UKC

180m, 8 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 170m. A real classic and for good reason - this is a great route. The start is not obvious - look for a bolt 5m up.
1) 5b. Climb a series of overlaps to reach a shallow, right-leaning corner and follow this to a stance.
2) 5c. Head up the corner above and when this widens and becomes grassy, step left and follow a brilliant flake-corner to a comfortable stance on the left.
3) 5c. Make a few tricky steep moves off the belay then carry on up easier cracks and a corner to a beautifully positioned belay with a brilliant view of Fidel Fiasco.
4) 5c. Climb the cracked wall above then rock over onto the stunning slab above. Follow this to the top. A great pitch.
5) 5c. Step right off the belay and climb a short, strenuous chimney and then an amazing corner above.
Descent - Abseil down Majorette Thatcher. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Popular, established classic on the Red Pillar.

Cerdon/Piola Sep/1985.

Ticklists

Parois-de-legende , Escalades Choisies Mont-Blanc Aiguilles Rouges (60 Routes 4 to 6a+) , Alpine Dreamz , Road to the Walker Spur , Big Ideas , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range

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High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
Votes cast 9
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rebuffat-Pierre

Grade: TD- 6a+ ***
(Aiguille du Midi)

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