UKC

Restricted Access

A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the  following routes: 

Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).

Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:

     - Tell Your God To Ready For Blood

     - Chosstokovitch

     - Error Of Judgement

Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed  due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 05/05/2021  

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40m. Climb the wall right of Cripple Creek. Starting up a clean cut right facing corner at the far right of the Stigmata Buttress ledge. Step right off the ledge and get established in the groove. Climb to a ledge at 5m. Climb the wall above passing 3 in situ pegs to a small ledge at the apex of the wall. Step left and climb the crumbling wall passing a small overlap to a good horizontal break, teeter rightwards around the arête onto the slab and so the top.

N Bullock, G Desroy 02/Sep/2010.

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Craig Doris

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
North Wales Rock Cover
North Wales Rock (2006)
Ground Up
By Simon Panton
Lleyn Cover
Lleyn (2002)
Climbers' Club
By Dave Ferguson, Iwan Arfon Jones, Pat Littlejohn
Guidebook correction for this climb

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Route of Interest
Psyche 'n' Burn

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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