SMC Description
40m. D.Cuthbertson, P.Hunter, 1980 (P1); D.Cuthbertson, D.Jamieson, 1976 (P2)
A natural combination of pitches on each tier. Both are serious and high in the grade. Start at the base of the slab as for The End.
1. 18m 5c Climb the slab direct to the overlap. Climb a very thin flake in the smooth rock above to snatch out right for tiny sharp holds leading right to the arete. Stand on a small ledge, then climb the right side of the arete to the ledge.
2. 22m 5b Down to the right is a right-facing tapering corner. Climb this, step left and up over the lip of the steep wall onto the slab. Climb directly to a roof and pull over at a flake right of The End.
Variation: Slipper Starter E4 6a
On the first pitch, instead of moving right round the arete, continue up to a small stance and undercut. Bold moves allow a finish directly up the hanging slab above. © SMC

FA. S.Galbraith, R.Knack, Apr 2001 15/Jun/2001

Hidden 29/Sep Lead
Euan S 07/Jun Lead O/S
Heather Milne 07/Jun 2nd
with Euan S
mskngch 04/May Lead
with Kirill
Kirill 04/May 2nd
with mskngch
MrRiley 15/Apr TR O/S

first pitch, superb, no gear on the slab section though, E3?

with Joe Saunders
Hidden 23/Apr/17 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/17 Solo O/S
annep 04/Apr/17 2nd
mzchambers 04/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches.

with annep
sophiecb 26/Mar/17 2nd
with Dr Toph
Dr Toph 26/Mar/17 Lead rpt
CaelanB 20/Oct/16 2nd β

first pitch only

Angus Rankin 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, great climb!

with Chris
canadianclimber 08/Jul/16 2nd β
jonskippy 08/Jul/16 Lead

Abseiled down to check how much gear was on the first pitch, then lead it! P2 was onsight although equally scary. E2 5b?

lorens holm 15/May/16 2nd O/S

First pitch only. Fantastic sequence. Good gear in the break below the hard flake/slab moves. Excellent lead Oscar!

with Oscar
Colin Dyer 07/May/16 AltLd

With side runners on the first pitch, without them this is death. Hard going. E3,5c?

with Swampi
Dr Toph 17/Apr/16 AltLd rpt

Frazer led P1, good effort.

with Fraser
salix 17/Apr/16 AltLd

Lead first pitch, Vicky second. Both great pitches, both bold. Holds on 1st were sharp in the cold wind.

with Vicky, Frazer, Dr Toph
EmmaAtkinson 14/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Rory Brown
Hidden 14/Apr/16 Lead
Kevin Woods 28/Mar/16 Lead O/S

P2 up The End

with Iain Smith
Hidden 23/Mar/16 AltLd
Martin Bagshaw 23/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Dr Toph 20/Mar/16 Solo rpt

First pitch is still my favourite at Polney

pdamann 09/Aug/15 2nd dog

P1 was fine, but struggled to get started on P2.

tomhull 22/May/15 Lead O/S
with Stephen Cumberland
French Erick 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 21/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
tom.e 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Bottom pitch only

with DannyC
Hidden 01/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Lawrie Brand 02/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
jfmchivall 02/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
SuperMike64 01/Jun/12 Lead dog

fell once just after stepping on to the first roof

tim newton 21/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with ross
Chris wilson 18/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead
isi_o 18/Mar/12 2nd

Top pitch of this after coming up Crash Test Dummies

with Ewan Rodger
Tim Hamlet ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Macleod 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

lead second pitch

with dominic
jazzyjackson 22/Aug/11 2nd
stugreen75 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

led both pitches with Jase

Lasma 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Dr Toph 10/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

Led P1, and went as far directly up the slab as possible, just to see. Only one bit of gear though, so the superdirect finish will have to wait for another day...;)

Scottish78 ??/2011 -
drew8connelly ??/2011 -
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Lawrie Brand 14/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Dougie Harvey 14/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hay ?/Feb/09 2nd

2nd on both pitches. Thank God.

with Neil Carnegie
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 Lead
with Chris Cracknell,Various
mshorter 26/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with alex
Chad123 21/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

Not quite sure of line on first pitch, two variations after first overlap. (did them both!) Second pitch is fairly bold but on big holds... Route is good but has the eliminate feel to it..

with Viv
Hidden 06/May/08 Lead
Dr Toph ??/2008 Lead O/S

The slab pitch is lovely, the beginning of the second pitch is well awkward...

with Ally Hill
CalumC ??/2008 -
RobScotland 02/Sep/07 2nd dog

No gear on demanding second pitch. Fell off on first part but got it second time.

with Dougie
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Sean Bell 27/Aug/06 2nd O/S
ali_robb ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Dr Toph ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
Cassidy 15/Sep/03 Solo
Hidden ?/Jul/02 Lead
Yourlead 24/May/01 TR

Top pitch only

greenroom ??/2001 Lead O/S
IanD353 ?/Mar/00 Lead O/S
with Ailsa
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Dave Kerr 26/Sep/99 Lead
with Brian Dickson, Martina Osterloh
Scottish78 01/Apr/99 Lead O/S

Did the direct finish in the late 90's I think, named it 'Slipper Starter' submitted it through Climber mag etc. Graded at E2 5c one piece of gear just below the hanging slab and a nasty side pull on the left. 2 moves to reach the top but bold moves!!!! enjoy!!!

with Loz White
Yourlead 27/Apr/97 TR


D Tempest 13/Aug/95 Lead
with Michelle
Yourlead 18/Jun/95 TR


Yourlead 15/Jun/95 TR


pingora 19/May/95 2nd O/S
with Cube
Yourlead 22/May/94 TR

Shunt - 1st Pitch Only

Marti999 ??/1994 Lead
whispering nic 31/Oct/93 -
with lionel
Yourlead 29/Jul/93 TR

Shunt - 1st Pitch only

Yourlead 20/Jun/93 TR


Yourlead 12/Jul/91 TR
with Alex Runciman
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd
Lone Rider ?/May/84 Solo O/S

Pretty necky with second pitch a bit damp. Mmmm!

Bruce Kerr 31/Aug/83 2nd
with Rab Young
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set