Due to the tilted nature of the huge rock platform at the base of the cliff, retreat from routes on the SW and S faces is only possible for 2 - 3 hours before or after low tide. Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. A large rock fall has affected some routes left of Surprise Attack.
2018 - another large rockfall has removed parts of routes in the 'Seafarers' area on the west side of the point.
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seaonal Restriction due to chough nesting: 'Nightmare on Lily Street' to 'Brain Drain' inclusive. This includes the Route 'Daydreams'.
Rockfax Description
A good line above a steep start giving some fine climbing in impressive territory. Start below a roof capped corner.
1) 5c, 15m. Climb up into the corner then force your way leftwards through the bulges (thread) to easier ground. Move up to the break to belay.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb a slim groove to the next break then move right to belay.
3) 5b, 15m. Escape up the slab and easier ground above. © Rockfax
FA. P.Donnithorne, N.Smith 09/Sep/2009.
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)