Rockfax Description
II, 220m, 2 - 3 hours. This is a popular route and rightly so. It provides a high mountain feel without requiring huge commitment or any difficult climbing, plus the view from the Tour Ronde is one of the best in the Alps. The most popular start is via the East Face though conditions can force you to choose the slightly longer, but equally good, option of following the full Southeast Ridge.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeux and descend west to pass under the Aiguille de Toule North Face. Continue in this direction and begin the gradual climb towards the Col d'Entréves. The route starts 500m before the col.
1) If there is sufficient snow and the temperature is not too high (rockfall risk in this situation), climb the 120m snow couloir on the Tour Ronde East Face to reach the Southeast Ridge. The couloir is 45 degrees at it's steepest point and can be abseiled in descent if conditions are poor.
2) Once on the ridge, conditions will dictate the exact line taken but generally it is possible to (more or less) follow the crest to reach the final summit tower.
3) This is only 20m or so of easy slab climbing and takes you to the famous Madonna which lives on the top. The view, especially that towards the Brenva face of Mont Blanc, is superb.
Descent - Reverse the route. It is possible to make a series of 50m abseils down the couloir on the east face if snow conditions are too poor for downclimbing. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

bennys89 23/Jul AltLd O/S
with perrys
perrys 23/Jul AltLd O/S
pete1993 15/Jul AltLd O/S

down climbed after the bernezat spur, loose, not the easiest route finding with no one else on it and after a long day, no snow after the top arete so did the whole ridge

with Ben, David
Hidden 17/Jun AltLd O/S
Mr. K 28/Dec/16 AltLd

In descent. One abseil off in situ bolt and cam.

Rob Pitt 04/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

In descent

with Guy, Lou
benwmorgan 12/Aug/16 AltLd
mike.moss 12/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
bennys89 ?/Aug/16 -
Hidden 27/Jul/16 AltLd
wchan 25/Jul/16 -
Hidden 18/Jul/16 -
Tim Sparrow 17/Jul/16 -
with Geoff Thomas
Michael 16/Jul/16 -
Mr Fuller 07/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

In descent. Hard work in the melting snow and when tired. Abseiled down the second couloir on the left (when descending) in four abs to the bergshrund.

with Scott
Gibbo 17/May/16 AltLd
with Rich Emerson
QuentinSu ?/Dec/15 -

descent after Gervasutti

Hidden 27/Sep/15 -
Hidden 26/Aug/15 AltLd
HP9 15/Jul/15 -
with Tomo cesen
Avinash Aujayeb 12/Jul/15 -
with ales cesen
Mr Spoons 28/Jun/15 AltLd
with Vangelis Stavroulakis
nige pacer 20/Apr/15 -
with Andy Houseman
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
easers 31/Oct/14 -


with Doug
Dougbart 30/Oct/14 -

in decent

with Iain
Lancer 30/Oct/14 AltLd

A great route.

with Charlie Burbridge
John Procter 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with tom humphreys
augustus trout 05/Sep/14 Solo O/S

In decent

Hidden 17/Aug/14 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/14 -
alastairbegley 12/Aug/14 -

Normal route in descent.

Slick 12/Aug/14 -
Timothy Miller 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
jonleighton 08/Aug/14 -
Roberttaylor 06/Aug/14 Solo O/S

In descent after nf, took the shorter route down as opposed to doing the whole ridge.

Hidden 05/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Richard Alderton 18/Jul/14 -

Normal route up, SE ridge down. 0445 from the hut, reached the ridge just ad the sun was hitting it. Wouldn't want to be any later. Route funding on the descent a little trick. Superb route !

with Ellie
EllieWoods 18/Jul/14 -

Descent. Lots of ab tat useful.

with Rich
Hidden 15/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/14 -
Olli-C 17/Jun/14 Solo
joe.91 17/Jun/14 Solo O/S

In descent.

Hidden 13/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
Hidden 21/Mar/14 Solo
mike mo ??/2014 -
DaveThexton ??/2014 Lead
with Tim
Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead
PtereBradley ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Phil Dowthwaite
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
Hidden 18/Jun/13 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd dnf
walts4 ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
Hidden 21/Aug/12 -
Hidden 08/Aug/12 -
Hidden 08/Aug/12 -
Kirill 10/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Got about a third way up, Bill wasn't happy to continue, turned back.

with Bill Nygaard
Finn Curry 03/Jul/12 2nd
with Paul Warnock
AdamH 29/Jun/12 -

Bailed half way along the ridge due to poor snow condition.

Ben Briggs 13/May/12 Solo

Ski descent.

with Cedric, Tom, Brendan
Hidden 29/Aug/11 AltLd
guy757 23/Aug/11 -
The Bad Cough 02/Aug/11 AltLd O/S


jon22 02/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden 01/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
efetunc ?/Aug/11 AltLd dnf

Weather closed in, we took the cable car down to Italy

Teappleby ?/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
with mum, Sarah, dad
Hidden 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/11 AltLd
mattgrange 04/Jul/11 -

With Andy Perkins and Trudi Smith. Cut out the ridge by going across the bergschrund and up a steep gully on the east face, descent by normal route. Would like to try the North Face, looked bloody steep though!

Hidden 27/Jun/11 Lead
andybuckley ?/Sep/10 -

Fairly straightforward... after an uncertain start, but took a while partially due to a fun diversion up a pillar when we thought there was less ridge remaining than turned out to be the case! Back to the Torino Hut in time for tea

with Alasdair Young, Tom Whipple
Pat-H 13/Aug/10 2nd
LozM 18/Jul/10 -
with Mark J
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Hidden 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/09 AltLd dnf
dannymoo99 09/Jul/09 Solo
BorisVBlade 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
davidbird63 ?/Jul/09 -

With guide. Great day. Must do it again unguided

Stuart Johnston ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Neil D ?/Jul/09 AltLd rpt
Hidden 23/Mar/09 Lead
JamesRoddie ??/2009 -
with Alex Roddie
andrewb ??/2009 -
with SteveE
Hidden 14/Aug/08 -
Only a hill 19/Jul/08 AltLd β

First on route, completed in guidebook time. The descent down the couloir was loose and sugary (abseiled three pitches). A cracking route.

with James Roddie
featuresforfeet 19/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Neil D ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
robertporter ?/Jul/08 -
Hidden 26/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
cat22 ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Rick E, Martin G
Hidden 07/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/07 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
industrialiceman 19/Jun/07 AltLd
Tobias at Home 17/Sep/06 Solo dnf

lots of fresh snow, snowed all morning. decideded against ridge cos couldn't see where the edge between snow and cloud. gave up on direct mixed version cos couldn't see where it went. looked at another couloir but looked crap so went home.

KeithW 05/Sep/06 -

Nth Face well out of condition. Good ridge to follow, turn the gendarmes though or it's much harder!

with Nick Ferguson
Hidden 07/Jun/06 AltLd
nickdonohue ?/Jun/06 -

In descent after the N face. Narrowly avoided being brained by a fist sized lump of rock.

with Dan Pike
Ed Saint ?/Jul/04 -
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
wherewelf ?/Jul/03 -
Hidden 30/Jul/02 AltLd
Andy Clarke 30/Jul/02 Lead

A very pleasant route. Dave still recovering from altitude sickness and third degree sunburn induced by one of my grand plans going wrong resulting in him walking mapless across the Vallee Blanche in the afternoon sun after doing Tacul. Seemed foolproof at the time!

Hidden ?/Jun/02 AltLd
rlrs ?/Sep/00 AltLd dnf
with RN, NM/N, Antony Mariani
Antony Mariani ?/Sep/00 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd
tompercy 17/Jul/95 AltLd

In descent.

with Amos Preminger
crossleysm ??/1995 -

In descent

Sime64 ?/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
with Gill
Hidden ?/Aug/88 2nd
thlcr1 ?/Sep/85 AltLd

Descent after North Face. Big storm hit us with white out conditions and high winds. Couldn't find route past pinnacles and decided to abb down east face from some insitu tat just before pinnacles. Many abb's with increasingly poor anchors in nil visibility made it a bit nerve wracking. Glad when we got down!

Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden ?/Aug/76 AltLd
jon ?/Jul/75 -
with Pete
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