Restricted Access
Gowbarrow is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and is subject to a Code of Practice agreed between the National Trust, Natural England and the British Mountaineering Council. The Code of Practice is for groups of climbers (individuals are not affected) and states that:
- Group use of the crag is confined to the Lower Buttress.
- All belaying is to be from the bottom of the buttress
- Group movement is confined to the immediate area at the bottom of the buttress.
- A group booking system is operated by Ullswater Outward Bound School to prevent overcrowding. Following rockfall in December 2005, the National Trust strongly recommend leaders of groups arrange an on-site briefing with Ullswater Outward Bound who are willing to share their experience and site specific risk assessments.
Due care with the rock should be taken as there have been rock falls.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Unsigned restriction for nesting peregrines. The restriction applies to The Upper Buttress only - the Middle and Lower Buttreses remain open.
24m.
Start from ledges below and right of the large oak at the right end of the grassy bay. A straightforward abseil from the tree at the top right of the crag was used on the first ascent. It is located between Gowbarrow Bastion (HVS) and the second pitch of Gowbarrow Buttress (VS). It shares part of P3 of the Girdle Traverse (HVS).
This climb ascends corner and groove system on the left of the steep headwall that is the centrepiece of the upper crag. The groove features some technical moves on rough rock.
From the right end of the block covered ledge boldly gain the short slab using a layaway (junction with the Girdle Traverse P3). Move left into the corner and ascend its left wall steeply until a ledge is reached on the left (as for the Girdle Traverse P3). Fix runners and make a rising traverse rightwards to a shallow gear slot in the groove. Move back up and left (crux) until easier rock leads to the top.
This climb ascends corner and groove system on the left of the steep headwall that is the centrepiece of the upper crag. The groove features some technical moves on rough rock.
From the right end of the block covered ledge boldly gain the short slab using a layaway (junction with the Girdle Traverse P3). Move left into the corner and ascend its left wall steeply until a ledge is reached on the left (as for the Girdle Traverse P3). Fix runners and make a rising traverse rightwards to a shallow gear slot in the groove. Move back up and left (crux) until easier rock leads to the top.
M March, K Roberts, P Rigby 02/Sep/2017.
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Route of Interest
The Niche
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Falcon Crag)