Rockfax Description
This is an unusual via ferrata without any real technical difficulties but with a good amount of exposure. The majority of the climbing takes place on steep ladders and thus there isn't a huge amount of contact time with the rock. However, the situations are superb and the panorama from the summit is undoubtedly one of the best in the Dolomites, providing an excellent vantage point to view the Tre Cime.
The approach is long but this does help alleviate some of the traffic, a necessary characteristic as the descent reverses the route and two way ladder traffic can be tedious at best.
Approach - The usual approach is via Rifugio Fonda Savio. The most direct approach to the rifugio is via path 115 from the teleferica car park (see page 439 ).
For a longer but more scenic approach, take the Col de Varda chairlift from the southern end of Lago di Misurina. From the top of the chairlift take path 117 northeast along the Sentiero Bonacossa. This leads uphill on a good path for 10 minutes until you reach a scree gully protected by a wire. Ascend this to reach Forcella Misurina. From here descend the scree gully on the other side with intermittent wire for protection. After 20 minutes you reach a junction with path 118 (possible alternative route off right) but continue on path 117 towards Forcella Diavolo and Rifugio Fonda Savio. Ascend steeply past three ladders and some wire to reach Forcella Diavolo in 20 minutes. This is the start of the South Face via East Face of Torre Leo route and the 'step' between Torre Leo on the left and Torre del Diavolo can clearly be seen. Continue on path 117 descending the scree gully on the opposite (north) side of the Forcella, passing Il Gobbo. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Quite a steep VF for the grade.

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