James Gordon ??/2018 -
genghis76 02/Sep/17 -
with leonide
liamando 01/Sep/17 AltLd

Odd pitches

BIain 01/Sep/17 AltLd
Tom Seccombe 18/Aug/17 Lead dog

In Boots, in heavy rain. Climbed a super slipery water full meant french free for most of the pitches.

maxf 24/Jul/17 AltLd
rmleatherby 16/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Weeping rock with weather closing in

nextural 16/Jul/17 2nd

Complete with waterfalls and shifting slime

mark-abz 16/Jul/17 Lead
with Michael H - AMC, Greg - AMC
benclimbing 03/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
jonskippy 03/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

A bit of a hail shower slowed progress but a great route.

onlyfoddington 29/May/17 AltLd dnf

The first pitch felt technically hard for 4c (Ian led). I then went wandering to avoid the wetness, only it started raining and we retreated from the end of pitch 2. We even got a trundle.

with Ian
ian d f 29/May/17 AltLd dnf

rained off

avmpsycho 27/May/17 2nd O/S
with Maria Koc, James Buckley
Captain Solo 27/May/17 Solo rpt
j.buckley87 27/May/17 Lead

First pitch felt technically the hardest and 3rd was good holds and good gear all the way, absoluelty devine.

MakiMaria 27/May/17 2nd
Hidden 12/May/17 AltLd
nuts and bolts ??/2017 -
graemew ??/2017 -
Lawrie Brand 19/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
with Robin Jeffery
Ste Ridd 17/Sep/16 AltLd

Proper big mountain route!

Hidden 17/Sep/16 AltLd
shaun hunt 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
oliverk 27/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Lucy
wardt_88 18/Aug/16 2nd
shonabeag 18/Aug/16 -
Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/16 Solo O/S
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
jack morris 94 ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
iainpowell ??/2016 -
beds74 18/Oct/15 AltLd

I did 1st/3rd pitches (4C) First pitches crack was soaking/cold on hands. Groove/crack hard to see from below, and was most definitely top end 5a (that was dry) HVS gear at best in groove/start of crack. (crux) Pitch 2 was soaking/miserable. Crack pitch was excellent but sustained (5a everywhere else) top pitch weird/rambling. Another characterful 'Classic' route!

with Colin Dyer
Colin Dyer 18/Oct/15 AltLd

Wet. Very "classic"

Dougbart 10/Oct/15 AltLd
with matt
CurlyStevo 04/Oct/15 AltLd

Lead pitch 3 as a party of 3. Really quite a nice route, worth 2 stars for the climbing IMO with a brilliant aspect. Pitch 3 is awesome, the only cairngroms granite pitch I've done that's better is scabbard pitch 2. Everything was dry bar a few avoidable minor seeps on pitch 1 and 2 and the turf which also could be avoided in the main.

Ian Jones 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Fairly fucking awful. Slabby and sketchy with grass and wetness. Pitch 1 HVS 5a *. Pitch 2 Bag of...... Pitch 2 hard ** Pitch 3 pleasant * Pitch 4 pleasant.

with Stephen Holmes, Tim Elson
Hidden 03/Oct/15 2nd O/S
dave o 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Nice. Crackin 3rd pitch

DundeeDave 02/Oct/15 AltLd dog

Gorgeous summer day at the start of October. Route was dry.

JoeMortimer 30/Sep/15 AltLd

Lead P1, P3 and P5. Great climb.

Fat Andy Heff 30/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 28/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Jenny Hall 30/Aug/15 2nd
with louis
Louis Hume 30/Aug/15 Lead
with Jenny
Mackinclimb 20/Aug/15 AltLd
arrang 20/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/15 AltLd
mike fenwick 03/Jul/15 AltLd
QuicNic 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Crag still very wet. I led first, third and fifth pitches. First half of first was still under snow. The move onto the whaleback was hard due to wet rock. 2nd pitch was very very wet. 3rd and crux pitch started dry but got wetter until running water at the steepest point! Was hard in these conditions but the gear is excellent. Last two pitches were drier. Last pitch gear becomes thin. Not sure we enjoyed it and would be good to do it in the dry! At least it wasn't raining....much.

plain kitten ??/2015 -
CaelanB 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

led pitches 2 and 4, joe merged pitches 5 & 6

Alastair MacSween 02/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1, 3 and 5. Pitch 2 was very wet. Overall a well deserved 3 stars.

with Phil Warriner
Hidden 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Nemo9 02/Sep/14 AltLd
with Sam
OwenF ?/Sep/14 Lead
with Sophia
Mark D 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Midges. Never very hard, pitch 3 was good, so many holds everywhere, some hidden. Classic rock grade of HS seems more appropriate!

with Dave Duggan
MrRiley 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3 and 4 utterly superb! Pitch 3 was very sustained but well protected. Did this and Auld Nick before the rain hit!

with Ben, Richard Hines
Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Nigel Bond 22/Jul/14 Lead
with Colin Hutton
Graham Westbrook 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Half of the 1st pitch still covered in snow. Bet wet in places but still a fantastic route!

mjackson 17/Jun/14 -
mattkemp70 ?/Jun/14 AltLd
with Westy
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 20/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
John Workman 10/Aug/13 Lead

Third time for me, first being fifteen? years ago. Still as good as ever though.

with Apprentice
Hidden 10/Aug/13 AltLd dnf
ChristineR 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with ieuan, seamus
Shea 04/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Wow. Started off too late and had a wee bit of an epic. Topped out at 1 am after dropping my belay device, going off route, only having one headtorch (which broke, dur), leading every pitch, and considering sleeping on the ledge 10 meters from the top. Stunning starry sky, after getting back to the car at 3am mother nature decided to reward our efforts with some northern lights. Not a climb I'm going to forget soon. For anyone reading the guidbook when it says traverse and follow a wandering route for 25 meters as the second last pitch, this means traverse only to the nose to the right of you and then go straight up. Don't keep traversing unless you can lead E1!

ieuanr 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Topped out at 1am..... a lot of loose rock on pitch 2. Think we traversed too far right on the penultimate pitch. Ended up on the wrong "grassy ledge" which added another pitch to reach the summit. Saw the northern lights when walking off.

planetmarshall 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

A bit wet and windy, but fantastic climb. No one else to be seen.

james1978 03/Aug/13 AltLd

pitch 3 is a belter.

Hidden 29/Jul/13 Lead O/S
BallsOfSteel 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/13 AltLd
guy757 11/Jul/13 -
donas 09/Jul/13 AltLd
Mapleleaf 07/Jul/13 AltLd
with Jim Hall
Hidden 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 AltLd
SUColdo ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Josiemc ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
ferdia 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Luke Partridge, Anna Busche
Hidden ??/2013 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/12 AltLd dnf
Drmikew 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
alan moore ?/Sep/12 AltLd

A southerly gale roared through the Cairngorms and held off the rain for a few hours. A good route, awkward in places and very classic.

annep 19/Aug/12 AltLd


barney_edin 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,2 & 5. Pitch 2 very wet, so followed different line.

with Mehmet
Pete23 11/Aug/12 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
Mike-W-99 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lead 2 & 4 Pitch 1 high in the grade, a good lead by Fiona.

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led odd pitches including the awesome pitch 3. Pitch one is very thin and a bit challenging for the short. A few seeps but nothing affecting the route.

with Mike
PeteLoveless 11/Aug/12 AltLd rpt

Led P3&4. Pitch 3 awesome.

with Ben Gibson
morsy 11/Aug/12 AltLd
with peter berwick
Gibson27 ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1,2 & 5. Great wee route.

SnowdonGypsy ?/Aug/12 -
Laurence Cowton 28/Jul/12 AltLd

1st pitch felt fairly run out, and the 3rd pretty hard for VS. Went off route for the top to pitches onto very rotten rock! Only the second pitch was wet, but that could be avoided.

with Job
Hidden 27/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Patzl ??/2012 -
Patzl ??/2012 -
matt perks ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
TheAndyBarker ??/2012 -
Steven Carter ??/2012 Lead O/S
Patzl ??/2012 -
freudy_love 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

The corner/crack pitch (3rd) is one of the best pitches of climbing you will ever do!

with Stewart Munro
telemarker 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 & P4. Great route in stunning weather, was even getting nibbled by midges there was so little wind. P3 is probably the best pitch I had climbed so far.

mulletcocktail2000 13/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

piss wet. a snorkel and wet suit would have been good!

with pete
nowler 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

led even pitches, jr the odd pitches.

with JR
Anna_wells 02/Jul/11 AltLd
with Tom _ Stork
jsrous 02/Jul/11 -
with Pete L
t_stork 02/Jul/11 AltLd
with Anna Wells
PeteLoveless 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1,2,5, Jon 3&4

with jon
Hidden 28/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jun/11 AltLd
D.Russell ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 04/May/11 AltLd O/S
erinbastian 29/Apr/11 AltLd
WilliamBurnside ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
brianrunner ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
cuthill76 28/Jul/10 Lead

Wet and damp, very tough for the grade given the conditions. 1st pitch, bold had to start up the slab to the right. 3rd pitch the crux and was very wet. 4th pitch was difficult to route find and also seemed harder than 4b. A classic in a great location.

Hidden 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Chris wilson 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

thought this was a tough mountain VS, 1st pitch is bold and the 3rd is very sustained, take plenty of quickdraws for this one, i ran out on pitch 3.

with Allan
Shaw Brown 21/Sep/09 Lead

Great route. Nice and dry for us, thought the first pitch where it goes up the centre of the pillar was a bit pokey for VS, particuarly if you do not have small friends.

with Loz
Lawrie Brand 20/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Pretty sustained 3rd pitch, nice

with Al Goodridge, Jamie Wilson
kevg 19/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Bit drizzly while we were climbing, but good climbing on the 3rd pitch.

with Pete M
auchtubhmor1 11/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Stunning route, Definately ***

jimorothy 10/Sep/09 AltLd

Pess wet thru - throughout.Pitch 3 is like Apollo Creed: just keeps hitting you over and over again, rightly the crux, despite the technical 5a-ish demands of pitch 1. Had Anvil's Metal on Metal in my head for the whole climb: Fiercely fantastic!

with Rachel Crolla
Skinny Kin 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Making up my own 2nd pitch. Good 5a worth of slab climbing. More interesting than the 4b way. Neil wasn't so keen on slab. I love it. The granite has superb friction.

liz-264 05/Jul/09 AltLd
simon_D 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

P4 is harder than 4b, the start over the bulges is quite bold. Good gear tho, nice route - not sure if it is deserved of 3 stars (2 more like). The crux crack and fault of p3 are excellent.

with Dan
HIGHTOWER 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Top route. Fantastic day out.

with Liz
dgray455 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Good climb. 1st and 3rd pitches are 2 star. These pitches seemed hard for the grade, with somewhat awkward moves but very enjoyable. The rest of the pitches are a bit dirty. Route finding is difficult, especially the 4th pitch. On pitch 4 trend right as much as possible, taking the easiest line. Descent is a walk off.

with Simon_d
chapmand 03/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/09 AltLd
tomdude 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

"prone to seepage"! pitch 2 and 3 very wet indeed but all very good. led 1,3,5.

with lawrence
wence 20/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Jamie Simpson ??/2009 -

Bailed 1 pitch from the top, as the route became a waterfall

with Nick Collins
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 31/May/08 AltLd O/S

First pitch was banked out with snow, 2nd pitch was a bit wet but pitches 3 & 4 were lovely!

with Christian L
TrollJester ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with Bob Makison
Hidden ??/2008 -
tallthinmonkey 23/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Paul Raistrick
andymoin 09/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2,4; 2,5 were wet. 3 has to be one of the best pitches I've climbed and 4 was pretty exceptional to, a route well deserving the title classic!

RobScotland 08/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Fairly easy for the grade. A very enjoyable route despite seepage today.

with Charlie Hill
Neil Mackenzie 08/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

did on typical grey wet 'gorms day.... led pitch 1, 3 (one of the best individual pitchs ive led!!) and 5. lots of water on route makin it all the more exciting!

with Andy
richardlong78 ??/2007 Lead
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Captain Solo 15/Oct/06 AltLd
with Jim Moseley
Chris L Hill ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Shaw
steev ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Jo B
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2005 -
with John N
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! ?/Sep/04 AltLd O/S

Wed before Arran

with Rebecca
abbeywall ?/Jun/04 AltLd
with D Cassidy, K
morbh 24/Aug/03 AltLd
with Colin & Sandy
Hidden ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 24/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Luisa Giles
Bob M 15/Jun/03 AltLd

Stunning route, stunning location.

with Stewart Walker
Jamie B ?/Jun/03 AltLd

Very good route indeed.

with Graham Foster
Colin Mcgregor 28/Sep/02 Lead
wildrover220 25/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
with Brian McReadie
jgordon75 12/Jun/01 AltLd

Very wet

with kirk
Chad123 ??/2000 -
Lone Rider ??/2000 -
graeme gatherer ??/2000 -
Richard Weller 11/Jul/99 Lead
with Nick Cruden
Bruce Kerr 30/Aug/98 Lead
with Jenny Kerr
Iain Thow 26/Sep/97 AltLd

Led 1,3&5

with Liz Jolley
Hidden ??/1997 -
colin milton 23/Aug/96 AltLd RP

lead pitch 1 & 3

with eric milton
Hidden ?/May/96 AltLd
GordyB ??/1996 -
IanMcC 16/Aug/95 AltLd
with Jimbo
Hidden 16/Aug/95 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/95 AltLd
Yourlead 23/Jun/95 AltLd
with Graham Penny
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd
pingora 28/Sep/93 AltLd rpt
with Blaggers
CMacD ??/1993 -
pingora 18/Jun/92 Solo O/S
AC1 ??/1992 -
with Adam Liversedge
kp64zl ?/Aug/91 AltLd
stuart100 ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
with Pete Goodwin
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
mark-abz 12/Aug/84 Lead
with Liam M
TonyF 16/Jul/84 AltLd O/S

With socks

with Martin Lancaster
Hidden ??/1983 AltLd
andybirtwistle ?/Jul/82 -
Martin Bennett 29/Aug/81 -

A warmdown after Steeple!

with JD
johnkeith ??/1979 Lead
with can't remember!
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 55
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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