UKC

55m, 3 pitches. This entertaining little multi pitch climb snakes its way up the cliff seaching out the best climbing to the apex of the quarry. Great beginner route with good views to the Port, the occasional wedding in the garden below, and out to the Peninsula.

Can be climbed at night with lights from the Port, and the route makes a good simul-climb. The first few metres of P1 can remain damp several days after rain during winter, but the rest of the route generally dries quickly.

Descent - 20m then 30m rap off DBB at top, then mid-station L of the top of P2. Or, scramble up 5m through the trees, hard L through the scrub to pick up a good (exposed) trail leading around the top of the quarry above the Chakrata Wall to the viewing platform.

Start among the bush in the centre of the bowl. Traverse L along the ramp, negotiate a steep step, then R to a slab past a couple of bolts to bolt belay and tree stump.
Climb up a steep arete, then hard L to DBB. Location of DBB on photo topo is about 4m too high.
Step L and up through drill hole. Buckets recently chipped into this section to maintain grade consistency. Then tend L to steep headwall which is then turned on the R. Previously grade 18 A0 using side pull on large quarry-era drill hole.

Marcus Thomas 1996.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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