9m.

Rockfax Description
10m. The bulging nose gives an interesting and committing exercise in rounded grippings. Big gun, big bang. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Ascends the nose left of Maloja on a mix of jugs and slopers. Start 2m left of Maloja. Gain the ledge at 2m, then step left and pull through the overhanging nose.

Dave Musgrove & Jim Worthington 12/Mar/1974

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
TomatoPro 14 Feb Solo O/S VS in the guide! Haha defs more serious than Maloja right next to it, with or without gear. Mantle unnerving.
with noodle
VS in the guide! Haha defs more serious than Maloja right next to it, with or without gear. Mantle unnerving.
with noodle
stevo smith 9 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with Paul Alexander
with Paul Alexander
Jamie Brown 18 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S A big reach helps
with lithos
A big reach helps
with lithos
Puma 18 Apr, 2018 Lead dog Good gear can be placed with a long reach. Had to rest after committing to last difficult move. Probably didn't need to.
Good gear can be placed with a long reach. Had to rest after committing to last difficult move. Probably didn't need to.
lithos 18 Apr, 2018 Lead dog well protected (green cam) but hard move over 2nd bulge, ran out of oomph need to grow some longer arms. c4 b,s,g,r
well protected (green cam) but hard move over 2nd bulge, ran out of oomph need to grow some longer arms. c4 b,s,g,r
RichHartley77 9 Jul, 2017 Lead
mr random 27 May, 2017 2nd dnf An easy HVS??? I regularly lead HVS couldn't even second this one. Someone got lost....
An easy HVS??? I regularly lead HVS couldn't even second this one. Someone got lost....
Katsmiff 27 May, 2017 2nd dog How is this a HVS?? With no decent gear for the leader. Couldn't even second this.
with Bernie Sosin, Rafal Malczyk
How is this a HVS?? With no decent gear for the leader. Couldn't even second this.
with Bernie Sosin, Rafal Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 27 May, 2017 Lead
David Chase 1 Sep, 2016 2nd dog
with Ben Hirst
with Ben Hirst
Robrossmills 30 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S First HVS lead, desperate.
First HVS lead, desperate.
Hidden 30 Jan, 2016 2nd
jeddb 9 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
kmaxwell 26 Apr, 2013 2nd
lanky and weak 26 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Tenko 1 Oct, 2011 -
with Jon Rogerson
with Jon Rogerson
Hidden 19 Jun, 2011 2nd
Hidden 14 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
Wizzy ??, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 22 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
hamish2016 9 Feb, 2008 Solo O/S
with sergei
with sergei
Different Steve 17 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S Interesting moves and worth a star or two despite the difficulties being rather short. Tricky to protect though , the tall can reach to place a large cam in the left end of the 2nd break at 4m
Interesting moves and worth a star or two despite the difficulties being rather short. Tricky to protect though , the tall can reach to place a large cam in the left end of the 2nd break at 4m
Hidden 29 Aug, 2005 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Whealiebob ??, 2000 -
with Robin
with Robin
Herbie973 18 Jul, 1993 2nd
Austin manns3 1 Mar, 1992 2nd
Hidden 27 Aug, 1990 Solo O/S
Moses 28 Oct, 1987 Solo
Dave Musgrove 12 May, 1974 Lead O/S New Route
with Jim Worthington
New Route
with Jim Worthington
Tony Marr ?May, 1966 2nd I recently [Feb 2019], came across a dog-eared note book listing my ascents on Cannon Rock in May 1966. My climbing partner was Johnny Adams. I led Maloja to warmed up then Johnny lead Frensis Direct with little difficulty. We didn't have a guide book but presumed the sculptured bulge to the left of Maloja was already climbed...Johnny led it in his usual cool style despite no runners...my note records it as VS! We finished by top roping the crack to the left [Go Joe], which we considered to be the hardest of them all.
with Johnny Adams
I recently [Feb 2019], came across a dog-eared note book listing my ascents on Cannon Rock in May 1966. My climbing partner was Johnny Adams. I led Maloja to warmed up then Johnny lead Frensis Direct with little difficulty. We didn't have a guide book but presumed the sculptured bulge to the left of Maloja was already climbed...Johnny led it in his usual cool style despite no runners...my note records it as VS! We finished by top roping the crack to the left [Go Joe], which we considered to be the hardest of them all.
with Johnny Adams
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 3
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set