Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 6 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest on the main crag and the restriction covers the whole crag. If the birds fail to nest or fledge early then the restriction wil be lifted early and noted here.
Rockfax Description
The slab at the start is a bit eliminate, although crossing both bulges makes up for that. Start by a groove.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb a groove and step right above one small overlap and below another. A thin crack leads to a niche below the small left-facing groove. Climb the groove then move right onto the slab below the main diagonal overlap. Move up and right above the overlap to another steepening. Arrange plenty of gear and commit to rock up onto a nose on the right on the lip. Continue up to a peg belay below a corner with a capping roof.
2) 5b, 8m. Move up the corner to a tongue of rock. Arrange gear and commit to powerful layback moves to gain the slab above. Finish more easily. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Delectable slab climbing steepens to an airy finish. Start at a short slabby groove 8 metres right of the detached rib.
1 30m 5a Climb the groove and step right to a small roof. A thin crack leads to a recess below the curved edge of a shield of slab. Move up then rightwards onto the edge, and climb delicately to the left end of the overhangs, to meet Groove Slab. Now step right onto the lip, climb a groove in the steep wall, then easier rock to belays at a corner in the upper overhangs.
2 10m 5a Move up the corner to a rock finger. Pull out rightwards onto the edge and climb to the top. Belay well back, at twin bollards.
A Leary, J Appleby, M Bailey 20/Oct/2012.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Marti999 | 5 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Do in one pitch with careful rope work, as belay is not great. It\'s a little bold low down but top move is not that hard 5a | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Do in one pitch with careful rope work, as belay is not great. It's a little bold low down but top move is not that hard 5a |
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Guidebooks for Craig Dinas (Betws Y Coed)
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