Rockfax Description
Perhaps the most atmospheric ice-route in Wales. Scramble all the way up the deep cleft until you reach the waterfall.
30m. Climb the icefall on the right of the waterfall. Belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Note this climb is for Winter Conditions

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Charliehbolton 10/Jan/16 Sent
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
saintlade ??/2014 -
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2014 -
Stone Muppet 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Having done this in summer it was nice to come again in winter. the route didn't disappoint in terms of epic ness as I had to haul an exhausted Ceri up. Well formed though thinning, and very well hooked, no problem even with alpine axes

with ceri
andy dunn 06/Apr/13 2nd

Probably only swung my axes twice in getting up this. A proper hook-fest! Awesome situation tucked right back in the the gully though! Fair bit of loose snow ice falling into the gully from the sides as well.

with J
Ched 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

My first pure ice pitch on leashless axes. Well peppered with screw holes though, so didn't need to screw in fresh.

with Simon
timofy 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd
joe.91 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Amazing route! Been on my list for a very long time now, glad to get it done. Bit short though, felt the pump a bit. Topped out at 9:30am!

Pete_Frost 05/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Soft touch as it had been climbed so often this season. Only had to swing my axe once!

with Olly Saunders
Hidden 05/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 02/Apr/13 2nd
tim newton 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Andy_B39 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with James Davidson
robbraby ?/Apr/13 2nd
with Steveo
Hidden ?/Apr/13 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/13 2nd
CurlyStevo ?/Apr/13 Lead

Very good conditions. Fairly fat, plastic ice well protected with screws. Very atmospheric and rewarding steep ice climbing.

with Rob
Hidden 31/Mar/13 AltLd RP
steve.warrington 31/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Dave Simpson, Nik Goile
adie84 31/Mar/13 -
with Ben Wolstenholme
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd dog
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Ben Wolstenholme 31/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden 31/Mar/13 2nd
climber34neil 30/Mar/13 -

With Glenn ( double knee bar) and Alex

Hidden 30/Mar/13 Lead
stratandrew 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Simul climbed the 100m intro up the gully over ice steps of II/III. G led icefall pitch. 10m of very steep vertical ice then the angle eased. Worth every star and then some.

Hidden 30/Mar/13 2nd
freemanTom 30/Mar/13 2nd

Praise be to Jurgen for the top rope. Superbly featured ice pitch.

with Jurgen
Double Knee Bar 30/Mar/13 Lead

Rested on ice screw after steep start. Great ice, well hooked out

Hidden 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/13 2nd O/S
gw3285 30/Mar/13 Lead
ad111 29/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/13 Lead
ianstevens 29/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Great nick, if a bit of hookfest.

with Ben Rigby, Adam Bloch
wolf.leeb 29/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Jealous not to get the lead on this 1.. Well fat..

with jo
davebrox 27/Mar/13 2nd
davebrox 27/Mar/13 2nd
StuartCJones ?/Mar/13 2nd β
mr mills 24/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Not in great condition, felt like a solid v, had to take an alternative start up a shallow groove 3m to the right then joining the route proper at around 10m, wading in deep snow up to chest high after topping out, hotaches from hell...

with sion
DannyK 02/Feb/12 Lead dnf

Did not climb final ice fall crux, ice was too thin.

Hidden ??/2012 -
Pay Attention ?/Feb/11 -
Luke Brooks ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mynyddresident 25/Dec/10 Lead

Less the hookfest than the previous time. Gear not bomber.

with chris
Hidden 25/Dec/10 2nd dog
Ashley Hold 25/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with Matthew Wheadon
Hidden 25/Dec/10 AltLd
Hidden 08/Dec/10 2nd O/S
mynyddresident 06/Dec/10 2nd


with Greg C
philhilo 05/Dec/10 2nd O/S

Impressive - lots of people walking away as 'too thin'. However was an absolute hook'fest. Borrowed Mishas Cobras but never had to swing them! IV in this state. Fab location, just don't fall in the pool - brrr...

with tom Jumar, misha
Misha 05/Dec/10 2nd O/S

Good lead by Tom. Was in similar condition to when I did it in January: solid IV 4 hookfest. Amazing to catch this in decent nick so early in the season. Climbed in G12s on my old B1s as the B3s were still being resoled.

with Tom, Phil
Hidden 04/Dec/10 Solo dnf
Ian Andrews 04/Dec/10 Lead dnf

Tricky getting across pool of water to start of steep ice. Backed-off due to (fragile looking) fluted ice with water running behind, would have been delicate, bold climbing & difficult to get decent screws. Looked alot harder than IV. Will go back when hopefully ice fatter & not thawing. (Had been led at least twice earlier that day!)

with Wayne Gordon, Pete Williams
Hidden 04/Dec/10 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Dec/10 Lead
Tony Lancashire 07/Feb/10 Lead
geoff b 14/Jan/10 2nd

A torchlight ascent after work: we met loads of mates leaving as we walked in! By now it was a ladder but still atmospheric & worth the effort. It fell down the next day.

with Jon Byrne
Hidden 14/Jan/10 2nd
frost 13/Jan/10 Solo O/S
LardClimber 10/Jan/10 2nd

Managed to get up early enough to be first on route that day :-)

with Dave Williams
eduardo 09/Jan/10 2nd O/S

Misha lead

with Misha, Mike D
Hidden 09/Jan/10 -
Hidden 09/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Pay Attention 09/Jan/10 2nd
with Misha
Misha 09/Jan/10 Lead O/S

Good climbing in a fantastic setting. Getting a bit chopped up but not a hookfest. Anyway, I didn't trust most of the hooks as somehow they didn't feel very secure, so largely did my own axe placements. On the other hand, the footholds were pretty good. The crux was a sustained steep section towards the bottom, after a short traverse left. Good climbing in a fantastic setting.

with Mike D, Paul, Ed
Hidden 09/Jan/10 -
MD 09/Jan/10 2nd
with Misha
ruaidh 09/Jan/10 2nd

Short n sharp. Some hookin, very cold hands.

with Steve
Hidden 09/Jan/10 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 08/Jan/10 Lead O/S
Rampikino 08/Jan/10 2nd

Steeper than it looks and not exactly fat. But some good hooking higher up. Great lead by Paul after I backed off.

AB1965 07/Jan/10 -
with Baggy Richards
stevebarratt 05/Jan/10 2nd O/S
with Rob Bryniarski
Hidden 22/Dec/09 AltLd dnf
Daniel Wicks 12/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Taylor
Hidden 12/Feb/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/09 2nd
robertporter 08/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Feb/09 2nd O/S
feilx 07/Feb/09 Lead dnf
with Floris & Mike
Hidden 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead
keith robo 02/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with James Gerrie
Martyn ?/Mar/06 2nd O/S
with Damien Jones
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 Lead O/S
pgac 20/Jul/97 Solo O/S
with jenks
Hidden 28/Jan/96 -
Nick Biven 11/Feb/86 2nd

Very, very lean and brittle conditions with no real protection, superb lead by Karl.

with Karl Strange
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
nniff ?/Feb/82 -
Tim Sparrow ?/Feb/82 -
with Ned
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Rob Davies 01/Feb/79 Lead

Final icefall wasn't well-frozen, so we did the rock route in crampons etc.

with Janet Cochrane (CUMC)
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High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 22
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set