Rockfax Description
A steep and uncompromising line through the central recess on the wall. It starts with a lot of fixed gear but this diminishes as you get higher so take a trad rack. The belays are fixed and it is worth about E4. Descent by abseil is awkward due to the wandering nature of the route.
1) 5b, 65m, 2) 6a+, 30m, 3) 6b+, 25m, 4) 5c, 40m.
5) 6a+, 15m, 6) 6b+, 25m, 7) 6c, 30m. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
GEAR 60m twin ropes for the abseil, a set of nuts and friends (small and medium sized). Kevlar threads and slings. Helmet recommended. In spite of not having the prerequisites of a modern sport route this ascent deserves to be included for the beauty of its itinerary and the quality of the rock which is always excellent and easy to protect. the fist pitch is the only one to be entirely equipped, it climbs up using the line (a previous attempt) by unknown climbers (no news). The rest of the route has only equipped anchor points therefore good experience in backing up with pro is required.
DESENT P7-P5, P5-P3, P3-P1, P1-P0
M.Monaco and Tamagnini 25/Jun/2010.
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Grade: 6c ***
(Pizzo Monaco)