Rockfax Description
A fine route up the left-hand side of the buttress. Start below a right-facing groove with a capping roof.
1) 5c, 30m. Start with difficulty up the corner and continue until just before the roof. Pull around to the left then climb up on good holds before traversing back right to a good belay.
2) 5a, 10m. Climb up and right to finish on the arete. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up Phoenix but pass the overhang to the L and continue deviously up the steep wall above, eventually bearing R to finish on the arete.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Eduardo Martinez 08/Jul Lead O/S

In one pitch.

Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
James Beaumont 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Jack
Kipper-Phil Smith 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Cracking route and a lovely valley. Found one really hard move on the upper wall

with Roscoe
Duncan Campbell 14/May/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
jonleighton 31/Mar/16 Lead O/S

In a oner

Hidden 11/Aug/14 2nd
Duncan Campbell 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Bubbles backed off the start of Phoenix, so I did this. Brilliant climbing up the groove, to hard move onto the wall (I heel-hooked above my left hand!?) Above this interest is sustained mainly due to the lactic in your forearms, take it steady and you shouldn't fall off. Gear is ok on this upper section but some pieces not above suspicion. Overall hard E3 I thought - not sure whether easy 6a or just hard 5c. Really good climbing throughout.

with Bubbles
JulesV 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Shauna
Adam Booth 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S
dan gibson 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with alice thompson
Alice Thompson 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S
shed_hed 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Nice climb.

dswansonlow 25/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie
Hidden 25/Aug/11 Lead
dannyboy83 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/11 2nd dog
feilx 22/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 22/Jul/11 Lead O/S

One superb long pitch. Very good.

with KM
Alex Mason 31/May/11 Lead O/S

Absolutely stellar route. Bloody loved it. Can do in 1 pitch no problem.

Ram MkiV 31/May/11 Lead β

on al's gear. Good route, found entering the groove low down the hardest bit. Felt about 3 grades easier than astromoth

with Al
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Toby Dunn 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Sophie Whyte
soph ?/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 13/Jun/09 2nd
barni 29/May/09 AltLd
with Oli
alaan 27/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with Mat and Grant
GrantB 27/Sep/08 2nd
with Matt and Al
mattyork2 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Alaan and Grante
nige 20/Sep/08 Lead
with richard kirby
Rich Kirby 20/Sep/08 2nd
with Nige
Brown 14/Sep/08 2nd β
with Henry
climbergg 01/Jun/08 2nd
Tim M 01/Jun/08 Lead

Good climb, but probably more like E3 5c. The hardest move is actually at the start, shared with the E2 Phoenix!

with Emma
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Tom Phillips 19/Oct/07 2nd dog

tough start and hard move over roof (pulled on peg)

with fiend
Roget 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with jon
michael burrows 16/Jun/96 Lead O/S
with brian jones
Hidden 08/Jul/95 2nd
Hidden 08/Jul/95 Lead
Hidden 22/May/88 2nd β
jon 08/Aug/84 Lead
with H
Ian Jones ?/Jul/83 2nd O/S

It was given E4 in them days but we thought E3 was about right.

with Julian Taylor
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 11
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set