UKC

34m, 3 pitches. Start in the same place as the original start to Central Route

1) 10 m 5a. Climb the twin cracks in the R wall of the corner to a bilberry ledge.
2) 15 m 6a/b. Gain the groove to the R of Central Route directly via the thin crack below. There are hardly any holds in the first 3 m of the crack so start by using slanting holds in the wall to the L to bridge up and reach R to two layaways in the crack. Use these with difficulty to reach crimps and make a powerful move on these to a jug at the base of the groove proper. Continue more easily up the groove to another bilberry ledge.
3) 9 m (to a belay) Finish as for Central Route. Much lichen and heather. Once again in need of a clean.”

Alternative p2) 16 m 5c. Climb the crack near the L arete until almost in Central Route. Traverse the descending break R to join the direct line at the jug at the base of the groove and continue as for the direct. This way the route is about E2.

C. Calow, H.Walmsley? 20/Jun/2017.

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Route of Interest
Spare Rib

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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