UKC

Access Banned

Access to Foredale quarry was always a sensitive issue with the local farmer and several of the owners of cottages passed on the previously agreed access route. The ever increasing popularity of the quarry brought these issues to a head in 2011 with the farmer withdrawing his permission for climbers to cross his land on the hillside above the farm and adjacent to Foredale Cottages. The farmer, at this time, was not the owner of the quarry itself but in 2014 he acquired full ownership of the land and continues to oppose climbing there.

Most of the upper perimeter of the quarry, except the land on the hillside directly below on the old access route, is mapped as Access Land under the CRoW Act..  Climbers entering the quarry over the access land from above since 2011 have generally reported no challenge. One group were approached by a young farmer (not, apparently, the one who imposed the ban) who told them that climbing was not permitted because of nesting birds and rare plants but after a polite discussion they were allowed to continue climbing.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are no restrictions in place for nesting birds or protected flora.

A good line weaving its way up good rock between some dubious flakes and shattered corners. Start 5 metres right of the prominent
cave and gain a grassy ledge below a steep narrow groove. Climb this and step left onto the slab taking a direct line until a line of
flakes can be crossed leftwards to a good foothold below a short steep wall. Climb up and then left again onto a good ledge and skirt
the overlaps above by a short traverse until a steep slab leads back up and right to the lower-off.

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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Wheels On Fire

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Robin Proctor's Scar)

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