scotland

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
lanky 20 Apr AltLd Lead evens, spent along time on this especially pitch 4 figuring where to go. Amazing climbing though
Lead evens, spent along time on this especially pitch 4 figuring where to go. Amazing climbing though
Cam Bevan 20 Apr AltLd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
LucaC 20 Apr AltLd O/S Fantastic. Lead the odd pitches.
with Cam
Fantastic. Lead the odd pitches.
with Cam
Hidden 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
CMoore 8 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Brilliant climbing. Dry. Rory nearly falling off at the crux on lead and windmilling both arms in the air to stay on was the highlight by far
with tunnah
Brilliant climbing. Dry. Rory nearly falling off at the crux on lead and windmilling both arms in the air to stay on was the highlight by far
with tunnah
Tom.Priestley 8 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p 2,4,6. Quite run out in places!! Defo not E1. Brilliant and unlikely climbing tho. Tricams useful.
Led p 2,4,6. Quite run out in places!! Defo not E1. Brilliant and unlikely climbing tho. Tricams useful.
tunnah 8 May, 2017 AltLd
with CMoore
with CMoore
Hidden 8 May, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
freudy_love 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
penny.orr 2 Jun, 2016 2nd AMAZING and SCARY. Very cool route. We got a wee bit lost somewhere around the big roof.
AMAZING and SCARY. Very cool route. We got a wee bit lost somewhere around the big roof.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 2 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Much like everyone else I ended up going wrong somewhere along the line. In my case it was around the beginning of P5, which is quite poorly described, but in retrospect was quite clear in the topo. The variation we took was around the final crack of The Long Wait Direct, which seemed to involve endless slab climbing with exceptionally poor (i.e. no) protection that eventually led to the ledge w/ trees and a short walk right to the final corner of The Pause. Irrespective of this error, what we DID climb of The Long Reach would rank as one of my 'Top 3' E1s of all time.
Much like everyone else I ended up going wrong somewhere along the line. In my case it was around the beginning of P5, which is quite poorly described, but in retrospect was quite clear in the topo. The variation we took was around the final crack of The Long Wait Direct, which seemed to involve endless slab climbing with exceptionally poor (i.e. no) protection that eventually led to the ledge w/ trees and a short walk right to the final corner of The Pause. Irrespective of this error, what we DID climb of The Long Reach would rank as one of my 'Top 3' E1s of all time.
lukegorman 28 May, 2016 AltLd O/S took the overhang pitches
took the overhang pitches
Wendy Watthews 28 May, 2016 AltLd O/S First summer route in Scotland after arriving in the car park at 4am from Bristol. Lead p2 and the pitch under the second roof. Pitch 2 was fantastically bold with a beautiful rainbow streak of quartz followed by an undercut leftwards traverse with a 7-8 meter runout above a pair of micros. Joe got slightly lost on the 4th pitch and ended up on the belay of Angel, this made my 5th pitch into more of a traverse under the roof. Lukey lead out the last two pitches to finish the day.
First summer route in Scotland after arriving in the car park at 4am from Bristol. Lead p2 and the pitch under the second roof. Pitch 2 was fantastically bold with a beautiful rainbow streak of quartz followed by an undercut leftwards traverse with a 7-8 meter runout above a pair of micros. Joe got slightly lost on the 4th pitch and ended up on the belay of Angel, this made my 5th pitch into more of a traverse under the roof. Lukey lead out the last two pitches to finish the day.
Hidden 28 May, 2016 AltLd
JoeCoxson 28 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Doesn't look 7 pitches from the floor, but it just keeps coming. Beautiful climbing on perfect granite. Lost the belay after leading the long reach pitch, ended up on the belay for Angel, but a short traverse put us back on route. The run-outs definitely require a cool mindset.
Doesn't look 7 pitches from the floor, but it just keeps coming. Beautiful climbing on perfect granite. Lost the belay after leading the long reach pitch, ended up on the belay for Angel, but a short traverse put us back on route. The run-outs definitely require a cool mindset.
tmawer 26 May, 2016 AltLd dnf A schoolboy error left us without the guide, but a photo on the phone of our route only, which, along with a pretty poor route description anyway, left us lacking the confidence that we were in the right place etc. etc. so abseiled off.... two very unhappy climbers!
with Mike Norbery
A schoolboy error left us without the guide, but a photo on the phone of our route only, which, along with a pretty poor route description anyway, left us lacking the confidence that we were in the right place etc. etc. so abseiled off.... two very unhappy climbers!
with Mike Norbery
hamish2016 16 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Excellent route! Approach pretty dry at the moment. Took the original line through the second overlap/hang - great fun on massive holds. SMC Scottish Rock description very accurate - follow the guide word for word and you won't get lost. Lead pitches 2, 4, 6, 7
with Robert Taylor
Excellent route! Approach pretty dry at the moment. Took the original line through the second overlap/hang - great fun on massive holds. SMC Scottish Rock description very accurate - follow the guide word for word and you won't get lost. Lead pitches 2, 4, 6, 7
with Robert Taylor
Roberttaylor 16 May, 2016 AltLd O/S I led odd pitches, Hamish ran final two together (finished up final pitch of the Pause)
I led odd pitches, Hamish ran final two together (finished up final pitch of the Pause)
Sallyreeves 15 May, 2016 2nd Bold and intimidating route on second! Good lead from the boys
with Colin, Kevin hall
Bold and intimidating route on second! Good lead from the boys
with Colin, Kevin hall
Hidden 15 May, 2016 -
Colin Dyer 15 May, 2016 AltLd Brilliant route. Every pitch is serious. The belay on pitch 3 is really crap, accept it and don't push too high looking for a better one. Helpful to have done The Pause prior to this.
Brilliant route. Every pitch is serious. The belay on pitch 3 is really crap, accept it and don't push too high looking for a better one. Helpful to have done The Pause prior to this.
Brian Pollock 23 Apr, 2016 AltLd dnf rained off
rained off
James Smith 17 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Wow! What a great route! We came to scotland to climb winter routes and ended up doing this in t-shirts in beautiful sunny weather. Amazing, engaging climbing the whole way with good belays, a few wet streaks on the last two pitches added extra spice! I led the odd pitches, great job by matt on the others - this was his second ever e2!
with matt
Wow! What a great route! We came to scotland to climb winter routes and ended up doing this in t-shirts in beautiful sunny weather. Amazing, engaging climbing the whole way with good belays, a few wet streaks on the last two pitches added extra spice! I led the odd pitches, great job by matt on the others - this was his second ever e2!
with matt
Pat-H 2 Oct, 2015 2nd
with Masa
with Masa
masa-alpin 2 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S The first ever route in Etive Slab for both of us! Foggy start. In the upper part of P2, I mistook the line of Angel – very scary… Patrick then followed the proper line, because there was no gear to take out. Lead P4+5 in one go (unintentionally) in 60m, but maybe slightly too left than the proper line.
with Pat-H
The first ever route in Etive Slab for both of us! Foggy start. In the upper part of P2, I mistook the line of Angel – very scary… Patrick then followed the proper line, because there was no gear to take out. Lead P4+5 in one go (unintentionally) in 60m, but maybe slightly too left than the proper line.
with Pat-H
Hidden 19 Sep, 2015 AltLd
1202alarm 12 Jun, 2015 AltLd Brilliant route brilliant weather no midges!
with Stu Green
Brilliant route brilliant weather no midges!
with Stu Green
apollo18 12 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Even pitches. Great day out. Followed the topo which was accurate.
Even pitches. Great day out. Followed the topo which was accurate.
MonkeyDawson ?Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Simon Smith
with Simon Smith
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
buzby78 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with Robbie
with Robbie
alice_loudon 3 Sep, 2014 2nd
with Niels
with Niels
Hidden 3 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
jess ?Sep, 2014 AltLd
with buzby
with buzby
Andrew Wilson 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Seems like we went off route and did some new climbing. Did the roof and slab of Angel and Matt led the final head wall direct from the trees to finish. We would say this deserves E4 5c. Reading other comments I think there must be a discrepancy between the guidebook description, the topo and the actual route. The problem seems to lie on the pitch after the long reach prior to the section through the last roof with the overhanging groove. I was slumped in the trees with a thousand yard stare after leading the slab! Felt like sixty degrees with no holds or gear!
with Matt Nuttall
Seems like we went off route and did some new climbing. Did the roof and slab of Angel and Matt led the final head wall direct from the trees to finish. We would say this deserves E4 5c. Reading other comments I think there must be a discrepancy between the guidebook description, the topo and the actual route. The problem seems to lie on the pitch after the long reach prior to the section through the last roof with the overhanging groove. I was slumped in the trees with a thousand yard stare after leading the slab! Felt like sixty degrees with no holds or gear!
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Actually climbed first two pitches of this then various bits of other routes including long wait direct and a 5c pitch of Angel (nice one Andy) also covered some new ground and added a direct escape from tree lined ledge above angel belay. All in all an excellent 'new' line and we feel probably E4 5c.
with Andy Wilson
Actually climbed first two pitches of this then various bits of other routes including long wait direct and a 5c pitch of Angel (nice one Andy) also covered some new ground and added a direct escape from tree lined ledge above angel belay. All in all an excellent 'new' line and we feel probably E4 5c.
with Andy Wilson
simon_D 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Joe
with Joe
joesmith 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P1,3,5.Most of the best moves, are getting over the different overlaps (apart from 'the long reach'!)
with Simon Davidson
Lead P1,3,5.Most of the best moves, are getting over the different overlaps (apart from 'the long reach'!)
with Simon Davidson
Hidden 30 May, 2014 Lead rpt
Alasdair Fulton 20 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Back on the slabs, and they delivered the goods as always. We did a "full" 30m pitch (as described) past the first major overlap (as per Swastika). Belayed at a "small ledge with flake crack" which took 3 small cams. I led left from there, past some sort of "quartz pocket" and up to a "grassy ledge". At this point we realised we were a good 30m left of where both Gary Latter's and the SMC guides photos topos show you breaking through the second "major" overlap. So, we went up to the overlap, traversed hard right for ~20m and belayed below a steep boulder section with a big jug, pulling over into a nice finger crack. Bottom line is - the photo topos, or the written topo are plain wrong as they don't even close to match. Bloody awesome route though ahhaha!
with James Sutton
Back on the slabs, and they delivered the goods as always. We did a "full" 30m pitch (as described) past the first major overlap (as per Swastika). Belayed at a "small ledge with flake crack" which took 3 small cams. I led left from there, past some sort of "quartz pocket" and up to a "grassy ledge". At this point we realised we were a good 30m left of where both Gary Latter's and the SMC guides photos topos show you breaking through the second "major" overlap. So, we went up to the overlap, traversed hard right for ~20m and belayed below a steep boulder section with a big jug, pulling over into a nice finger crack. Bottom line is - the photo topos, or the written topo are plain wrong as they don't even close to match. Bloody awesome route though ahhaha!
with James Sutton
KennyGeoghegan 1 Mar, 2014 AltLd dnf Rained off at 3rd belay, felt hard although friction was poor!
with Andy
Rained off at 3rd belay, felt hard although friction was poor!
with Andy
mike mo ??, 2014 -
James Thacker ??, 2014 -
LHumble ??, 2014 Lead O/S
with David Griffin
with David Griffin
scottyskier82 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
with arose
with arose
arose 26 May, 2013 AltLd Brilliant. long exposed sections
Brilliant. long exposed sections
Hidden 25 May, 2013 2nd O/S
Chris Reid 25 May, 2013 -
Hidden 1 Mar, 2013 2nd
Hidden ??, 2013 -
captain ??, 2013 -
Hidden 23 Sep, 2012 Lead
Hidden 5 Jun, 2012 AltLd dnf
Hidden 4 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Sam Parker 29 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with Dad
with Dad
Hidden 20 May, 2012 Lead
Hidden 6 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 6 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
valecoastclimber 3 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
gjd 29 Apr, 2012 AltLd rpt I led pitches 1 and 3. We were off route after the 'long reach' and ended up finishing up the pause.
with Sam Burns
I led pitches 1 and 3. We were off route after the 'long reach' and ended up finishing up the pause.
with Sam Burns
tomdude 27 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Wow wow wow
with Rich Abel
Wow wow wow
with Rich Abel
Hidden 27 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
Patzl ??, 2012 -
Patzl ??, 2012 AltLd
alex_arthur ??, 2012 -
Hidden 1 Aug, 2011 2nd dnf
jlismore 23 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Eve Blumson, Joe Stearn
with Eve Blumson, Joe Stearn
tim newton 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 16 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf Unfortunately it turned out to be soaking, so we abseiled down from the top of the first pitch.
with Heather Fox
Unfortunately it turned out to be soaking, so we abseiled down from the top of the first pitch.
with Heather Fox
adie84 ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
GraMc 16 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S fraking awsome!! some of the best moves ive done anywhere... got off route quite a few times, but still awsome
with graham pinkerton
fraking awsome!! some of the best moves ive done anywhere... got off route quite a few times, but still awsome
with graham pinkerton
Hidden 10 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
Simon Yearsley ?Sep, 2010 AltLd
with Chris Pasteur
with Chris Pasteur
buzby78 1 Jul, 2010 AltLd
jamiefoxen 30 May, 2010 Lead O/S An immense climb, could be E2 if you consistantley took the least protected but more direct lines, there are a number of options in the SMC book.
with bob foster
An immense climb, could be E2 if you consistantley took the least protected but more direct lines, there are a number of options in the SMC book.
with bob foster
jonnie3430 25 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Lukas
with Lukas
vanderz 10 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hardcore Pat 10 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Odd leads.
with Chris Vanderz
Odd leads.
with Chris Vanderz
jamestheyip 8 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Fantastic and varied climbing. Top traverse and overhang were wet and slimy but well protected.
with pete123
Fantastic and varied climbing. Top traverse and overhang were wet and slimy but well protected.
with pete123
Andy Moles 16 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Couple of deviations. Deviation 1 took first/second pitches more direct via Pause belay, Deviation 2 forced a crazy bold lead from Ferdia, crossing the final overlap before the main headwall as for Angel then straight up the featureless slab above, probably worth E4 5c in its own right (25m runout with last gear below overlap). Great route, accidental variants included.
with ferdia
Couple of deviations. Deviation 1 took first/second pitches more direct via Pause belay, Deviation 2 forced a crazy bold lead from Ferdia, crossing the final overlap before the main headwall as for Angel then straight up the featureless slab above, probably worth E4 5c in its own right (25m runout with last gear below overlap). Great route, accidental variants included.
with ferdia
ferdia 16 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S probably only on route for about 2.5 pitches. Included a 5c sectionof Angel with a 20m runout!!
probably only on route for about 2.5 pitches. Included a 5c sectionof Angel with a 20m runout!!
colinthrelfall ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Shaw Brown 18 Sep, 2009 AltLd A fantastic climb, had to a few detours to avoid damp patches but this seemed to add to the climb. A micro cam just below the long reach took a little of the fear factor away, but not much!
with loz01
A fantastic climb, had to a few detours to avoid damp patches but this seemed to add to the climb. A micro cam just below the long reach took a little of the fear factor away, but not much!
with loz01
sadams 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Sandy Simpson 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Absolutely outstanding missed out the finish as it was wet.
with brian duthie
Absolutely outstanding missed out the finish as it was wet.
with brian duthie
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
khartwig 19 Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
with Jim Macphail
with Jim Macphail
jim.macp 1 Apr, 2009 -
tumbling wizard ??, 2009 -
dave o 7 Sep, 2008 Lead went wrong way for the last couple of pitches, ended up on long wait belay, then traversed accross to pause
with JuliaH
went wrong way for the last couple of pitches, ended up on long wait belay, then traversed accross to pause
with JuliaH
Hidden 7 Sep, 2008 2nd
d conacher 13 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Captain Solo 13 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 14 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
Lawrie Brand 13 May, 2008 AltLd O/S Brilliant bold climbing. Def E2 5b, not E1 5b as in stated in SMC selected climbs
with Al Goodridge
Brilliant bold climbing. Def E2 5b, not E1 5b as in stated in SMC selected climbs
with Al Goodridge
Hidden 12 Sep, 2006 2nd
Hidden 29 Apr, 2006 Lead dnf
jim robertson ??, 2006 -
john irving ??, 2006 - Every pitch demanded commitment, every pitch was sweet.
with Al Reid
Every pitch demanded commitment, every pitch was sweet.
with Al Reid
whispering nic ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Swiss Tony
with Swiss Tony
alan moore ??, 2005 AltLd Led the Reach pitch which seemed about Hard Severe. Had to go round the big roof on the top pitch.
Led the Reach pitch which seemed about Hard Severe. Had to go round the big roof on the top pitch.
Gudge ?Sep, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Tim Darlow
with Tim Darlow
brianrunner ??, 2001 AltLd This is a brilliant route. the first pitches up to the overlap are the slabs at their best.
with martina
This is a brilliant route. the first pitches up to the overlap are the slabs at their best.
with martina
Hidden 29 Apr, 2000 AltLd O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Hidden ?Jul, 1999 Lead rpt
Hidden ?May, 1999 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??, 1999 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 1998 Lead
Hidden 31 Jul, 1997 AltLd O/S
Dr Toph ??, 1997 AltLd O/S Was all going fine til we stupidly did the Pause traverse then had to take a diagonal line back left over the slabs above. One runner at 8m, had to reset belay there mid-pitch to allow rope to reach next belay. Then tried to finish up what would become Angel but had to TR right to rejoin TLR. Stupid/Epic type-2 fun.
with Ken Darkness
Was all going fine til we stupidly did the Pause traverse then had to take a diagonal line back left over the slabs above. One runner at 8m, had to reset belay there mid-pitch to allow rope to reach next belay. Then tried to finish up what would become Angel but had to TR right to rejoin TLR. Stupid/Epic type-2 fun.
with Ken Darkness
Duncan I ?Aug, 1995 AltLd
with TobyJohnson
with TobyJohnson
Hidden ?Aug, 1995 AltLd O/S
auld al ?May, 1995 AltLd O/S we got lost at the top as well - think we done angel as some other parties - it certainly felt e3 5c and the hardest thing i had ever led
we got lost at the top as well - think we done angel as some other parties - it certainly felt e3 5c and the hardest thing i had ever led
crossleysm ?Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Rob Cook
with Rob Cook
Hidden ??, 1994 AltLd
Jon Read ?Jul, 1993 AltLd O/S Kev dropped the guide on pitch 3. We got lost!
with Kev Turner
Kev dropped the guide on pitch 3. We got lost!
with Kev Turner
Tom V ?Jun, 1993 AltLd took a very long falling slide on p4
with Glenn Watson
took a very long falling slide on p4
with Glenn Watson
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 8 May, 1993 AltLd O/S
rob.grafton 24 May, 1992 Lead
with Bruce
with Bruce
innes ??, 1991 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 May, 1990 AltLd O/S
uphillnow ??, 1990 -
graham lawrie ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with Malcolm Thompson
with Malcolm Thompson
Hidden ??, 1989 AltLd
Falko ??, 1985 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
with Howard Lancashire
Lone Rider ??, 1985 AltLd
Neil McA 6 Apr, 1984 AltLd O/S Great route, tricky finding the correct exit at the top. The previous day we were on the Post face of 'Meggy' in Alpine conditions - Scotland at its best at this time of year.
with Richard White
Great route, tricky finding the correct exit at the top. The previous day we were on the Post face of 'Meggy' in Alpine conditions - Scotland at its best at this time of year.
with Richard White
neil3965 ?Jun, 1980 AltLd
with Adam Kassyk
with Adam Kassyk
Hidden 19 May, 1980 Lead
Davy Gunn ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Bruce Kerr 3 Jun, 1979 2nd
with Chris Callow
with Chris Callow
Pedro50 3 Jun, 1978 AltLd O/S
with Wil Hurford, Robin Miller
with Wil Hurford, Robin Miller
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?May, 1978 AltLd O/S Brilliant climbing, way runout!
with Alan Walmsley
Brilliant climbing, way runout!
with Alan Walmsley
Derek Ryden ??, 1976 AltLd O/S Brilliant. Run-out. Pre sticky rubber, and used a glove filled with dirt from the base of the cliff in lieu of chalk!
with Tom Barbour
Brilliant. Run-out. Pre sticky rubber, and used a glove filled with dirt from the base of the cliff in lieu of chalk!
with Tom Barbour
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 44
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set