Restricted Access
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions normally apply from the route "Black & Blue" to the far south side of the crag ("Freshly Dug") inclusive - all routes between and including these routes are usually restricted from Feb 15th until July 15th. Look out for marker posts on the cliff base to confirm the restrictions. All routes on the right hand side of Nemesis wall sector and all of Dawn Buttress sector are affected by this restriction.
Rockfax Description
A fine technical pitch on good rock after an unsavoury start. Climb up easy but very loose ground to the base of the bulge, thread and pegs. Pull through the bulge with difficulty and embark on a brilliant sequence up the wall with a final testing move to reach a pocket and then the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A fantastic sustained, fingery climb with the crux move right at the top. Spoilt only by the slightly loose and easy start.
Pete Chadwick 2006.
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Guidebooks for Craig Arthur
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Devil's Haircut
Grade: 7c ***
(Pantymwyn (Devil's Gorge))