Restricted Access
The upper cliff had some good trad climbing that is worth looking at if the swell is affecting other areas of the Swanage cliffs. A steady head is needed to deal with the odd loose section of rock but is often better than it looks. One nut crack area has some friendly routes to get you started. The Yellow wall is a big adventure in its self and see few assents, but when the evening light is on it looks amazing.
The boulder field is worth making the long trek with pads to explore, just take it steady down the steep entry slopes.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions apply from Pier Bottom (the valley north of St Aldhem's Head) to the east arete of The Yellow Wall and from Buttery Corner (the point at which the undercliff below St. Aldhelm's Head gives way to seacliff) to Slippery Ledge.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Matt Smith | 30 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Horrid. P1 chimney felt like it had never been climbed before. Ended up going right of it up vague groove which looked like more of the line on topo. Continous ledges with pebbles on made belaying pretty dangerous. P2 would maybe worthy of a star, except for the very hollow sounding large flint "shield" on the crux. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Horrid. P1 chimney felt like it had never been climbed before. Ended up going right of it up vague groove which looked like more of the line on topo. Continous ledges with pebbles on made belaying pretty dangerous. P2 would maybe worthy of a star, except for the very hollow sounding large flint "shield" on the crux. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for St. Aldhelm's Head
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Avernus
Grade: S 4a ***
(Subluminal and Lighthouse Cliff)