UKC

150m. After the main pitches, the gully forks giving 3 options - left-hand is usual route, buttress direct above looks good and Icefall at top of right-hand fork.

1) 60m of snow slope from top of main ice fall into gully belay on left at rocks.

2) Climb the steep icefall, starting up L before stepping R onto steep pillar for a few moves. Traverse R until and into an easier groove. Follow the groove which bends left, then over a small ice step and easy slopes to belay on large block spike at about 50m.

Easy ground to top/ridge

J Currie, G & P Robertson 14/Jan/2001.

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Route of Interest
Gamma Gully

Grade: V 5 ***
(Sgurr nan Clach Geala)

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