UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
12m.

Rockfax Description
Start up the wall and head leftward at a thin break to the main horizontal break. Climb up steeply past small overlaps to reach a good finger slot from where less pressing ground remains. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start at a tree. Climb up leftwards to the break. Make a couple of hard moves to reach a good finger slot and an easier finish at Blabba Mouth lower-off.

Rob Kingston, Matt Ward 25/Jun/1988.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , Ban-y-Gor Master , 6Cs with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
Longsufferingropeholder 28 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Tree???
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Tree???
ZacMoss 15 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: VERY loose blocks on this, the loosest and biggest frighteningly at the top just right of the chains. It didn't come out after much yarding but I can imagine it coming out soon.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: VERY loose blocks on this, the loosest and biggest frighteningly at the top just right of the chains. It didn't come out after much yarding but I can imagine it coming out soon.
Stuart Williams 24 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose stuff in the break and at the top. Not too bad and easy to avoid
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some loose stuff in the break and at the top. Not too bad and easy to avoid
LukePrime85 16 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Tough right side pull going to get left foot established for a big-ish move to the left.
Show beta
βeta: Tough right side pull going to get left foot established for a big-ish move to the left.

Logged Ascents

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Style of Ascent
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Toproped
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