54m, 2 pitches.
Pitch 1 (20): Start near the left end of 'Stage Ledge' and climb up the open book/recess for 20m to a stance on top of a pillar on the right. Good rock with interesting footwork using many stemming moves on sloping footholds with good friction.
Pitch 2 (23): Climb up the arête above the anchors for 7m then traverse left into the open book and continue up this for 3m. Traverse right 2m (crux) then up and back left to continue up the middle of the face to the top. Excellent rock with positive holds. The crux can be aided by pulling on a bolt, reducing the grade to 20/A0.
Note that you need 16 quick-draws to climb this route, as you need to be able to clip both the top and the bottom anchors when climbing pitch 2. From the stance at the top of pitch 1 it is possible to move right and continue up the upper part of Stagefright. All the bolts are 100mm-long stainless steel expansion bolts seated to their full length in the rock.
Pitch 2 (23): Climb up the arête above the anchors for 7m then traverse left into the open book and continue up this for 3m. Traverse right 2m (crux) then up and back left to continue up the middle of the face to the top. Excellent rock with positive holds. The crux can be aided by pulling on a bolt, reducing the grade to 20/A0.
Note that you need 16 quick-draws to climb this route, as you need to be able to clip both the top and the bottom anchors when climbing pitch 2. From the stance at the top of pitch 1 it is possible to move right and continue up the upper part of Stagefright. All the bolts are 100mm-long stainless steel expansion bolts seated to their full length in the rock.
Mark Misselhorn & Anthony van Tonder 24/Sep/2003.
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Route of Interest
With added what what
Grade: 23 ***
(Umgeni Valley)