30m.

Rockfax Description
Perhaps the most atmospheric ice-route in Wales. Scramble all the way up the deep cleft until you reach the waterfall.
30m. Climb the icefall on the right of the waterfall. Belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Note this climb is for Winter Conditions

Ticklists

Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 16 Mar Solo
Ids1165 9 Oct, 2018 Lead
JackM92 4 Mar, 2018 Lead dnf Bit shocked at the grade on here, looked solid WI5 to me. Took a groundfall on rope stretch after what looked like bomber hooks ripped out. The price for leading a partially formed ice route jn such warm conditions I considered going without gloves.
Bit shocked at the grade on here, looked solid WI5 to me. Took a groundfall on rope stretch after what looked like bomber hooks ripped out. The price for leading a partially formed ice route jn such warm conditions I considered going without gloves.
Hidden 3 Mar, 2018 AltLd dnf
Hidden ??, 2018 AltLd O/S
Charliehbolton 10 Jan, 2016 Sent
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
saintlade ??, 2014 -
mileshill540 ??, 2014 Lead
yesbutnobutyesbut ??, 2014 -
Stone Muppet 7 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Having done this in summer it was nice to come again in winter. the route didn't disappoint in terms of epic ness as I had to haul an exhausted Ceri up. Well formed though thinning, and very well hooked, no problem even with alpine axes
with ceri
Having done this in summer it was nice to come again in winter. the route didn't disappoint in terms of epic ness as I had to haul an exhausted Ceri up. Well formed though thinning, and very well hooked, no problem even with alpine axes
with ceri
andy dunn 6 Apr, 2013 2nd Probably only swung my axes twice in getting up this. A proper hook-fest! Awesome situation tucked right back in the the gully though! Fair bit of loose snow ice falling into the gully from the sides as well.
with J
Probably only swung my axes twice in getting up this. A proper hook-fest! Awesome situation tucked right back in the the gully though! Fair bit of loose snow ice falling into the gully from the sides as well.
with J
Ched 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S My first pure ice pitch on leashless axes. Well peppered with screw holes though, so didn't need to screw in fresh.
with gali
My first pure ice pitch on leashless axes. Well peppered with screw holes though, so didn't need to screw in fresh.
with gali
timofy 6 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2013 2nd
joe.91 5 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Amazing route! Been on my list for a very long time now, glad to get it done. Bit short though, felt the pump a bit. Topped out at 9:30am!
with Reidy
Amazing route! Been on my list for a very long time now, glad to get it done. Bit short though, felt the pump a bit. Topped out at 9:30am!
with Reidy
Pete_Frost 5 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Soft touch as it had been climbed so often this season. Only had to swing my axe once!
with Olly Saunders
Soft touch as it had been climbed so often this season. Only had to swing my axe once!
with Olly Saunders
Hidden 5 Apr, 2013 2nd
Ralfy 4 Apr, 2013 Solo O/S
Hidden 2 Apr, 2013 2nd
Hidden 2 Apr, 2013 2nd
tim newton 1 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Andy_B39 1 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with James Davidson
with James Davidson
robbraby ?Apr, 2013 2nd
with Steveo
with Steveo
Hidden ?Apr, 2013 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2013 2nd
CurlyStevo ?Apr, 2013 Lead Very good conditions. Fairly fat, plastic ice well protected with screws. Very atmospheric and rewarding steep ice climbing.
with Rob
Very good conditions. Fairly fat, plastic ice well protected with screws. Very atmospheric and rewarding steep ice climbing.
with Rob
Hidden 31 Mar, 2013 AltLd RP
steve.warrington 31 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
with Dave Simpson, nikgoile
with Dave Simpson, nikgoile
adie84 31 Mar, 2013 -
with Ben Wolstenholme
with Ben Wolstenholme
Hidden 31 Mar, 2013 2nd dog
Hidden 31 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
Ben Wolstenholme 31 Mar, 2013 AltLd
with adie84
with adie84
Hidden 31 Mar, 2013 2nd
climber34neil 30 Mar, 2013 - With Glenn ( double knee bar) and Alex
With Glenn ( double knee bar) and Alex
Hidden 30 Mar, 2013 Lead
stratandrew 30 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Simul climbed the 100m intro up the gully over ice steps of II/III. G led icefall pitch. 10m of very steep vertical ice then the angle eased. Worth every star and then some.
with gw3285
Simul climbed the 100m intro up the gully over ice steps of II/III. G led icefall pitch. 10m of very steep vertical ice then the angle eased. Worth every star and then some.
with gw3285
Hidden 30 Mar, 2013 2nd
freemanTom 30 Mar, 2013 2nd Praise be to Jurgen for the top rope. Superbly featured ice pitch.
with Jurgen
Praise be to Jurgen for the top rope. Superbly featured ice pitch.
with Jurgen
Double Knee Bar 30 Mar, 2013 Lead Rested on ice screw after steep start. Great ice, well hooked out
Rested on ice screw after steep start. Great ice, well hooked out
Hidden 30 Mar, 2013 2nd
willlday 30 Mar, 2013 2nd
with SPD224
with SPD224
Hidden 30 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
gw3285 30 Mar, 2013 Lead
ad111 29 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 Mar, 2013 Lead
ianstevens 29 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S Great nick, if a bit of hookfest.
with Ben Rigby, ad111
Great nick, if a bit of hookfest.
with Ben Rigby, ad111
wolf.leeb 29 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S Jealous not to get the lead on this 1.. Well fat..
with jo
Jealous not to get the lead on this 1.. Well fat..
with jo
davebrox 27 Mar, 2013 2nd
davebrox 27 Mar, 2013 2nd
StuartCJones ?Mar, 2013 2nd β
mr mills 24 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S Not in great condition, felt like a solid v, had to take an alternative start up a shallow groove 3m to the right then joining the route proper at around 10m, wading in deep snow up to chest high after topping out, hotaches from hell...
with sion
Not in great condition, felt like a solid v, had to take an alternative start up a shallow groove 3m to the right then joining the route proper at around 10m, wading in deep snow up to chest high after topping out, hotaches from hell...
with sion
DannyK 2 Feb, 2012 Lead dnf Did not climb final ice fall crux, ice was too thin.
Did not climb final ice fall crux, ice was too thin.
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Pay Attention ?Feb, 2011 -
centurion05 ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mynyddresident 25 Dec, 2010 Lead Less the hookfest than the previous time. Gear not bomber.
with chris
Less the hookfest than the previous time. Gear not bomber.
with chris
Hidden 25 Dec, 2010 2nd dog
Ashley Hold 25 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S
with Matthew Wheadon
with Matthew Wheadon
Hidden 25 Dec, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 8 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S
mynyddresident 6 Dec, 2010 2nd Hooky,featured.
with Greg C
Hooky,featured.
with Greg C
philhilo 5 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S Impressive - lots of people walking away as 'too thin'. However was an absolute hook'fest. Borrowed Mishas Cobras but never had to swing them! IV in this state. Fab location, just don't fall in the pool - brrr...
with tom Jumar, Misha
Impressive - lots of people walking away as 'too thin'. However was an absolute hook'fest. Borrowed Mishas Cobras but never had to swing them! IV in this state. Fab location, just don't fall in the pool - brrr...
with tom Jumar, Misha
Misha 5 Dec, 2010 2nd O/S Good lead by Tom. Was in similar condition to when I did it in January: solid IV 4 hookfest. Amazing to catch this in decent nick so early in the season. Climbed in G12s on my old B1s as the B3s were still being resoled.
with Tom, philhilo
Good lead by Tom. Was in similar condition to when I did it in January: solid IV 4 hookfest. Amazing to catch this in decent nick so early in the season. Climbed in G12s on my old B1s as the B3s were still being resoled.
with Tom, philhilo
Hidden 4 Dec, 2010 Solo dnf
Ian Andrews 4 Dec, 2010 Lead dnf Tricky getting across pool of water to start of steep ice. Backed-off due to (fragile looking) fluted ice with water running behind, would have been delicate, bold climbing & difficult to get decent screws. Looked alot harder than IV. Will go back when hopefully ice fatter & not thawing. (Had been led at least twice earlier that day!)
with Wayne Gordon, Pete Williams
Tricky getting across pool of water to start of steep ice. Backed-off due to (fragile looking) fluted ice with water running behind, would have been delicate, bold climbing & difficult to get decent screws. Looked alot harder than IV. Will go back when hopefully ice fatter & not thawing. (Had been led at least twice earlier that day!)
with Wayne Gordon, Pete Williams
Hidden 4 Dec, 2010 Lead dnf
Hidden ?Dec, 2010 Lead
Tony Lancashire 7 Feb, 2010 Lead
geoff b 14 Jan, 2010 2nd A torchlight ascent after work: we met loads of mates leaving as we walked in! By now it was a ladder but still atmospheric & worth the effort. It fell down the next day.
with Jon Byrne
A torchlight ascent after work: we met loads of mates leaving as we walked in! By now it was a ladder but still atmospheric & worth the effort. It fell down the next day.
with Jon Byrne
Hidden 14 Jan, 2010 2nd
frost 13 Jan, 2010 Solo O/S
LardClimber 10 Jan, 2010 2nd Managed to get up early enough to be first on route that day :-)
with Dave Williams
Managed to get up early enough to be first on route that day :-)
with Dave Williams
eduardo 9 Jan, 2010 2nd O/S Misha lead
with Misha, Mike D
Misha lead
with Misha, Mike D
S Lynch 9 Jan, 2010 -
Hidden 9 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
Pay Attention 9 Jan, 2010 2nd
with Misha
with Misha
Misha 9 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S Good climbing in a fantastic setting. Getting a bit chopped up but not a hookfest. Anyway, I didn't trust most of the hooks as somehow they didn't feel very secure, so largely did my own axe placements. On the other hand, the footholds were pretty good. The crux was a sustained steep section towards the bottom, after a short traverse left. Good climbing in a fantastic setting.
Good climbing in a fantastic setting. Getting a bit chopped up but not a hookfest. Anyway, I didn't trust most of the hooks as somehow they didn't feel very secure, so largely did my own axe placements. On the other hand, the footholds were pretty good. The crux was a sustained steep section towards the bottom, after a short traverse left. Good climbing in a fantastic setting.
Hidden 9 Jan, 2010 -
MD 9 Jan, 2010 2nd
with Misha
with Misha
ruaidh 9 Jan, 2010 2nd Short n sharp. Some hookin, very cold hands.
with steveej
Short n sharp. Some hookin, very cold hands.
with steveej
Hidden 9 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 8 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
Rampikino 8 Jan, 2010 2nd Steeper than it looks and not exactly fat. But some good hooking higher up. Great lead by Paul after I backed off.
Steeper than it looks and not exactly fat. But some good hooking higher up. Great lead by Paul after I backed off.
AB1965 7 Jan, 2010 -
with Baggy Richards
with Baggy Richards
stevebarratt 5 Jan, 2010 2nd O/S
with Rob Bryniarski
with Rob Bryniarski
Hidden 22 Dec, 2009 AltLd dnf
Daniel Wicks 12 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
Luke Brooks 12 Feb, 2009 Lead
with lukef
with lukef
Hidden 12 Feb, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 12 Feb, 2009 2nd
robertporter 8 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Feb, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Feb, 2009 2nd O/S
feilx 7 Feb, 2009 Lead dnf
with Floris & Mike
with Floris & Mike
Hidden 19 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 May, 2008 Lead
keith robo 2 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
with James Gerrie
with James Gerrie
Martyn ?Mar, 2006 2nd O/S
with Damien Jones
with Damien Jones
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 Lead O/S
pgac 20 Jul, 1997 Solo O/S
with jenks
with jenks
Hidden 28 Jan, 1996 -
Nick Biven 11 Feb, 1986 2nd Very, very lean and brittle conditions with no real protection, superb lead by Karl.
with Karl Strange
Very, very lean and brittle conditions with no real protection, superb lead by Karl.
with Karl Strange
Hidden ??, 1986 Lead
nniff ?Feb, 1982 -
Tim Sparrow ?Feb, 1982 -
with nniff
with nniff
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Rob Davies 1 Feb, 1979 Lead Final icefall wasn't well-frozen, so we did the rock route in crampons etc.
with Janet Cochrane (CUMC)
Final icefall wasn't well-frozen, so we did the rock route in crampons etc.
with Janet Cochrane (CUMC)
DonnyDave 20 Jan, 1978 AltLd
with Chris Parkin, Steve Holgarth
with Chris Parkin, Steve Holgarth
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 23
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Followed
Lead
Alt Leads
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set