9 pitches.
The Hunting of the Snarg
Abseil in as for other routes on this part of the crag. Alternatively, scramble down the slabs as for the routes.
P1 Scramble down to ledges at the RHS of this part of the crag and start traversing along the barnacle covered line until a steep slab with a diagonal right to left crack is reached.
P2 4b Make a semi-hanging belay. Climb the diagonal crack to the arete. Turn the arete and take an obvious ledge system into the back of the cave.
P3 Cross the slabs heading for the arete. Traverse the wall until a ramp is reached. Move up this to belay on the arete some way above the sea.
P4 4b Move across and then descend a groove. Continue moving down and across the wall to belay in a groove just before the second cave.
P5 4b Descend the groove to gain a traverse line into the cave. The traverse is straightforward until the corner is reached. A hidden staircase allows the cave pedestal to be reached. A few further steps take you to the far side of the pedestal and belays.
P6 5a Forge across the steep wall on hidden rising jugs all the way until the dank chimney is reached. Step across this and traverse the seemingly blank slab on hidden steps. Turn the arete and tackle a second steep technical wall until a belay can be taken in the corner.
P7 4c Move around the next arete and continue quite easily until an unprotected slab. Teeter across this using small quartz handholds and slopers for feet. A belay is reached on the arete.
P8 5c Proceed easily across the slab until an awkward step down is reached. Continue traversing across and down a slab. Eventually a greasy corner is reached at water level (high tide). Make a very awkward move past the corner and arete to gain a greasy slab. Climb across and down this to gain a belay.
P9 Scramble towards the beach with, at high tide, the pleasure of some boots off wading to escape onto the boulders.
Originally climbed starting at mid-tide and finishing at about high tide.
Abseil in as for other routes on this part of the crag. Alternatively, scramble down the slabs as for the routes.
P1 Scramble down to ledges at the RHS of this part of the crag and start traversing along the barnacle covered line until a steep slab with a diagonal right to left crack is reached.
P2 4b Make a semi-hanging belay. Climb the diagonal crack to the arete. Turn the arete and take an obvious ledge system into the back of the cave.
P3 Cross the slabs heading for the arete. Traverse the wall until a ramp is reached. Move up this to belay on the arete some way above the sea.
P4 4b Move across and then descend a groove. Continue moving down and across the wall to belay in a groove just before the second cave.
P5 4b Descend the groove to gain a traverse line into the cave. The traverse is straightforward until the corner is reached. A hidden staircase allows the cave pedestal to be reached. A few further steps take you to the far side of the pedestal and belays.
P6 5a Forge across the steep wall on hidden rising jugs all the way until the dank chimney is reached. Step across this and traverse the seemingly blank slab on hidden steps. Turn the arete and tackle a second steep technical wall until a belay can be taken in the corner.
P7 4c Move around the next arete and continue quite easily until an unprotected slab. Teeter across this using small quartz handholds and slopers for feet. A belay is reached on the arete.
P8 5c Proceed easily across the slab until an awkward step down is reached. Continue traversing across and down a slab. Eventually a greasy corner is reached at water level (high tide). Make a very awkward move past the corner and arete to gain a greasy slab. Climb across and down this to gain a belay.
P9 Scramble towards the beach with, at high tide, the pleasure of some boots off wading to escape onto the boulders.
Originally climbed starting at mid-tide and finishing at about high tide.
L.Bartrop & R.Hudson 09/Jul/2017.
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Route of Interest
Millennium Falcon
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Forest Moon Buttress)