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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
A tight line but with variety of testing climbing. Ascend the small right-facing corner just right of the low sapling and then the leaning wall above on its left to reach slabby ground. Now head straight up past a peg at an overlap and onto pockets to join and finish up The Laughing Cavaliers. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Yaz Kinebas | 17 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: There\'s a huge detached tree trunk at the top tangled up in the canopy. It\'s attached to the anchor with a fixed line to keep it from going all the way down, but it would hurt anyone at the anchor very badly if it fell. I backed the anchor up to the tree behind it in case the fall damages it, but what it really needs is an empty crag and a good kick to clear the top. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There's a huge detached tree trunk at the top tangled up in the canopy. It's attached to the anchor with a fixed line to keep it from going all the way down, but it would hurt anyone at the anchor very badly if it fell. I backed the anchor up to the tree behind it in case the fall damages it, but what it really needs is an empty crag and a good kick to clear the top. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Vulture Squadron
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)