18m.

Rockfax Description
Typical of the wall with an unusual crossover crux. Linking into Encore Magnifique gives a quality 7b. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb wall to left of the obvious arete, hard

A Sharp, P Lewis 18/Jul/1989

Ticklists

Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List, Twenty in Twenty19

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
seweryn 1 Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 12 May Lead dog
richsmithinbristol 12 May Lead RP 3rp. Didn’t use the cross through. Seems like there are several other methods of making the crux span. Really technical route all the way. Harsh for the grade.
3rp. Didn’t use the cross through. Seems like there are several other methods of making the crux span. Really technical route all the way. Harsh for the grade.
ericinbristol 5 May TR dog This is 7b. Can do to the crux in one and from just after the crux move to the top in one. Still can't do the crux move. I doubt the low cross-through method using the low left hand gaston will work for me. Did better with cross-through using high crimps - must try that again. Tried sharing the main crimp but that was too hard.
with vertigo
This is 7b. Can do to the crux in one and from just after the crux move to the top in one. Still can't do the crux move. I doubt the low cross-through method using the low left hand gaston will work for me. Did better with cross-through using high crimps - must try that again. Tried sharing the main crimp but that was too hard.
with vertigo
Tom92 1 May Lead RP
billb ?May Lead RP Small holds and very technical. Crux done with big deadpoint move off small right hand crimp. Great route!
Small holds and very technical. Crux done with big deadpoint move off small right hand crimp. Great route!
Hidden 13 Apr Lead RP
blaza1 1 Sep, 2018 Lead dog 2 goes at the end of the day, felt really hard
2 goes at the end of the day, felt really hard
mop449 30 Aug, 2018 Lead dog Tried to wire the crux, but could never manage it on RP.
Tried to wire the crux, but could never manage it on RP.
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2018 TR dog
MathewWright1998 21 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt It was amazing to repeat my first ever project and the very ignition to what started my psyche for climbing, this would get three stars anywhere! 7b without a doubt
with Lewis Edwards, Iona
It was amazing to repeat my first ever project and the very ignition to what started my psyche for climbing, this would get three stars anywhere! 7b without a doubt
with Lewis Edwards, Iona
pearson9596 16 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Nails
Nails
Hidden 9 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
emma1987 7 Jul, 2018 TR dog what a sandbag of a climb - none of us could figure out the crux section - the rest wasn't a push over either.
what a sandbag of a climb - none of us could figure out the crux section - the rest wasn't a push over either.
Sophie Nunn 7 Jul, 2018 Lead dog
mop449 30 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Really cool moves, but very hard.
Really cool moves, but very hard.
tommccluskey 9 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Foot slipped after the hard climbing on the flash - gutted!
with Jake West, Katka, rafaelfordgonzalez, Lucia
Foot slipped after the hard climbing on the flash - gutted!
with Jake West, Katka, rafaelfordgonzalez, Lucia
Hidden 3 Jun, 2018 TR dog
climb62 2 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
with Alex, rich
with Alex, rich
Petar Samkov 19 May, 2018 TR Nails !!!! Literally no easy moves at all , will be a longtime project that’s for sure.
Nails !!!! Literally no easy moves at all , will be a longtime project that’s for sure.
ericinbristol 17 May, 2018 TR dnf Did not do at all well on this today.
Did not do at all well on this today.
peaches69 7 May, 2018 Lead RP Sandbag at 7a+ Did crossover method. after went into undercut with left-hand and used slopper as intermediate for right hand.
Sandbag at 7a+ Did crossover method. after went into undercut with left-hand and used slopper as intermediate for right hand.
Hidden 6 May, 2018 Lead dog
julesmckim 3 Nov, 2017 Lead dnf Desperate! Glad to hear the consensus is 7b. Found the second clip tricky then the move up to the traverse really hard. Didnt do any crossovering, low layaways and a slap for a crimp then jug. Move above shut me down. Not a good choice for the end if the day!
with Alex Nichols
Desperate! Glad to hear the consensus is 7b. Found the second clip tricky then the move up to the traverse really hard. Didnt do any crossovering, low layaways and a slap for a crimp then jug. Move above shut me down. Not a good choice for the end if the day!
with Alex Nichols
ericinbristol 25 Jul, 2017 TR dnf 7b. Didn't work out the crux traverse move or various bits above that.
7b. Didn't work out the crux traverse move or various bits above that.
Wayne.Gaudin 9 Jul, 2017 Lead dog Wow that was hard! Much harder than Get Flossed. Cross over was easier for me but the sloper move afterwards shut me down. The moves above arn't easy either.
with James
Wow that was hard! Much harder than Get Flossed. Cross over was easier for me but the sloper move afterwards shut me down. The moves above arn't easy either.
with James
Wayne.Gaudin 9 Jul, 2017 TR dog Clean to the cross over but the long move off the sloper still feels nails. Maybe I'm just weak on slopers. Come back when I'm stronger.
with James
Clean to the cross over but the long move off the sloper still feels nails. Maybe I'm just weak on slopers. Come back when I'm stronger.
with James
tobydunford 8 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
with Myles jordan
with Myles jordan
Hidden 9 May, 2017 TR
Hidden 7 May, 2017 Lead dog
afrosam 22 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Really good sequence from 3rd to 4th. 7b for me
with TomJ
Really good sequence from 3rd to 4th. 7b for me
with TomJ
caradogr 2 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Enjoyed this climb, felt hard at first, however learning the sequence means you can rest after each of the hard moves. The crossover need not be a crossover, i did it both ways and felt the go again was certainly easier.
with Jon B
Enjoyed this climb, felt hard at first, however learning the sequence means you can rest after each of the hard moves. The crossover need not be a crossover, i did it both ways and felt the go again was certainly easier.
with Jon B
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 2nd dnf
waynekinrade ??, 2017 Lead RP
Steve Lewis 8 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf
Tomas P 1 Aug, 2015 Lead RP Really enjoyed working this. 3rd go after taking a big fall pass the third clip. Definitely worth a couple of stars
with Kris
Really enjoyed working this. 3rd go after taking a big fall pass the third clip. Definitely worth a couple of stars
with Kris
Neil 23 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf
MathewWright1998 ??, 2015 Lead RP Brilliant Route. Three sessions and my first 7a+. Felt more like 7b to me.
with Lewis Edwards
Brilliant Route. Three sessions and my first 7a+. Felt more like 7b to me.
with Lewis Edwards
Cheese Monkey 25 Jul, 2014 TR dog Nails. Lovely lower moves then got pissed off I couldn't work out the crux. Got some idea now
Nails. Lovely lower moves then got pissed off I couldn't work out the crux. Got some idea now
Jon_Warner 1 Jun, 2014 Lead dog s-a-n-d-b-a-g...... Encore felt easier.
with Jenni
s-a-n-d-b-a-g...... Encore felt easier.
with Jenni
Hidden 3 Aug, 2013 TR dog
Michelle W 8 Jul, 2013 TR RP
with karoo88
with karoo88
Michelle W 26 Jun, 2013 Lead dog
with karoo88
with karoo88
Hidden 30 Jul, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 30 Jul, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 19 Jul, 2012 Lead dnf
Tim W 19 Jul, 2012 Lead dnf
with dave657
with dave657
guy xavier percival 19 Jun, 2012 Lead RP Superb route 7b surely
with paul
Superb route 7b surely
with paul
Maxim2023 ?Apr, 2012 Lead dog
with Kate Tarrant
with Kate Tarrant
Dan_Carroll 25 Mar, 2012 Lead RP brilliant. probably low end 7b.
with Mateusz
brilliant. probably low end 7b.
with Mateusz
Stone Muppet 1 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf "Oh so that undercut's still here. I never used it before, thought it was a bit shonky, but I guess if it's still here it can't be that bad." Cue large fall. You might find it if you search the bushes.
"Oh so that undercut's still here. I never used it before, thought it was a bit shonky, but I guess if it's still here it can't be that bad." Cue large fall. You might find it if you search the bushes.
Dan Jenkin 14 Aug, 2011 Lead RP 2nd go, crimpy & technical with some long reaches, quality. 7b
2nd go, crimpy & technical with some long reaches, quality. 7b
mikeshewring 24 Jul, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 TR dog
mikeshewring 29 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
Stone Muppet 15 Jun, 2011 Lead dog Going to need some stamina...
with dc
Going to need some stamina...
with dc
Stone Muppet 19 May, 2011 Lead dog Hard. Must warm up next time. Might take a few sessions!
with ceri's mate ben
Hard. Must warm up next time. Might take a few sessions!
with ceri's mate ben
westyb3 2 May, 2011 Lead RP 2nd go...
with Alan Sarhan
2nd go...
with Alan Sarhan
Caspian Johnson 27 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf
tombeasley 6 Jun, 2010 Lead dog Very hard for the grade!
with Marina, Chris Cleave
Very hard for the grade!
with Marina, Chris Cleave
MorganPreece 9 May, 2010 Lead β Ummmmmm sort ov did it! Gota be 7b. Cant belive i fell off about to clip the chain. Classic gap sandbag! Has anyone ever flashed this!!
with Monty
Ummmmmm sort ov did it! Gota be 7b. Cant belive i fell off about to clip the chain. Classic gap sandbag! Has anyone ever flashed this!!
with Monty
Hidden ??, 2010 -
chris sm 19 Aug, 2009 Lead dog Hmmm, very hard crossover move on tiny crimps.
with Tim M
Hmmm, very hard crossover move on tiny crimps.
with Tim M
Tim M 19 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf
Paz 28 Jun, 2009 Lead dog Damn Damn. Damn. Forgot sequence as missed a small crimp next to the good jug before the cross over, and by the time I was trying it properly I was just pinging off from grease.
with MT
Damn Damn. Damn. Forgot sequence as missed a small crimp next to the good jug before the cross over, and by the time I was trying it properly I was just pinging off from grease.
with MT
DafSWMC 16 Jun, 2009 Lead RP Had to come back after previously falling from the last move. Great conditions this evening.
with gejones
Had to come back after previously falling from the last move. Great conditions this evening.
with gejones
Hidden 30 May, 2009 Lead dog
Wil Treasure ??, 2009 TR
njlyons 19 Oct, 2008 Lead dnf
Paz 25 Sep, 2008 Lead dog Tried dynoing direct bout 4 times, and realised I could do the cross over without much difficulty all too late.
with MT
Tried dynoing direct bout 4 times, and realised I could do the cross over without much difficulty all too late.
with MT
gejones 13 Sep, 2008 Lead RP Got it first go after failing to onsight about 3 months ago. Had a couple of unsuccessful goes at working the crux that day before lowering. Looks like someone has been working the route recently, all the key holds were chalked and ticked making it easier for me this time.
with Sean
Got it first go after failing to onsight about 3 months ago. Had a couple of unsuccessful goes at working the crux that day before lowering. Looks like someone has been working the route recently, all the key holds were chalked and ticked making it easier for me this time.
with Sean
Hidden 7 Sep, 2008 Lead RP
climbergg 26 Jul, 2008 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M 26 Jul, 2008 Lead dog
Hidden 20 Jun, 2008 TR dog
Billg ?Sep, 2006 Lead RP
shoulders 30 Jul, 2006 Lead
with ben, PETE J, dai
with ben, PETE J, dai
Bux 14 Jul, 2006 Lead dog
with Charles Romijn
with Charles Romijn
W d c ??, 2005 -
goi.ashmore 9 Jul, 1994 Lead RP
with Simon Coles
with Simon Coles
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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set