UKC

Restricted Access

Ementhal Zawn - birds have Fledged so access can be returned for 2023. 

from 15/06/2023 to 31/07/2023

Easy access  but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting  birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.

Refer to current guide book (Gogarth South by Ground Up) for indivdual seasonal route access info - however these have been slightly amended for 2018. The dates for each section are different due to the different bird species present :-

Seasonal restrictions apply to the following cliffs and routes :

Botox Zawn - restriction for "Salute of the Tengu" to "RAF Brown Slab" Feb 1st to June 30th. 

One Stack Zawn - Restriction amended and reduced to include "Angel of the West" only (nest is in the cave to the right. Feb 1st to June 30th.

Anvil Porus Area - as in guidebook, All routes restricted, Feb 1st to July 31st (Razorbill Colony) 

Housetrap Zawn - as in guidebook, the whole zawn is restricted due to nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th.

Pooh Bay - as in guidebook - Nesting Choughs, Feb 1st to June 30th.

Dichotomous Wall- as in guidebook, nesting Choughs Feb 1st to June 30th. 

The Fortress (Dinas) - as in guidebook  2 pairs of Choughs nesting here Feb 1st to June 30th. 

30m. This is a bit of an eliminate but once started feels like a natural line and is essentially a direct on on One Step Beyond. Start as for One Step Beyond and move down and left to gain a prominent spike. The head directly up the steep wall with your left hand on jugs. After about 6m you can gain the easier groove on the left and place some gear. If you carry straight up here it is E2 but the brave will swing back right and take the next steep section to gain the top of One Step Beyond at the end of its traverse.

S.Lake, M.Reeves 29/Jul/2017.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Reeve 14 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I assume where the description currently states "down and left to a spike", it means "down and right...", otherwise you'd just be back at the stance
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I assume where the description currently states "down and left to a spike", it means "down and right...", otherwise you'd just be back at the stance

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Guidebooks for The Range

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
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Route of Interest
Blue Remembered Hills

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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