25m. Takes a parallel line just left of One Fine Day, joining it briefly, before breaking out left on the headwall. Long quickdraws and careful placing needed to avoid rope-drag. May feel adventurous. A long route; tie a knot in the free end of the rope. At the anchors, savour the ‘butterfly moment’.

Mick Ward 20/Oct/2017

Ticklists

Portland NEW SPORT Routes since Rockfax Guide 2012

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Gazmataz 19 May Show βeta
βeta: Very loose rock 3/4 of the way up lots of holds breaking off
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very loose rock 3/4 of the way up lots of holds breaking off
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
BarwoodP 31 Aug Lead
with Scott Ruse, James Richards
with Scott Ruse, James Richards
Jamo23 24 Aug Lead O/S
Gazmataz 19 May Lead O/S Terrible route. Thought I was on fine day out but got this instead. 3/4 of the way up the route is just falling to pieces. It’s loose sedementary rock and it’s not going to get clean how ever many people climb it. The holds are all falling off. Mark took a big fall when both his foot and hand holds broke at the same time. Avoid!
Terrible route. Thought I was on fine day out but got this instead. 3/4 of the way up the route is just falling to pieces. It’s loose sedementary rock and it’s not going to get clean how ever many people climb it. The holds are all falling off. Mark took a big fall when both his foot and hand holds broke at the same time. Avoid!
KDhruev 26 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
David Staples 25 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Feb, 2018 TR dog
samparsons 24 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 17 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
Marti999 2 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S After pulling the starting jug off Shelley wall was a bit snappy but should clean up, good position. 60m rope needed
After pulling the starting jug off Shelley wall was a bit snappy but should clean up, good position. 60m rope needed
johnl 20 Oct, 2017 TR β Great positions, feels adventurous even on a top rope. The upper half on shelly rock is crunchy at the moment, climb with care. Should become really good with traffic.
with Adam Perrett, Mick Ward
Great positions, feels adventurous even on a top rope. The upper half on shelly rock is crunchy at the moment, climb with care. Should become really good with traffic.
with Adam Perrett, Mick Ward
4 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set