Restricted Access
The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
Start up the rib right of The Fly to where it steepens. Make a couple of moves up right to the break of The Spider, then climb direct to easier ground and a lower-off up and leftwards. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the rib right of the Fly until it steepness, nuts on the left. Climb the short steep wall, thread, and continue direct a little more boldly but on good holds to reach a bolt belay where the grassy ledges encroach.
Gary Gibson 28/Apr/2018.
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Safety Net
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Roaches Skyline)