100m.

Rockfax Description
I, 100m, 1 hour. An enjoyable option when the Northwest Ridge is busy, which it often is. There is minimal technical difficulty but the traverse across the top of the Chevalier Couloir is exposed and can feel delicate in icy conditions.
Approach - Walk down the steps from the top station of the Grands Montets cable car to reach the Col des Grands Montets. Climb the glacier easily, initially on the left, then continue on the left.
1) Cross the bergschrund and front point up to below the rocky outcrop.
2) Traverse under the rock to reach the 'demi-lune' (half moon) snow arĂȘte at the top of the Chevalier Couloir.
3) Cross the 'demi-lune' and scramble easily up the final rocks to the summit.
Descent - Descend by the Northwest Ridge. The crux wall can be abseiled if needs be. From the foot of the crux wall it is possible to avoid the exposed snow traverse under the rock buttress by continuing along the ridge crest and then making 2 x 15m abseils to reach the curved snow ridge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the Col des Montets go up easy slopes on the left. Go up steeper slopes to the right of the ridge proper and join it at the demi-lune finish to the Chevalier Couloir. Continue up to the summit rocks. Sections at 50/55 degrees.

Ticklists

Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 20 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
Pike 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd Icy slopes just above the bergschrund so Cristoph led a couple of pitches to the demi lune. Swung leads with Tom on the rocks, then down climbed the normal route. A bit slow so quite slushy on the way down.
Icy slopes just above the bergschrund so Cristoph led a couple of pitches to the demi lune. Swung leads with Tom on the rocks, then down climbed the normal route. A bit slow so quite slushy on the way down.
tom.organ 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 16 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 16 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 15 Jul, 2018 Lead
Theeni 11 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S In descent
In descent
alasdaircavaye 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Nice time on ice . Busy at top, decent off northwest ridge with some abbing.
with Jack Davis
Nice time on ice . Busy at top, decent off northwest ridge with some abbing.
with Jack Davis
Will Sherwood 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Perfect conditions except for some slushy snow on the way down, stashed crampons and axes for the second half of the climb where the snow section stops and the rock section starts.
Perfect conditions except for some slushy snow on the way down, stashed crampons and axes for the second half of the climb where the snow section stops and the rock section starts.
Alexander_Metcalfe 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
JMAB ?Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
James Rigby 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Conor
with Conor
AliceOstrich 25 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with George
with George
george.rich 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd
harrig-01 ?Jun, 2018 -
with Angus
with Angus
QuentinSu 15 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2017 2nd
Jordangask 16 Aug, 2017 Lead
c357 20 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
PatrickRT 24 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Descended this route after doing the northwest ridge interface. Started with2 dodgy abs.
with Kyle course, Ben course
Descended this route after doing the northwest ridge interface. Started with2 dodgy abs.
with Kyle course, Ben course
K_Maywood 24 Jun, 2017 - Used as descent
Used as descent
bljp 24 Jun, 2017 - Descended after NW Ridge
Descended after NW Ridge
A Jackson 18 May, 2017 -
Hidden 27 Feb, 2017 2nd
mBob8 17 Dec, 2016 Solo Used as descent. No abseil, downclimbing mostly fine just short sections of grey thin ice. Saw others climbing up this way and none of their screws went all the way in.
Used as descent. No abseil, downclimbing mostly fine just short sections of grey thin ice. Saw others climbing up this way and none of their screws went all the way in.
Christine 1 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Nick
with Nick
jamesb101 6 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Ascended via the east ridge and descended via the west ridge
Ascended via the east ridge and descended via the west ridge
Hidden 6 Sep, 2016 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd
anthonylewis 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd Soft like Mr Whippy in parts.
Soft like Mr Whippy in parts.
jayray 29 Jun, 2016 AltLd
JendeHoxar 1 Jan, 2016 - In lots of powder snow. Really good fun.
In lots of powder snow. Really good fun.
Hidden 1 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
Andy Lagan 29 Aug, 2015 Solo O/S
Hidden 23 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
Wayne.Gaudin 6 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Great weather. Great views. Abbed off the summit to avoid busy/tricky down climb.
with Louis
Great weather. Great views. Abbed off the summit to avoid busy/tricky down climb.
with Louis
Hidden 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Dom Goodwin 1 Aug, 2014 -
jonathanjacobs 1 Aug, 2014 -
Hidden 14 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Naomi Havercroft ?Jun, 2014 AltLd
with pffft
with pffft
chapmand ?Apr, 2014 -
ndraper1 ?Apr, 2014 - Toured/climbed to ski Chevalier Couloir.
with chapmand, Pete Houghton
Toured/climbed to ski Chevalier Couloir.
with chapmand, Pete Houghton
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Finn Curry 20 Aug, 2013 Lead
with John Wilshaw
with John Wilshaw
justaddpowder 16 Aug, 2013 Lead Got 1st lift to top lift station and geared up on the glacier. Moved together up slope of the ridge to the left, detouring up a short rock section. Hard snow up and no snow with bare ice up last section to the shoulder. lots of ice screws used. Quickly lead up 'crux' wall(3b) in crampons on shoulder and belayed Geoff and Ed up. Lots of traffic. Moved along ridge to summit and then abb'd on tat off ridge back down the way we climbed. 2 abbs to traverse across to 'ordinary' route dissent. not much snow on dissent route ether. 3512m (Summit) NE Ridge (I) AD (guide book)
Got 1st lift to top lift station and geared up on the glacier. Moved together up slope of the ridge to the left, detouring up a short rock section. Hard snow up and no snow with bare ice up last section to the shoulder. lots of ice screws used. Quickly lead up 'crux' wall(3b) in crampons on shoulder and belayed Geoff and Ed up. Lots of traffic. Moved along ridge to summit and then abb'd on tat off ridge back down the way we climbed. 2 abbs to traverse across to 'ordinary' route dissent. not much snow on dissent route ether. 3512m (Summit) NE Ridge (I) AD (guide book)
Hidden 9 Aug, 2013 Solo
Hidden 5 Aug, 2013 Lead
Hidden 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Nigel Bond 9 Jul, 2013 -
with Andy Blakely, Deirdre Collier
with Andy Blakely, Deirdre Collier
steve_gibbs 9 Jul, 2013 Solo O/S
Slick 6 Jul, 2013 -
Hidden 6 Jul, 2013 -
Willythegreat ??, 2013 -
Willythegreat ??, 2013 -
Hidden 30 Jul, 2012 -
jimmatthews 7 Jul, 2012 Lead
Hidden 7 Jul, 2012 2nd
masmith 7 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Michael Mason, James Matthews
with Michael Mason, James Matthews
ladymuck 7 Jul, 2012 2nd Descended after NW ridge, moved together in parts
Descended after NW ridge, moved together in parts
Hidden 7 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
mattfarr 6 Jul, 2012 2nd
with Al BMG
with Al BMG
bsavage 3 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf Made it to the bergshrund. Route very wind blown almost no snow with large Ice section, only had 2 ice screws and one rope. With poor weather moving in backed off route
with Jeremy Savage
Made it to the bergshrund. Route very wind blown almost no snow with large Ice section, only had 2 ice screws and one rope. With poor weather moving in backed off route
with Jeremy Savage
_hs_ ??, 2012 -
Binder 18 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Started up the steep face (good fun) and joined the ridge at the demi-lune. Stopped just shy of the final summit.
with Chris L
Started up the steep face (good fun) and joined the ridge at the demi-lune. Stopped just shy of the final summit.
with Chris L
HarryB 22 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Ollie
with Ollie
Hidden 22 Jul, 2011 AltLd
catemuir 22 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Will
with Will
Marky Mark ?Jul, 2011 - Did the right hand ridge last year so this year opted for the left. Much nicer route, less busy. Demi lune is a great feature, very photogenic. Descended down the normal route but abseiled off the shoulder to avoid the crowds on the lower ridge. Great day out with my buddy for his first alpine climb
Did the right hand ridge last year so this year opted for the left. Much nicer route, less busy. Demi lune is a great feature, very photogenic. Descended down the normal route but abseiled off the shoulder to avoid the crowds on the lower ridge. Great day out with my buddy for his first alpine climb
Harry Ellis 10 Sep, 2010 -
with Chris Cox
with Chris Cox
Hidden 14 Jul, 2010 Lead
Hidden 9 Jul, 2010 -
mark_chal 5 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Will
with Will
Hidden 5 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 Lead
davepc ?Jul, 2010 Lead
with sanni
with sanni
nickdonohue ?Apr, 2009 Lead Did this in ascent then normal route descent - a nice combination.
with Francois ?
Did this in ascent then normal route descent - a nice combination.
with Francois ?
Hidden 7 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
rd20 22 Aug, 2008 Lead
smolders 22 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead most of the descent
with rd20
Lead most of the descent
with rd20
Krumme ?Aug, 2008 -
garythomas ?Jul, 2008 -
with Mike Jepson
with Mike Jepson
galpinos 9 Sep, 2007 Lead
with Tim, Tim & Chris
with Tim, Tim & Chris
HimTiggins 9 Sep, 2007 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Aug, 2007 AltLd
RiPomc 17 Aug, 2007 AltLd
Cardi 14 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S In descent
with Sunil
In descent
with Sunil
Hidden 27 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
jl 23 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
lazyhopkins 23 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Jon Lynch
with Jon Lynch
stephmonks 7 Jul, 2007 -
with Jess Longbottom
with Jess Longbottom
Hidden 6 Jul, 2007 -
Mark Walter ?Jul, 2007 2nd O/S
with Wil and Dave
with Wil and Dave
Glyn ?Jul, 2007 -
with Trystan and Perry
with Trystan and Perry
wilchivs ?Jul, 2007 2nd rpt
with Dave Ripley and Mark Walter
with Dave Ripley and Mark Walter
tommytuffa ?Jul, 2007 - Part of Conville course guided
with FChris Fisher
Part of Conville course guided
with FChris Fisher
Hidden 10 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
kleinej ?Aug, 2006 Lead rpt
with James
with James
Hidden 14 Jul, 2006 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 -
dmoir ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Jon Harvey and Mike Maben
with Jon Harvey and Mike Maben
JonHarvey ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Great route, is now an AD in the new guidebooks. great steep ice section,, was out of condition when climbed during July '06 heatwave so was quite interesting!
with David Moir and Michael Maben
Great route, is now an AD in the new guidebooks. great steep ice section,, was out of condition when climbed during July '06 heatwave so was quite interesting!
with David Moir and Michael Maben
Marmot Catcher 25 Jun, 2006 AltLd
Somerset swede basher 20 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Rich Siddle
with Rich Siddle
Martyn ?Sep, 2005 AltLd rpt
with James Williams
with James Williams
kleinej ?Aug, 2005 Lead rpt
with Matt
with Matt
kleinej ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
paddygoodwin ?Aug, 2005 2nd
with kleinej
with kleinej
mountainmumoftwo ?Aug, 2005 -
manmike ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
with all the lads
with all the lads
Hidden 18 Jun, 2004 Solo
Hidden 28 Jul, 2002 AltLd
Andy Clarke 28 Jul, 2002 Lead Good climbing, with a lovely 'half-moon' snow crest. Done as the first half of E-W traverse. Recommended as a fine alternative to the crowded NW Ridge.
with JamesW
Good climbing, with a lovely 'half-moon' snow crest. Done as the first half of E-W traverse. Recommended as a fine alternative to the crowded NW Ridge.
with JamesW
Tubroos! ?Jul, 2002 Lead O/S Beautiful day out - we were abseiled over by a guided party, which was interesting to say the least. Not too crowded on top - walked back down to the valley rather than taking the lift.
with Kate Lloyd
Beautiful day out - we were abseiled over by a guided party, which was interesting to say the least. Not too crowded on top - walked back down to the valley rather than taking the lift.
with Kate Lloyd
Martyn ?Aug, 2001 Lead rpt
with James Williams
with James Williams
rlrs ?Sep, 2000 AltLd
Antony Mariani ?Sep, 2000 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
with rlrs
Martyn ?Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
with Rob Boylin
with Rob Boylin
Hidden 20 Jul, 1998 -
sebastien ?Jul, 1998 Lead
Martyn ?Aug, 1997 2nd O/S
with Rob Boylin
with Rob Boylin
KevinBull 30 Jul, 1996 -
Laramadness 29 Jul, 1996 -
with Steve Munton
with Steve Munton
bobelvedere ?Aug, 1995 Lead
Marti999 27 Jul, 1994 Solo
John Andrew Simpson ?Mar, 1994 2nd O/S
with Ian Roberts
with Ian Roberts
Pete Pozman 27 Jul, 1986 AltLd O/S
with John Byrne
with John Byrne
davemhart 29 Jul, 1984 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1976 AltLd
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Low PD
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Low PD-
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set