3 pitches.
Pitch 1 (11) ** 50m.This pitch serves mainly as an approach pitch to Stage Ledge where the best climbing starts.
Scramble about 7m up the vegetated blocky ramp (1 bolt for protection) heading slightly right. Where the ramp abuts against steep rock, traverse 2m right across a short steep face on good hand holds (2 bolts) then climb 1m up a crack onto a large vegetated ledge. Walk right for 5m then scramble up an obvious right diagonal blocky line for 20m through black broken rock (4 bolts), passing below the overhangs that undercut 'Stage Ledge' above, until a large ledge is reached on yellow rock. Walk 2m right and clamber up 2½ m to a second large ledge. Scramble 7m diagonally up and back left to a black arête that runs for 7m up to the right hand end of 'Stage Ledge'. Climb up left around this arête and up an open book (3 bolts) to 'Stage Ledge'. Now that you are on the "Stage", you will have acquired an audience on the viewing platform above!
Pitch 2 (20) *** 27m.From the middle of Stage Ledge climb the recess for about 12m until just below a vertical rock fin. Move 1½ m left into another recess and using crimper holds and smearing on the adjacent left nose work your way up (crux). Continue straight up (passing the stance on Encore to your left) then follow a series of steps up diagonally right to a comfortable stance on a ledge, big enough for two people to sit on. This pitch involves some awkward friction moves with rounded holds on good rock.
Pitch 3 (18) ***** 25m. From the stance climb up diagonally right to balance on a small crescent shaped ledge on the rounded arête. Make one more move up to the right then traverse back left for 3m and continue diagonally left up the headwall to reach the base of a right tending recess, which is followed to a ledge. Climb the open book above exiting to the right. This pitch is absolutely superb! The rock is excellent with very positive holds and interesting moves. The exposed position right next to the thundering falls makes for a sensational line!
Comments: This was the first route opened on the main face and it has become a classic. It follows the most natural line and provides an excellent introduction for climbers new to this venue. The nature of the rock and character of the climbing change with each pitch. Pitch 1 is actually better than it appears from below, but it is mainly scrambling on poor rock and has little aesthetic merit from a sport climbing point of view. However when linked with pitches 2 and 3 it enables one to walk to the base of Howick Falls and climb them completely from bottom to top providing a very satisfying 3 pitch climbing adventure experience on a 95m high wall, in close proximity to Pietermaritzburg and Durban. The diagonal line chosen for pitch 1 avoids the wet rock down on the right and protects the belayer from loose rocks perched on ledges that could be dislodged by the climber or the rope.
Scramble about 7m up the vegetated blocky ramp (1 bolt for protection) heading slightly right. Where the ramp abuts against steep rock, traverse 2m right across a short steep face on good hand holds (2 bolts) then climb 1m up a crack onto a large vegetated ledge. Walk right for 5m then scramble up an obvious right diagonal blocky line for 20m through black broken rock (4 bolts), passing below the overhangs that undercut 'Stage Ledge' above, until a large ledge is reached on yellow rock. Walk 2m right and clamber up 2½ m to a second large ledge. Scramble 7m diagonally up and back left to a black arête that runs for 7m up to the right hand end of 'Stage Ledge'. Climb up left around this arête and up an open book (3 bolts) to 'Stage Ledge'. Now that you are on the "Stage", you will have acquired an audience on the viewing platform above!
Pitch 2 (20) *** 27m.From the middle of Stage Ledge climb the recess for about 12m until just below a vertical rock fin. Move 1½ m left into another recess and using crimper holds and smearing on the adjacent left nose work your way up (crux). Continue straight up (passing the stance on Encore to your left) then follow a series of steps up diagonally right to a comfortable stance on a ledge, big enough for two people to sit on. This pitch involves some awkward friction moves with rounded holds on good rock.
Pitch 3 (18) ***** 25m. From the stance climb up diagonally right to balance on a small crescent shaped ledge on the rounded arête. Make one more move up to the right then traverse back left for 3m and continue diagonally left up the headwall to reach the base of a right tending recess, which is followed to a ledge. Climb the open book above exiting to the right. This pitch is absolutely superb! The rock is excellent with very positive holds and interesting moves. The exposed position right next to the thundering falls makes for a sensational line!
Comments: This was the first route opened on the main face and it has become a classic. It follows the most natural line and provides an excellent introduction for climbers new to this venue. The nature of the rock and character of the climbing change with each pitch. Pitch 1 is actually better than it appears from below, but it is mainly scrambling on poor rock and has little aesthetic merit from a sport climbing point of view. However when linked with pitches 2 and 3 it enables one to walk to the base of Howick Falls and climb them completely from bottom to top providing a very satisfying 3 pitch climbing adventure experience on a 95m high wall, in close proximity to Pietermaritzburg and Durban. The diagonal line chosen for pitch 1 avoids the wet rock down on the right and protects the belayer from loose rocks perched on ledges that could be dislodged by the climber or the rope.
Anthony van Tonder and Mark Misselhorn 31/Aug/2003.
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Route of Interest
Woza Xhosa
Grade: 20 ***
(Umgeni Valley)