UKC

150m, 3 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

TW Patey, D Holroyd 19/Jan/1958

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers, Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII, Chasing the Ephemeral.


ClimberDateStyle
olekemi 21/Mar AltLd rpt

Plan B and not what we came for, but as it was with a warm front with rain arriving well before forecasted, this provided a very good alternative.

with Jeremy M
mountain musher 20/Mar AltLd

In great nick, brilliant weather. Top pitch needed a little clearing to find gear/ placements.

HaleAlex 09/Mar AltLd O/S

Brilliant day. Skied there and back, blue sky. Did it in two pitches as i think the first pitch was pretty banked out. Jack lead the Chockstone pitch. Second half of the chimney floor was full of powder but first pitch had good snow and some ice

with jackob
jackob 09/Mar AltLd

Second deep cut chimney this week this one much more enjoyable thsn scnb. Done as two long pitches skid in and skid out on bluebird day what more can you ask for!

annep 26/Feb AltLd

4 pitches.

Hidden 25/Feb AltLd
steveP 24/Feb AltLd
joe king 24/Feb AltLd rpt
with steveP
Little AndyH 23/Feb AltLd

N

with MrRiley
MrRiley 23/Feb AltLd O/S

Absolutely superb, continuous strip of ice and neve, good rock gear and odd screw, finish is spectacular

Robbie Blease 22/Feb AltLd O/S

Amazing route in amazing condition!

with Hamish D
Lumbering Oaf 21/Feb AltLd O/S

Great fun. Each of us climbed the final section a different way! Easier perhaps for the longer in leg?!

Hoyes 21/Feb AltLd O/S
David Kay 21/Feb AltLd O/S
with Matt Robinson, Hoyes
noskki 11/Feb AltLd
with AmyG
AmyG 11/Feb AltLd O/S

Lots of snow! Awkward out the chimney at the top

with noskki
sgl 04/Feb AltLd

Plan B

with tebs
tebs 04/Feb AltLd O/S

Big build up meant we could solo the slabs directly up to the Chimney itself. Very warm and melty on 1st belay but once in the Chimney cold and good connies. Excellent final pitch

with sgl
JRJones 03/Feb 2nd
Hidden 03/Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jan Lead O/S
davkeo 30/Jan AltLd O/S

What a fun & atmospheric route. Soloed up to the cave belay & then rock paper scissored for the last pitch. Tim won. Would happily climb this again.

SarahA 13/Jan AltLd

With Mike, Joe and Si following behind. I led 2 and 4. In generally good condition although some bits of ice and nevee could have been firmer. Lovely choice for a windy day! Interesting and fun the whole way up: I was pretty slow on the last pitch as I got a bit confused about the best way to approach it! Weirdly airy feel given you're in a chimney-think it's cause the gully floor drops away as you approach the chockstone. Back and footing felt increasingly tenuous as the chimney widens! According to the guys I missed the bomber hook for the committing move over the chockstone. Amazing route!

Hidden 13/Jan AltLd O/S
RUDIN.J.D.H 13/Jan AltLd

Simon led P1 into Gully. I led Pitch 2 up into the deep cut chimney over the multiple chockstones of fun. Simon led pitch 3 through the roof

with sink14
luckyjim 07/Jan AltLd

Abbed off before final chockstone pitch...a long day of swimming through powder snow : (

with D Helm
lanky ?/Jan AltLd

Fantastic route, led the traverse

with Rich
mrbird 29/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
Jamie Skelton 29/Dec/17 AltLd O/S
with David Bird
Ulgrid 10/Dec/17 AltLd

A seriously dodgy traverse to the start across powdery slab. Turf now frozen but buried under a tonne of powder most of the way up the route. Some rime ice and harder snow to ease the way. Despite these challenges, an utterly fantastic day and we had the route all to ourselves.

Hidden 10/Dec/17 AltLd
Roberttaylor 26/Nov/17 AltLd dnf

Approach ramp was a powder slog, I made it a few meters from the belay to find that the turf was nowhere near frozen. Abbed off a slung chokestone and a hex to the left; if anyone is up could they remove this as I don't want it staying to become fixed mank. A 60m ab just made it to easy ground.

Oliver Smaje 26/Nov/17 AltLd dnf

Turf not frozen. Buried under powder.

with Rob Taylor
LucaC 28/Feb/17 AltLd

P2,4. Lean conditions. Good frozen turf but the ice steps were not complete. We finished direct through the capping roof at about IV 6.

with tim20
chris687 14/Feb/17 -

James practicing guiding

Hidden 14/Feb/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 13/Feb/17 -
K Mckay 12/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Mega route with a mind-f*** of a finish. In good nick.

with Paul Gibbison
Hidden 12/Feb/17 -
Will_he_fall 07/Feb/17 AltLd
Hidden 07/Feb/17 AltLd
oliverk 05/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Rather soggy and lots of powder on lower pitches. The upper ones improved. A very memorable and unlikely climb, recommended

with Zoe
Hidden 01/Feb/17 2nd
Hidden 05/Jan/17 AltLd
guitarshane 04/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

Snow is insulating the turf underneath so a bit soft in places. Some useful ice though, very enjoyable climbing, great moves on top pitch!

Chrismith 04/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

Superb route with loads of interesting climbing from the first move to the last in a stunning location with the shelterstone as a backdrop. Conditions were OK. Some useful ice with some not so useful powder. A lot of verglas around too. Split into 4 pitches so we both got to lead some beefy bits...the top pitch was a right laugh.

graemew ??/2017 -
graemew ??/2017 -
graemew ??/2017 -
rob16 18/Feb/16 AltLd

Snow pretty unconsolidated in places and the top pitch was pretty stiff for IV but a great route.

with Matt Brook
geoff b 18/Feb/16 AltLd

What a brilliant climb in a stunning location. The 1st time I've ever climbed in the sun in winter? On the other hand this melted the snow on the right-hand-side of the chimney which wasn't so good! P1 was fine but P2 had hideously soft snow to progress up: a real battle. Thank heavens for those pegs which made protection quicker & easier. P3 is deceptive but brilliant; Andy took the credit there.

with Andy St., Dr. Nick
Hidden 11/Feb/16 -
Hidden ?/Feb/16 AltLd
CaelanB 20/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Got the final lead, what a mental pitch! fantastic climbing. turned into a longer day than expected because of the ;arg amounts of powder before the chimney.

buzby78 11/Jan/16 Lead

Swam to the base of the route, swam up the first 3 pitches, last 2 pitches done in the dark then 3 hour walk back in a storm, good value day out!

with Robbie
pcurt 09/Jan/16 2nd O/S

First winter route!! Superb atmospheric route. Blue bird day!

with Ryan, Pina
Pina 09/Jan/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb, especially last pitch.

with Pete, Ryan
RM199 21/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Piers Harley 19/Feb/15 -

A lot is packed in to the final meters!

with Jeremy Windsor
ManxClimber 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Quite thin Ice on pitches but Great Climb

masa-alpin 08/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Andrew lead P1 and P3, I lead P2 (all roughly 30 metres). Scratchy, as the there was little to no ice, except for the bottom part, which was in a good nick. Nice alpine weather.

planetmarshall 08/Feb/15 AltLd

Fantastic alpine conditions, shared the route with only one other party. Could do with a hard freeze but otherwise excellent.

abbeywall 07/Feb/15 AltLd
with septic, FM
septic 07/Feb/15 AltLd
jpc1 04/Jan/15 AltLd

Lots and lots of snow and no frozen turf. Abandoned after first pitch with Tom

Hidden 03/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 03/Jan/15 AltLd

Unconsolidated and precarious. Big moon spectacular on the walk out. Felt hard.

with Adam
Nick Wallis ??/2015 -
with BMC international meet
gripped01 29/Dec/14 Lead

Still some unconsolidated powder in the gulley. Still not sure if I was facing the right way on the last pitch.

with Dan Graves
Adamski1986 28/Dec/14 AltLd dnf

Climbed 1st & 2nd Pitch A team were on the crux pitch and I was concerned about having to climb it in the dark, We decided to abb off and walk out. Had fun naving across the in a pitch black blizzard.

with Zoe Strong
malone 26/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
peter.herd 26/Dec/14 AltLd
with Liam Malone
olekemi 22/Mar/14 AltLd dnf

Unfrozen and unconsolidated. Rapelled off.

with Mark G
Hidden 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 27/Feb/14 2nd
with Paul J
LJKing 19/Feb/14 AltLd dnf

Abbed off from beneath top due lack of gear with placements and side walls buried in lots of slush.

with Jeremy Windsor
kelliroberts3 21/Jan/14 AltLd
Pete Rigby 21/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
with Kelli Roberts
Hidden 20/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Steven Andrews 20/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Ace! Sustained at the bottom and a cool last pitch. Back and foot and amazing layaway hooks - maybe a bit easier with longer leggs or a fuller pack.

with Ryan, Ali
Craig Holden 18/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

Good fun, last pitch looked a bit improbable till I set off then got into the swing (or more accurately shuffle)of things. Rather hairy heading back over the plateau.

with Alex Toomey
alex toomey 18/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
stuart34 16/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

bit short for all the hype

crowberry gully 14/Jan/14 -
Hidden 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jan/14 Solo dnf
kenneM 05/Jan/14 AltLd

Fantastic route (got it second time round!!) - hard going back over the plateau in the wind. Think this is probably the hardest IV in the universe - but also maybe one of the best - due to the last pitch.

with Carl Davies
tom_holdsworth 05/Jan/14 2nd

Cheeky final pitch. Glad Ken was there!

with Mike Kennedy
Al_Mac 04/Jan/14 2nd

Great route that gave ample opportunity for some choice swearing during the crux of the final pitch. The first pitch was climbed together as it was banked out with snow and then we belayed from the start of the chimney. Two further pitches topped us out. Only my second mixed route so it was certainly an experience through the chimney given I have no trad experience to fall back on!

bandersnatch 04/Jan/14 Lead
with Al_Mac
saintlade ??/2014 -
Andrew Wilson 29/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Took an even earlier exit up the side of the chimney on the top pitch. This was only above the 1st step after the belay. Great lead from mat. Further progress up the chimney barred by bottomless powder on rock.

with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 29/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

not in good condition - hard to protect, turf not frozen, ice falling off, lot of snow hiding the cracks. Had to force an early and technically difficult exit early out of chimney / arete.. probably about V 6. Excellent route though.

with Andy Wilson
Hidden 06/Apr/13 AltLd
Helen Gibson 30/Mar/13 AltLd dnf

scary approach slopes and lots of powder higher in chimney. climbed to within 7m of top.. then backed off.

with Chris Vernon
Hidden ?/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden 24/Feb/13 2nd
Roonix 24/Feb/13 2nd

Great route

Captain Solo 23/Feb/13 AltLd rpt

Hell's Lum choice of routes a bit limited today so went for a repeat of DCC as it looked good from below. Wonderful snow ice and a joy to climb, infinitely better than my first ascent.

Hidden 20/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Ken Applegate 20/Feb/13 Lead

Great route. Ice/snow on lower pitches was fine.

with Victor, John
michael83 17/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Glad I didn't lead the last pitch!

with Mark020
Hidden 17/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
PAJames 20/Jan/13 -

Very cold blustery day. http://pjmountains.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/20-01-13-hells-lum-cairngorms-winter.html

niallk 19/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Led the entertaining exit pitch and a couple of earlier ones. Starting the back-and-foot is a daunting prospect, but fine once established (and once my partner's guidance based on 19-year old memories was ignored).

tom.e 19/Jan/13 AltLd
with DannyC
Hidden 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
The Grist 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Conditions made this tough for the grade. Fresh snow and not much ice lower down. Chimney was very entertaining.

with Nick Allsop, Sam Simpson
Hidden ??/2013 -
centurion05 25/Dec/12 Lead
with Ben thynne
Scott Kirkhope 16/Dec/12 AltLd
Hannah Evans 16/Dec/12 AltLd
kenneM 15/Dec/12 Lead dnf
with Theeni
Theeni 15/Dec/12 2nd dnf

Covered in haw frost when we got to the point where we had to exit the chimney we couldn't see the line and so bailed. On return one look at a UKC picture and we realised our error. The sort of route that should have the phrase 'cheeky exit' or 'improbable finish' in my eyes, though probably more obvious in less powdery conditions. The retreat made for a long day, need to come back for it now!

with kenneM
Hidden ?/Dec/12 AltLd
a_hein ?/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

powder covered rock...lots of scraping but good fun!

with Susan Jenson
Andrew Sloan 10/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Had planned to do Sticil face but a major thaw put paid to that. This, however, was a fantastic consolation route which was still nicely frozen.

Martin Haworth 10/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Corker of a route, fantastic finish.

whispering nic 03/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Glorious day, nice continuous climbing with an entertaining exit!

with Pam
Hidden 26/Jan/12 AltLd
67hours 20/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Currently my favourite winter route, if not favourite ever route.

Bristoldave 20/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1&3

with George
OwenF 14/Jan/12 AltLd dnf

turf was just about frozen although thawing quick. Ab'd off before the end as the highest pitches were completely bare rock

with Stephi
Stephi 14/Jan/12 AltLd dnf
with OwenF
Harry Holmes 07/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Lots of unfrozen turf and bad ice at the bottom changing into reasonably compacted snow in the middle and then horrible powder at the top. It was out of the wind though

with Dougal, Dr Tom
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
marxk ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 15/Dec/11 Lead
1202alarm 06/Dec/11 Lead

A real fight due to poor conditions on the initial slopes and bottomless powder in the chimmney. Did it in five pitches and led the crux in the dark...

Hidden ?/Dec/11 2nd
Hidden 05/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd
Spence22 26/Feb/11 AltLd β
with Guy
Hidden 22/Feb/11 AltLd
9fingerjon 22/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Ended up leading the top pitch - not as bad as it looks

Graeme Barr 12/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Led crux.

Hidden 12/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Ulgrid 05/Feb/11 2nd
GraMc 05/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with thom simmons
Hidden 05/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Drew M ?/Feb/11 AltLd
with Kane Chandler
Hidden 29/Jan/11 AltLd
t_stork 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic.

with Rory Brown, Marcus Brown
sebrider 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

The two last pitches were great. Loved the finish :)

with Mike Bland
peebles boy ?/Jan/11 2nd
Hidden ??/2011 -
David Sherratt ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Ian Jones 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

A bit melty and I got very damp. A difficult but short crux. A fierce white-out on top made for an interesting homeward slog.

with Trevor Carpenter
Hidden 10/Mar/10 Lead
crowberry gully 14/Feb/10 2nd

The lower chimney was nicely iced

Hidden 14/Feb/10 -
Hidden 26/Jan/10 2nd
Webster 17/Dec/09 AltLd O/S

soloed 1st pitch, lead a short pitch from the upper gully into the heart of the chimney, partner lead the rest. excelent mixed climbing in near perfect conditions!

d_meacher 17/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with David Webster
John Roe 04/Mar/09 Lead

Very warm start to the day, powdery conditions at the start, unfortunately there was already a pair on the climb, so we didn't have the crag to ourselves. The leader of the pair infront of us was unfortunate to dislodge the flake he had used for protection and had torqued his axe on for the final set of moves out onto the chalk stones at the crux!!! Not sure how this affect the climb for those wanting to make the final set of moves in the sam way. An excellent day.

with Stu Joyce, Marcus Littler
Hidden 03/Feb/09 AltLd
mulletcocktail2000 01/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

quality!

with john
steveP 26/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

Amazing crux at the top. I'm not sure if I could explain to anyone quite how it's done...

joe king 26/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

fantastic conditions... top pitch a little gem

with steve pettit
Hidden 24/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
decs 24/Jan/09 AltLd
with steev
SWalls 23/Jan/09 -
with Andy Ruck, Steve Addy
Hidden 06/Jan/09 AltLd
Chris Dickinson 06/Jan/09 AltLd
hwackerhage 14/Dec/08 -

Must do climb. The return from inner Earth is good value for the grade.

with Brian
andymoin 08/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Very nice climbing, Soloed up to the chimney then did the route in two pitches, awesome top pitch with some funky chimney action. Haul or leave sack somewhere if you can.

with James Dunn
gregor 25/Nov/08 -
Captain Solo 02/Mar/08 AltLd
with ontour
HIGHTOWER 13/Mar/07 2nd
with Clive
Neil Adams 08/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 08/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with neil adams
jimdanson 27/Jan/07 AltLd
with dan middleton
mike.moss ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/06 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd
oor wullie ?/Feb/06 -
with Risto kalampa
barney_edin 19/Dec/05 2nd
with Phil A
Dave Kerr 03/Jan/04 AltLd
with Richard Jewell, Matt Dent
Gman ?/Jan/04 AltLd O/S
with Steve
SiRob ?/Feb/03 AltLd
with MB
Hidden ?/Jan/03 AltLd O/S
zero six ??/2003 AltLd O/S
niall_mac ?/Dec/02 AltLd
Hidden 26/Feb/02 Lead O/S
Colin Mcgregor 18/Mar/01 AltLd
Hidden 18/Mar/01 AltLd
ChrisMarden ??/2001 -

Memorable - exciting top pitch

with Simon
uphillnow ?/Jan/00 AltLd

also feb 2001 with Guy Fox Kelly

with Terry Nicholls
Jon Gordon ?/Jul/99 AltLd
Paul Figg 09/Mar/99 AltLd
with Andy Saxby
ArnaudG ?/Jan/99 -
with Jon
Tarquin ??/1999 -
1202alarm ??/1999 -
bandersnatch ??/1999 Lead
with Mairi B
Hidden 20/Dec/98 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/98 -
dangates ??/1998 -
with Kirk Watson
nickdonohue 20/Mar/96 AltLd

Brilliant!

with Caley Latham
charlesmfrench 18/Feb/95 AltLd O/S

2,L,2,L.

with Pete Leeming, Shell, Andy Wingfield
Grezza ?/Feb/95 Lead

Sticil Face, Direct finish to car park!

with Andy Kemp
frost ?/Feb/95 Solo

used a back rope round the roof.

James Gordon ?/Jan/95 -
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
pauldrew ??/1995 AltLd
TheAndyBarker ?/Jan/93 AltLd
Yourlead 17/Nov/91 AltLd

Only lead P1 had an epic in unconsolidated deep snow, non frozen turf and finnishing in dark without head torch's & rucksacs

with Graham Penny
pingora 21/Feb/91 -
Neil McA 28/Dec/89 AltLd O/S
with Martin Mandel
Hidden ??/1988 -
steveb2006 14/Dec/87 AltLd

Part of a great weekend bivvying at the shelterstone.

with Roy Ruddle
John Marsland 25/Feb/87 Lead
with Dave Cousins
Hidden 09/Jan/87 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
Mark Kemball 31/Jan/84 Lead
with Mike Dennison
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 42
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set