UKC

Restricted Access

Excellent crag west of Arch Zawn with routes from VS to E5. Formerly subject to a permanent restriction but now open as long as some simple access rules are followed:

Enter the Fort area via the original entrance (marked by yellow pots, no belay stakes allowed, minimise erosion. The west side of the promontory (NW of  'Wild Rumpus' is still restricted due to the lack of cliff top belays without placing a stake - this just covers the route 'Dawn Chorus' at present.

There is a chough nest in Arch Zawn (on approach to the fort crag). The following routs are restricted:  'Anaemia' to 'Archeology'

Please minimise disturbance while approaching the routes in this area.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

This just affects part of Arch Zawn on east side of the Fort: Routes 'Anaemia' to 'Archeology' inclusive
25m. Breaks out left from Physio Groove.

FA. R.Neath, S.Quinton 01/Apr/2013.

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Magic Flute

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Penally West)

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